Txakura

what about a remote starter switch? not energizing the pump or ignition, 5 seconds to clip on

smoke was coming out the dipstick tube? has oil surfaced in the coolant? is there coolant in the oil?

now you're just confusing the hell out of me, we went from near the left headlight, the passenger fender to the firewall, in front of the rad and the right side to the a/c? oh yeah and the fusible links I'll re-read this 5 times and go pop my hood and look for stuff, getting coffeed up right now

I was more worried about durability and cooling capacity when it gets hot this summer (40C) and I'm using the air conditioning. It does seem cooler, (never goes above 1/4 scale) and rock stable, but that is also because the pretty looking single row was bad... any radiator change would have been an improvement. It's my understanding the turbo really needs, HAS to have the twin row. The single is a recipe for disaster.

assuming the maf is obvious, could be the sensor from the rad, and the electric fan connector would be over there too... real close to the headlight, that would make sense it went back to the power side because of the fan's draw

thought there might be a show, I've never had any luck re-torquing a head, but I have been desperate enough to try it twice... guess some other folks are holding back, or too busy in the nice weather to reply with a scientifical post

could be cruise control, take a pic, I'll pop my hood and find 'em

I like this too, my RX/RS would both look good cleaned up. Funny, when you started this thread I didn't have the RX, now I can see EXACTLY what my car would look like if I did the same thing. Good job, looks really clean that way.

It seems to good to be true, and graphite? but... I wonder if I should snag one now... ahead of time.

I'd be happy to jump in a convoy from Idaho/Spokidoki, I am brat-less but I can carry the token coupe award

yes, how is that going? I've been watching DW-TV and getting the news from that, pretty amazing the impact on air travel. But, that's in the air, what's going on locally?

ok I have to ask, what if the EA71 pistons went in an EA82? (which started at 9.5:1?)

it's right next to the 'hypothetical EJ 22', and if I had titled this anything else I doubt I'd have gotten so many answers so fast but seriously, great input from all are their any internal differences? cam, heads... yadda yadda?

RS? what? Turbo Loyale Wagon or a 3 dr RS coupe? Aww man don't kill a coupe...

Ok, so I have prowled around a bit but haven't seen anything concrete on a 'JDM ea82T'. Assuming this unicorn exists, what, if any, differences are there between it and it's US counterpart? And how would you tell them apart?

what about water injection? kind of assuming this isn't a DD... those pistons would be really tempting, but it'd be 92 octane or higher for sure

pull it and either a) blow it out as best you can and get it completely dry or immerse it in a bath of isopropyl alcohol and blow it out and let it dry buy a can of contact cleaner spray and use it to dry any connectors that got wet pull your spark plugs and turn the engine over to pump water from the cylinders, and hope you didnt bend your rods when you water locked the engine you're leaving out a lot of details and I can't believe there's no pic for such an awesome 'oops' moment

Holy Crap

the twin row I have are all metal, the single I have seen use plastic

Funny, I'm taking out some of the 'really good ' mods that someone else put in an RX and going back to stock.

The Loyale seats are a simple four point attach, but the rails are level between the two sides.

MY ea82T did exactly this when my throttle position sensor, TPS, was out of adjustment. I cannot speak for the EJ, but the problem sounds identical. In my case, I loosened the screws holding the TPS just enough to slide it one way then the other until I found the right place to 1) idle correctly (sliding one way made the idle drop, another made it increase) and 2) road test until the stumble was gone. Could this be similar on the EJ?

bump