Txakura

I am far from the guru... but pulling these engines isn't THAT bad. I'm probably not near as fast as half these guys but I make up for it when the engine is out it because it sooo much easier to work on. It's truly a 6 in one, half dozen in the other deal depending on your abilities. I'd leave it in IF I needed it asap to be back on the road, or IF I had other major work planned for later and it was going to come out for something else. If it ISN'T your daily driver, (DD) then it would be a good time to check the timing belts, replace the pan gasket and rear main etc etc with the engine out.

I put Xt seats in my 90 loyale without swapping seat tracks or messing with the height adjust. ????????? I'm sure he'll need to re use the original tracks, and yes, please post some pics - i'd like to see it

very cool, checked out the vid for the sound, love the tires and the mods... really like the front bumper too was going to ask about the control arm mods - but you had the pics of that those arms like to twist don't they? I've ordered my second one from 1st Subaru I may have to come visit some day, my folks live not too far from you and it'd be fun to walk around and BS in your project yard

overnight, I could have cut it short and used a conversion coating once the majority was off but wanted to see how far it would go

that's just insane, I'm so sorry, what a drag :-\ I wonder if that paint might get me out of speeding tickets? you seem to have invented 'magnetic stealth paint' ; it renders the car invisible but attracts random weird objects side story, speaking of random weird crap; One night I had to change out a city transit bus because one of our buses had been hit by a parked car. It was an interesting scene when I rolled up, the parked car had been on a very steep icy driveway. As the city bus rumbled by it had somehow caused the car to start sliding and it slid backwards down the drive into the street, causing a pretty fair amount of damage at the rear passenger door on the bus and from the rear body panel to the engine access cover. The car was severly damaged, locked, in gear with the brake still set. As I was admiring the scene waiting for the cops to finish figuring out how to report that an unoccupied parked car had struck a moving bus the car's owner drove up with a friend. The cops could hardly keep a straight face. It was quite a few minutes before I was able to take the damaged bus back to the garage and park it for the night. Apparently it got even better when the transit manager had to explain it to the mayor and the city council. He said he had to repeat himself often. I guess the insurance company was also hard of hearing.

It even cleaned the threads of the bolt holes great links from the crew 'splained it all, convert the baking soda to soda ash by cooking it in the oven, and DO NOT use any stainless steel - it'll create hexavalent chromium - lethal and hella toxic to dump down the drain couldn't believe the results

umm, my Korean is pretty rusty, what do I click on above the beefcake studs to download that? ok, found the language bar and switched to english... hey that does look sharp and I think Numbchux will appreciate that you left his name on every page, even the nice title page with the suubie logo nice job, well done

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107244 now how do I dip the rest of my car?

Thank you WRX2FFU for posting this, this is the coolest shop trick. I got amazing results and this is a great tool to have in the inventory of old school tricks.

Left everything boiling like mad, hoping the shop is still there tomorrow :-\ I realized today an old cooler would make a nice tub for this, built in drain to rinse it out and all plastic... handles for moving and a lid for storage. wanna hear something funny? some guy's web site had his before and after... he couldn't figure out why his part was rustier than before he dipped it if you read his text, he connected the positive to the part to be cleaned - he doubled his crud

I just got my Subaru knuckles back from the hot tank. I have the rusty parts wired for tomorrow. I'm baking soda at 300 Fahrenheit for an hour to convert it as per the directions on that website. Tomorrow I'll mix the solution and put a battery charger to it and put up some before and after photos. This is waaay cool.

my earlier head bashing was over the roundy roundy vocab test, nothing you said is it the right number for the round bushing at the end of the sway bar? let me know if it is the right part, mine are fried

http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm

Monstaru's point is that you'll just have to measure it, fastest and easiest way to figure what you actually have.

for the 'fulcrum bushing' as described by the above posting, yes but the sway bar linkages and bushings he and I both need? the end bits?

I have been able to download FSM with bit torrent clients.

My confusion is this; there are lots of sources for the bar to frame bushing, but I have not seen listings for the end of the bar to control arm linkage and bushing. Anyone?

What he said, it is an old thread, but a fair question. I'm looking at material now, and would rather not re-invent the wheel, so to speak.

Oh I found them cheaper... but decided to stay with a 'known' and well marked. Only time they'll ever be changed.

I'm not far from you, why can't you use it on your ej? as in, can I use it on my swap?

I am an A&P and was a Master Mechanic... there are degrees of A&P and I think you are referring to small shops or T Hanger environments. It's a different world of thinking, the consequences of any failure are high and their is no statute of limitations on the work performed. I am still liable for any work I performed on hundreds of aircraft from a variety of carriers... that being said, it's unlikely you'd find an A&P that wants to deal with someone else's greasy car problems. A small shop may take the work if they really had nothing better to do, but I think that'd be the exception, and not the rule and I'd wonder why they were taking car work

oh jeez, no, my town is all of 288 people, Spokane, WA probably has something 90 minutes north good ag shop in Moscow, ID, that could have ordered them for me, maybe nothing I'm aware of in Pullman, WA the irony here is that it's easier to buy things from my living room than to find them locally, since it took a little digging to find them I had thought they were harder to find - the skewed view from here, you know, gave me a false impression well, anyway, it'll show up in search now and if someone wants them they can link to 'em

Good Lord this thread hit a nerve in so many of the replies. There is a larger issue here in that there has been a sustained attack on skilled labor for a long time and the very labor performing the work is considered an 'expense' to be regulated. How many kids go to trade school? What is considered a 'prestigious' career? It makes me very PO'ed when I think about it, and it's everywhere, in every field. I worked for a company that hit a billion dollar milestone three years early, their response was to gradually reduce benefits over a five year period, lower the entry level wages, and create new labor categories that paid less at the top of the scale than the previous categories. I don't think I'm being OT, I'm explaining what I think is part of the problem.

I had to look a bit to find the sealed front wheel bearings labeled clearly as being 'C3', VXB has some from China without being clear as to whether they are 'C3' or not. They might be fine... but, I only want to change these once. I mention VXB because they Google up very quickly However, this equipment company had them and I ordered mine from them. ($16.88 ea, about $10 ups ground) http://www.dnequipment.com/eMerchantPro/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=42028 perhaps on their equipment listings they should add Subarus