Txakura

I have read a lot of the old threads on getting the axles to pop off the dif. A few months back I wanted to put my locked rear end in place but couldn't get the axles off of the stubs... I ran out of time and ended up bolting everything back in place and re-hanging the same dif. I had thought after reading up on it, that I may not have had it dropped as far down as I could have and that might have limited my options a bit... well yesterday I tried again and let me just say that getting the pins out is no problem with a pin die on a rivet gun... you can tap them out pretty easily - I have air tools. I used a punch die, 'c' die and an 'elephants foot' to work around the cup and after about 45 minutes of swearing and rolling in my gravel I MAY have gotten one to move about 1/64th of an inch but the damn rust on the splines killed me again, I had it all a mile in the air and I'm thinking of taking it to my favorite shop and having them get those miserable splined rat &^%*$%^% off and switch it for me why even have the retainer pins at all, seems to me those jerks aren't going anywhere :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: -btw- I really had to fight the urge to cut my axles in half and just replace the damn things

damn that's right

I don't know about "mad" subi skills thank you for posting a dollar amount

LMAO my favorite part is the thousand dollar studs, that's pretty damn funny GD !!! I'm not expecting 200 hp from an ea82T, nor do I wish to commit to building an orphan engine for the shear vicarious thrill of it anyone got a dollar figure? what's a reasonable offer for an 'interim engine' like this engine-in-a-box? this is a couple of hundred dollar bolt in, with a freshened block, new heads, spider intake, turbo and complete exhaust... but I have no idea what a 'fair' price for both of us would be

-doch- yeah that the engine he had, had the dual port heads

does it look like this?

pad? hmm, pretty sure the front and rear are the same, cheaper to make 1 part than 2 do you mean that when everything is seated in place it sits up too high all the way around? I had thought you were not getting the clasps to slip over the door handle pin and it was holding it too high above the door panel maybe you better get a pic or two

see, that confuses me. the XT 4 is rated at less power than my SPFI, according to my notoriously inaccurate book... if there is any gain to be had, wouldn't putting the intake, which is potentially for sale seperately, on my healthy SPFI offer some advantage?

The gentleman in question is a factory Subaru mechanic, pretty sure he's up to speed on proper technique, he was rebuilding an EJ25 at the dealership that was covered under the power train warranty (ate the #1 rod bearing) - (another 'great' engine) in short, he came across as technical and very professional the deal is quite simple, and very common to all of us - just too many projects, he decided to put the effort into something else and let the car go, he was going to sell the whole car but I mentioned that I might be interested in parts of it and that he didn't need to put it together just to sell it... (not sure he uses the USMB, but he has a lot of parts he's clearing out... I would like to see him post them here - more on that later) so... I agree on the melting down and re-casting of the block as something more useful... but really, what could I offer that isn't too low or too high? this might be in my price range right now, instead of saving for a looooong time to build a proper EJ and I'm already working on my ea82 every day... ha ha

this is so far over my head I just had to post this to say this was so far over my head doing some serious cutting edge retro-research down under, please keep us posted with some details and maybe pics of this car, it sounds very interesting

brb, I'll go pull one of mine and make some crappy cell pics to show the install... it just has a little trick to pop them in, think you're okay, just getting caught under the lock lever... sit tight **** ok, every once in a while my phone software decides to not communicate with the phone - this is one of those times it has to seat on the handle pin before it seats on the front edge slide it around the handle down to the closed (locked) lock lever, push gently in with your thumb to get the cup under the lock lever, open the door handle and get the two split clasps on the trim cup to seat on the door handle pin, top and bottom, push on the forward edge of the cup and it should snap in place up front mine have made the trip too many times, I have added some short screws to hold it from popping loose up front I'll post some pics when my effing software can connect to the phone

they should be the same, ea82... got a pic of 'doesn't fit'? run them down the door handle with the lock in the open position till it stops, then close the lock and slide the cup in place while it's closing - hard to slide them underneath

take off the homemade glass pack, and see if the problem still exists with open exhaust (don't get too rowdy and get a ticket)

interesting

loose baffle in the catalytic converter blocking the flow?

I use the 'High Mileage' Castrol 10-40 (also non synthetic, green bottle), it has some seal conditioners that actually seem to help stop weepy seals of which there are about 28 on the grEAsy82

yeah the suckability has been well established but $$$

deer, birds and pedestrians too...

it has a certain MAD MAX appeal, I dig it - definitely makes it look like you mean serious business

local Subaru dealer mechanic has an ea82T long block with fresh heads, all new gaskets and .5mm os pistons... plus an xt spider intake, the complete exhaust and turbo package... so, I could build a pretty fresh turbo... ea82t with the possibility of mounting an intercooler... and I do have 2) double row steel radiators laying around... hmmm on the one hand, all that effort should go into an ej swap... on the other, what would be a fair offer to this guy - I really really hate price games he flipped out the token 'what's it worth to you?' b.s. $1.95 seems low - so I didn't offer that I mean a few hundred bucks for this, and it amuses me right up until it hand grenades... or much longer delayed gratification and an ej... vaguely, somewhere down the road?

me too

it can

I've used it too, for close tolerance bolts, bushings and plain bearings. I agree with GD. I wouldn't use it in this case, a deep freeze is good enough for these guys.

this is kind of moot, the poster posted that long enough to hear yes, 'but not very well', offered the engine to anyone that wanted it, gave it to some one off line then disappeared dead thread

1986 300E (gas) mpfi so I got called to look at a dead Mercedes, but after it sat overnight it fired right up then died again 2 days later it seems like, there is a fuel pressure regulator that is not passing fuel to the distribution manifold there is the inlet from the pump, a line to the fuel distribution block, a small return line and a vacuum line to the air cleaner housing I THINK the return line is for any fuel in the regulator when the throttle is snapped shut or demand for fuel drops off - it has somewhere to go and does not keep the valve in the regulator open I THINK the small 'vacuum line' is actually for any leakage past the spool valve seals, not to move the valve - more of an emissions thing and it creates a small negative pressure on the opposite side of the valve here's the kicker, Mr.Bosch fuel regulator is $900 !!! the next logical step is to check the fuel pressure being supplied to the regulator - if the pump is weak it wouldn't unseat the valve and allow fuel to flow to the manifold - hence no fuel getting past the regulator but it occured to me I have an extra Subaru FI fuel pump... is the world ready for a Mercedes GL Wagon hybrid?