Txakura

ooo, maybe I can play this year

I always thought those helped in start up by drawing off the easily ignitable fumes. Am I mistaken?

This is good to know. This is a whole new world of hurt for me and I am learning what I can here first. Later I will blow up my ej22 and blame GD for giving me the idea. If I had a secret desire to burp flames on my shifting like the rally Lancias I grew up watching, does that make me a 'boy racer'? As I'm pushing middle aged, I should probably get that squared away so I at least know where I stand in the hierarchy. Too OT?

I think it's fair to ask a turbo related question in a turbo thread, but it may wrinkle a few the wrong way to post a Racing Mustang question on a late 1980's Subaru board. Surely there is a Mustang board that may be an exact fit for what you're talking about? WTF is a "v24 x trim"? That is a good example of the language differences between what is here, and what may make some sense somewhere else. Try the 'non soob' vehicle area on this board, or google anything Mustang. I am hoping that if I am polite, you will not get flame broiled beyond recognition and go to the XJ board where the trolls will eat you alive.

whats the spec for an EJ 22?

I don't think I will magically lose any output from the engine but the inertia of the rotating mass will be different. A heavier flywheel at the same rpm connecting and transmitting more force on initial engagement sounds, intuitively, like it would be better for 4wd applications. Following the adventures on this board, I have decided my 4wd time is 'light duty'. My daily driving has shifted from 60% gravel, snow and mud to less than 1%. (I'm also driving 12 miles per day now, as opposed to 120 last April, and 65 the rest of the year) This is a mod I've always wanted to try and with my grEAsy82 engine coming out fairly soon, this is a good opportunity to work the flywheel, see what that does on the same engine, before going to the ej22. Great input from the crew, believe it or not, hanging out on the XJ board helped me in the decision to sell my XJ. Hanging out here makes me think I will always have a Suub in the fleet.

ah... so this is where a well balanced engine definitely comes into play also. This begs follow ups, this side of warping, what's nuts? what appreciable difference will this actually make? has anyone else done this? surely someone must have tried it...

I stopped by the local machine shop today to see what their shop rate for resurfacing my (ea82) flywheel would be. Good guys, small shop. Re-surfacing is no prob, $42 or some such... anyway... I am getting ready for an (eventual but pretty damn soon) ej 22. I like the idea of using a lighter flywheel for faster throttle response, but don't want to lose too much torque. I will use my 4wd, but I am not likely to get as far out as some of the really dedicated guys here. I'm more in the gravel, on logging roads, in the snow etc etc but not breaking a new trail. Not the really gnarly rocker panel bashing stuff (which I wholeheartedly endorse and approve of). :cool: ok, so long build up, but I figured the obvious first reply was 'well what are you going to use it for'? some 4wd, mainly gravel What do you guys think is a middle ground on flywheel machining? Losing 5% or 10% mass for quicker throttle response versus losing too much mass and the torque going out the window with it. Lots of great minds here, this should be interesting

mine pees on the crossmember and keeps the front cat from rusting it smells good when you come to a stop, no word yet on whether I can change my license plate to 'Get-O'...

the mirrors cause a lot of drag... no easy solution there (still laughing at the barn joke)

this is kind of a weird idea, but could you cut a notch in the heater box and then close it with plastic flat stock? seems to me it'd just be the top corner of the radio hitting, and a cable dremel would let you reach in there... really don't know how much room there is to play, but maybe some brave soul could carefully trim a peek a boo slot and see how much room there is metal tape might close it up too.. just an idea

post the pin out if you can, that might be useful for other folks

well wire away if it makes you feel better, but with that logic I'm not sure where you'd stop, lug nuts? steering column bolts? brake hardware? unless you're racing it seems like overkill

how is that oil drain more prone to failure than any other oil drain bolt?

you can buy a bolt jig that holds them and make your own, unlike nukes, subs and planes the stresses here are a lot less http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/drillingjig.php http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SAFETYWIRE but why would you want to?

Above all it's a 20 year old car, and you can't assume anything was done to take care of it - just like any other car. The 4wd could be as lame as a switch, or something more involved. If the price is low enough, you can put up with some repairs... really it's the same basics as anything else, using oil? leaking oil? yada yada

Like Tom I've used 'miles of the stuff' as an aircraft mechanic, but seldom see the need to wire anything on a car. ( Except those throw out bearing retainer clips )

this is at idle it's running rich? I'm assuming that the choke is clean and functioning after the rebuild and the timing and idle are at the spec my Peterson's 'Big Book of Auto Repair Complete Specs on American Cars 1967-1983' says that there are two factory sealed plugs in the throttle plate to prevent tampering with the idle mixture screws. Is that the case? Are there any emissions on this? if you can get to the idle mixture screws it says backing them out is richer. there is a procedure, but I'll wait to hear back. if you can get to them, and get them out, shoot some carb cleaner through the idle passges I've got some specs for the Rochester M4MC, M4MCA, M4MEA and general stuff for the 4bbl (4MV). I got tables and tables, but no metering rod lengths. The only jet sizes shown are for 1969-70 carbs, (.076 and .078 (both primary diameters depending on engine)) probably not useful info... see if you can find any numbers on it, I might be able to run some stuff down, we have a lot of old tech still on the road here

I could buy that WAG. Very reasonable. It can't do much for the rear main seal but it can keep most oil from a seal failure out of the bellhousing. (-btw- I did change the rear main when the engine was out).

yes, my GM's had the covers... but even my 1982 351 F-250XLT had nothing like this, so I'm not sure if it's a carry over from the original 6 cylinder, which does not belong on the 8, or if it is something that needs to be there manual is not helping, going to check on line parts catalogs and see what it lists for the 8 cylinder dust/inspection cover (if anything) man I tell you, this one was not a lot of fun, it got so bad I had to go to two Ford dealerships with a digital camera and talk them into letting me take pics under the hood of some older trucks on their lot it's like getting handed a box of watch parts when you haven't seen a watch, then trying to build it

rtm, and it barely mentions it, it's an 'engine cover plate' that was supposed to go on before the flywheel is bolted to the crank... hmmm not sure what to do; a) ignore it modify it to act as a bell housing shim c) pull the whole damn thing out, remove the clutch, flywheel and do it all over again d) drink heavily and pretend I didn't work on it (guess that's just option 'a' restated)

Nice one, I miss having a v-8. I'd keep the rock guard/bug shield... but that's just me, hate that sand blasting we get here.

I got sucked into helping to put an (89) 351 into an (88) F250 that came with a 300 (6). After finishing most of the work down below I went hunting for the inspection cover for the flywheel. Lo' and behold the original 6 cylinder cover is actually a plate that has an opening for the crank, with a seal that presses against the rear main, and the transmission bolts pass through it. It isn't the half moon dust cover I'm used to (351 w/ c-6, 4.0L Cherokee AX15, '90 Loyale, 87 GL and so on) ok, so. Can I cut it in half and use it to cover the flywheel, or does it need to be in there to space the clutch another .060" from the flywheel? Just about everything is hooked up, I'd rather not pull the engine. perhaps someone has a 351 and TOD 4 with OD and they can tell me what their cover is, a half moon or full shield. Or maybe someone has seen this before.

Good lord, how long does it take to hack saw through a head?

oh lord GD don't tell me that... yet another way for me to screw things up