Txakura

That is pretty cool.

I can handle the hood, exterior and upholstery, not the floor mat's lighter green. The doors are... really odd on that. I do like seeing what can be done and wouldn't knock the guy for something that comes down to taste. Not entirely my thing, but if he did all the work himself, it's cool to see it. It's definitely one of a kind.

I'll take that A/C stuff. Shoot me a PM, your's is not enabled.

that's odd, maybe they added it later, the 88 does not appear to have it, but the 90 does...

One came std in my 90 RS (Leone) s/r 5 1.8 spfi, std in the 88 RX and I pulled one out of an '87 GL Wagon with a s/r 5 with a 1.8 spfi... I didn't think they were any big deal until I came here, then read that they were not entirely common.

maybe it has Washington plates?

Swapped stereos, put a decent one in the RS and put an okay one in the RX. SO, I have tunes -again- .

naw naw, wasn't advocating that... you just asked if anyone had it happen, yes, but it wasn't something I ever resolved peep thought I was nuts, or smokin'... or both maybe someone will have some intelligent comments, not trying to waste your time but, what did the car do? when all this was going on?

Oh, I had a second ecu, put it in watched it act wonky too... no idea wth that was all about.

Yes. I have had my CEL flash codes, and was promptly told they don't do that. And yet, I read somewhere, long gone, that it can. Also unable to verify that either. Unfortunately, after driving around for a week with a video capable cell, I was unable to catch it in the act and prove it. That was in a '90 spfi. Later I replaced the engine, for a long list of reasons, and all that went away. Am I recommending you change your engine to fix possible codes. NO. So, yeah, I believe that it may have been doing something. Keep some scratch paper handy, the next time it does it, jot down the flashes and see if it matches any known code. Did the car do anything obvious? Or was it just messing with you to see if you were paying attention?

Yah, my bad Turbone. I worded it poorly. Thanks for the heads up on the connector body itself, I have two gm terminal pins on it right now - but it can't stay that way. Excellent info, thanks. edit ***Double point score, the Bosch EV1 connector is $3.25 ! *** http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/942 thanks keppelk!

Thought Bill traced his fire to loose lug nuts on the right front?

what is the car it came from?

part of the problem is that I keep expecting things to be worse than they are, that everything is broken until proven trustworthy - but I think you hit it on the head Brian, totally 'worst casing' everything... and doing the newbish thing, where a little knowledge (FSM) spins weird directions and elaborate theories but, at the end of the day, it's that first leap that puts it in focus and makes for the steepest part of the learning curve and now the idle, water pump, and rad are squared away, I can work on foo-foo like some tunes and some detailing

it's all in the car... that hood looks great with that very very clean modernized car but if that was on my RX it would be laughable because the rest of the car would not pull it off

Ok. I got the suggestion that I go to the TPS, loosen the screws and slide it while listening to the idle. I went one way and she sped up, another and it dropped. It dropped about 500 rpm. I twiddled with the idle speed screw and shed another 250 rpm. I road tested it and found that I had made a new problem with surging, so I played with it again and it smoothed out on the road and I have a sane idle. So thanks to everyone that chipped in, while I made this a lot harder than it had to be I connected the green clips and double checked the timing, pulled the air intake and cleaned all the pcv residue out of it and cleaned the MAF while I was there. It seems I have a smoothly running happy car

Yep, you nailed it. I was able to look under the hood of another car and my solenoids are missing. Which makes me wonder how the vacuum is connected right now. (?) Or why the ecu isn't throwing a fit because they are gone (?)

%$#@$#$#%^&*(* it didn't do anything to pinch it off, the idle screw is still run all the way in too... 1750 warm, all the time guess I'll check the TPS and see what it's doing, the FSM has good info on that, maybe call Subaru dealer shop and see if they have any free words of advice... (one of the mechanics has an ea82t coupe) there is still that stop screw and lock nut for the throttle bellcrank, but adjusting that seems like treating the symptom and not the cause (assuming the PO hasn't tampered with that) Oy Vey.

yepper, we're going to squish it today after it gets good and warmed on the way to work - got my fingers crossed

accel cable is not holding it open, checked that idle screw does nothing all the way in, nor backed off many turns if it were carbbed I'd say it was getting it's air somewhere else I went through a whole can of carb spray and found nothing at the throttle body, or the intake manifold (all the plugs are uniform too) or any hose connection, pcv or vacuum looking at the diagram in the FSM (from the above post), the screw all the way in should have restricted the air flow - but it isn't even in the game, something else is going on so... AAV sticking open? guess I could disconnect it and cap everything when the engine is hot and see what it does no bites on the connectors?

Thank you, I will read some more. I was surprised it wasn't a simple vacuum leak or the CTS. It acts like it is staying on the fast idle circuit. Otherwise it runs very well.

nope, thats the cool part... that would almost make sense one's a 'T', the other is two horizontal blades and ends near the AAV the other (T) was near the air inlet at the turbo, intertwined with the other stuff, cts lead etc - heading to nowhere there are several problems here 1) me, I have never had one of these and I have no manual 2) the PO did... things... that aren't terribly clear 3) this is not the original engine, but a JDM (allegedly) does that mean it has that engine harness? or he swapped the one he had? no idea man I have searched an read until my eyes have bled, it wants to run fast and ALSO has these mystery wires - they may have nothing to do with it about to just turn the damn idle down and call it good, except none of the idle screw locations I have read seem to be there is it the idle stop behind the dash pot on the passenger side facing the car, with the lock nut? could this be from the PO's home made 'cold air induction'? so many questions, about to just take the damn thing to Subaru and give it to the last ea82T mechanic in Idaho (George)

88 RX ea82T got an idle that won't co-operate, too high, almost like the car doesn't think it's ever warmed up... stone cold goes to fast idle, at about 2200, maybe 2500, drops to 1750 when hot no vacuum leaks found, cts values are good, cts connection is good (fixed) car runs smoothly, no cel, no codes, timing seems right, aav ohms and voltage are good, just really wants to run, at 1750 warm ???? then while I'm poking around I find these two connectors, both hot with the key on, the larger one at 8+ volts, the smaller one near the AAV at 3+ volts what are they?

That should not have been moved, I'm not looking to buy the pigtail, I'm wondering how I can fix a broken CTS connector on an ea82T. Should I solder to the CTS pin directly and cut in new wire to the harness? cut one form another car? are the SPFI and MPFI cts the same?

Layoffs suck. That tough Brat will get you through to better times, glad you found this board.