
vincentmoy
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Everything posted by vincentmoy
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hunting while at 2000rpm crusing speeds?
vincentmoy replied to Phizinza's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hi there, It seems like the symptom of my 93 Loyale. I don't know what trans. you have but mine is an AT and the kickdown relay, according to the ECU, is going down south. I have the replacement part coming in tomorrow but I sold the car today... -
Hi all, Just wanna show my appreciation to all who have helped me/ gave me direction/tricks on how to change a timing belt! It was a full 9 hrs job we did 2 cam seals (no main seal), new pulleys and tensioner, WP and T-stat, oh and a block heater too:banana::banana: The car appear to run well:grin: Thank you again! Vincent
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I suppose double downshift means double clutch downshift? I don't know why but my trans doesn't really like going from 5th to 4th... When I'm going on the hwy and need to go to 4th for a turn, it blocks me. I suppose the syn is a goner (not entirely sure). So after I heard about the rev-match (I know it's not double clutch but you need to rev match when you downshift anyways) and it seems to help a bit... I just been doing it for a week and I think I get 5th to 4th down pretty good... 4th to 3rd is ok... 3rd to 2nd... ehh... wear your seat belt:grin:
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Thank you for all the replies... I understand it's gonna hurt the car a bit until I get it right. I just don't know how hard it will hurt them cause I don't wanna destroy my car any time soon (yup... college student). I usually pretty gentle with my car but I want to learn and make driving more fun. That's why I go for a stick.:banana:
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Extra rev? Isn't that I need to do (rev match) all the time when I need to double clutch downshift? Upshifting seems to be a lot easier but downshifting seems to take a lot of work esp. I got some tfc on the road... not good for practice and I can't seems to find a road that has less tfc and straight. Oh well
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I am learning how to do double clutch down shift (usually just 1 gear down) so I try to blip the Eng to 2500 to 3k. I know it's gonna be hard on some components but I would like to know what... cause if it's gonna make they last half their life I might just as well wait till I'm rich and famous to learn how to do it. Thanks all! Vincent
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I might as well... Got to wait till I have $$ first... But thanks! By the way, how do I get access to the relay? How to I remove the glove box and how do I know where is the relay? Vincent
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No, the Eng won't rev up much neither. The techo will drop when I'm traveling @ around 45 mph. It shift normal in 1st and 2nd, the rpm drop only happen in 3rd @ around 45mph. Even you floor the gas it still won't accelerate, but if you let go a little it will accelerate again.... do you get what I mean?:-\ Vincent
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here it is http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95778
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I have bought it up before and here's the link for the problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94359 I am wondering if a clogged cat will allows my car rev to 5k. A friend of mine helped me to diagnose the car and he rev the car to 5k and everything seems fine. Only when it's in gear it will do the hiccup thing... I'm really puzzled. I have changed the fuel filter and pcv valve with no avail. Thank you all! Vincent
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Hi all, finally got the TDC from my 93 Loyale AT w/ 133k mi. It is showing 45 (if I read it correctly - 4 long blink with 5 short blink, then repeat itself over and over). I looked it up from chilton and the USMB and it is something related to the kickdown control relay - continuously in ON/OFF position. What is that? That doesn't seems to help me with my problem about my high speed perf. Anyone has idea? Thanks! Vincent
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How much you guys think it worth?
vincentmoy replied to vincentmoy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I tried that already. I have the fuel filter and PCV replaced... as well as a drive belt which has a big crack on it :S But of no avail. I check the spark and they seems to be in good shape, no color, no oil, gap is fine. I need to somehow get the cel code but it's so darn cold out so I may just wait till it's a little warmer first. By the way, I called a guy and he said my car worth at most $300.... he's a mechanic tho. Anyways... we'll see Vincent -
I have a 93 Loyale with 133k on it, AT. Car acts weird @ hi spd. It will lost performance @ around 45 mph and after I let go the gas just a little it will go again. So it feel like doing some hiccups. I'm guessing it's the exhaust. Oil leak I need to put 1 qt in for about 400 mi in the summer and about 800 mi/ qt in winter. I'm looking for $1k out of it. Do you guys thinks it's fair? Vincent
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Well... plan changed as my friend has a problem with his car so he couldn't help me today :banghead: I have all 2 smooth pulleys, 1 tooth pulley, tensioner, t-stat, as well as water pump and some seals ready to get in. They're all new and oem, and a lot of $$ :-\ Now I only need a garage and tools to put them in. I'm praying that the car won't act up before next week, I am tight on $$ and can't afford anything major now:( Now everytime I start my car cold, there is a low pitch squeaking noise coming out the eng bay for a sec or 2. My friend said it sounds like from one of the pulleys... I wish it's just from the drive belt area and not the timing... I have this car for about a mo. and that's the only major concern of mine. Other than that this is a fabulous car:cool:
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Sorry... it's 98 Imp OBS with EJ22 in it. I know it is an interference so no room for errors:-\ I've been reading threads after threads after threads on timing belt change here and over NASIOC. Tons of info on how to take them apart:) and now I'm thinking on how to put them back together. When I tighten the crank bolt can I use the 5th gear with brakes on method? Thanks
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Hi guys, Finally my friend and I are going to tickle the timing belt for the first time (both of us) tomorrow. Really excited and anxious about it cause I have NO extra for another Eng... Anyways, I have heard people saying to rotate the crank pulley to line up the timing mark and hand rotate the pulley to make sure no contact is made after the new belt is on. I am wondering do I do that in neutral (I have a 5MT) and with e-brake off? I know if I need to take the crank bolt off I need to pop it in 5th and e-brake/brake on. I figure that would lock the crank tight but when I need to turn it I need to do the opposite. Am I getting it right? Thank you so much. You guys have been really helpful! Vincent
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Thank you for all your responses. I think I have a basic idea on how to change timing belt part. On the other hand, I don't have much clue on how to replace the seal. I heard it is a PITA job. Anyways, seems like I need to get the camshaft sprocket holder (499207100) from http://subaru.spx.com/ or http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=3555&rsku=0 which one is better? How do I get the old seal out and put the new one in? Thanks Vincent