Txakura

(twitch and I were wondering what it came from)

I dunno, loss of consciousness is nothing to mess with... I hope you feel better, that really is a crazy thing.

Wow man, that is HARSH beyond words. Made my head ache just thinking about it.

where's the 22,365 rock chips on the hood?

I like it! How about all three to the left for people that don't dim their hi-beams? I'm 90% happy with the scoop and the plugged holes, it's not perfect, but I was able to do it with stuff on hand and it looks a ton better than a smoking rust hole in the hood. I still need to sand and paint my seam, but it'll do for now.

go to Numbchux page and download them, I may have only kept what I needed, he might have the rest, even if it isn't on line

oooo pretty

I inherited a big dumb square hole cut in the hood of the RX... the hole was bad enough, but it was also crooked with mondo screw holes in the open... Some time waaaay back I traded Subaruguru for a schkoop and figured I'd eventually get around to doing something with it. Well, here goes nothin'. I had to narrow it 4 1/4" to fit the cowl. I cut 2 1/8" on either side of center on the inner liner. I kept the 'T' that was cut out to use as a doubler as it already had the countour. Scuffed, clamped and epoxied with aircraft epoxy (ATACS). I have it centered to hide the majority of the exisitng hole... the big dumb screw holes? I'll put a nice button head screws in them, the theory is that a hole with a screw in it looks less weird than open holes... if anybody asks they'll become "vortex generators" to disturb the "laminar hood flow". (Top that sarcasm ) Tomorrow I'll narrow the cover plate and TRY to not do something anti-pretty, but it can't be much more ugly than a rough cut rusty hole on a white hood.

hmmmmm... much to consider, perhaps get the IC going before I get cocky

good deal, I hope they are complete HA, Numbchux is hosting them here ; http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm

someone had these on line... sent me the link... can't find it I have them locally on my box, I attempted to email them to your hotmail addy in your profile but they are big and the server may kick them back *** 9 megs, no error message (yet) check your hotmail and see if they are there

the shifter runs a rail into the gearbox, the slop you felt may have been the 'normal' worn out rubber bushings and linkages on the shift mechanism itself do a search here on shift bushings and you'll see a bunch of ways to fix that cheap, that is also a nice bargaining chip to have, if you are able to tell if it's the shifter itself, or the gearbox that is having the issue, what? you may end up revisitng the car and making a counter offer do a google and go to the wikipedia pages on EA and EJ Subaru engines, it'll lay it out pretty well to see all the iterations and models and help get you up to speed this is the older forum, so the term EA, EA81 and EA82 get thrown around a lot, the EA is the engine series and the 81/82 is used interchangeably for engine AND car body style there are a few camps here, and some strong opinions but generally what is best for you depends on your expected use, the EA81 is considered by many to be a much better engine than the EA82. The EA82 came 'carbbed', with single point fuel injection,(SPFI), multi point (MPFI) and there was a turbo version the EA82T, (best avoided, although I have one and it makes me giggle like a school girl) the 'T' designation is unofficial - btw but commonly used and accepted the EJ swap referred to is brilliant, there are people here who make the wire bundles, adapter plates etc and there is a complete write up from Numbchux on how to do it step by step, Scott in Bellingham has 'SJR' and makes kits, Bill Omlin has kits too essentially, for a few hundred dollars, you can add 50 reliable horsepower and 50 ft lbs of torque to an older car and have the satisfaction of building your own custom wagon with 2", 4" or 6" lift you are in very good hands here, the expertise is unreal, the board very active, I am learning almost every day when I read here and still have a ton to learn, this board is also polite , unlike NAXJA and I suspect the same with the TJ boards and yes, I'm selling my XJ, it is an overpriced, poorly engineered poop stick that breaks too easily and gets really crappy mileage* *individual results may vary so, set up your user profile and get your private messaging enabled, you got a new home

^^^ holy crap

During some serious reading and searching I saw the idea of the MAF mounted after an IC, this made some sense to me, but I didn't see anyone that had done it. It wasn't the direct target of my searching, but a side note. Has anyone done it? Is there any advantage or disadvantage to it? (stock ea82T, no mods planned beyond IC)

What are you going to do with the car, what will it's purpose be? Daily driver (DD), off road? baja? rally? what do you expect it to do?

wouldn't that be funny if your directional tread was mixed up... geez if your pretty happy with everything else, +1 on the tires themselves *** oh hey, have you tried the rotation game? where you move a tire from front to back to see if it changes anything? ***

I never said that, anywhere. We're talking about an electrolyte, it was assumed that the TSP was in the same electrical set up in place of the soda ash/washing soda/baking soda solution. So you're pointing out a cleaner, that is 1) hard to find in your area, and 2) potentially banned in others... as being useful for... who? as opposed to a box of baking soda cooked at 300 F for an hour, available for pennies at ANY grocery store you went to five stores looking for something else? when you get done with your parts, put the pics up, I already posted mine

years ago I used a plastic paint on an entire hideous interior*, I had very good results and it was reasonably durable, I kept some of the left over for touch ups when a scratch or two showed up I used Castrol Super Clean, which is very alkali, and thoroughly scrubbed everything with a mild scotch brite (red I think) and rinsed it until any and all residue of the cleaner was gone and hung the parts to air dry in the sun and get warm the paint I used, maybe a Krylon plastic paint, had MEK in it, (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) and it really fused to the pieces and flashed off quickly, (check the label) you might also consider using a plastic primer, as it attaches to the material so well, and almost any paint can bond to it - which would let you use any color you wanted (*yeah, "Monkey Poop Brown" was not a good idea, even when it was new)

Well explained, I now know the function as well as how to tie it into my existing system. Thank you, Legacy Triple 7.

I have been reading the bbs late into the night, doing a lot of searching on a whole grocery list of things... but haven't stumbled on this yet: was thinking of putting a 205 TMIC on my ea82T for the time being, until I need it for the 'big build' (ej22) (since I already have it lying around) the IC has a recirc valve on it, I think I could block it off or I could use it, I'm not sure if I did use it, the vaccum line on the diaphragm could go to an unused port on the ea throttle body post maf, yeah? but what does the actual port, the one that opens and allows some bypass, tie back into? forgive my newbness to this side of the world ** edit, this is really, 'where does this go' on the 205, not 'where does this go' on my car (retrofitting) **

Yeah, I washed a lot of road grime out of the fins too, tons and tons, it amazed me how much crap rinsed out.

some, the water was initially dark when I dumped it and rinsed to clear, the car it came from was not maintained and I wanted to make sure it was clear of crud -like stop leak left over from the donor car's heater core leak- I didn't have any problems with the rad itself before, but since I was putting it on an ea82T I wanted to be confident it was as decent as possible before I mounted it doing it in the shop like that was easier in a way than cutting a heater core line for a flush and fill kit, running a hose and discharging a toxic mess to my yard thought it might be useful to other folks in the north for winter work when a big mess from a flush kit isn't an option

Ummmmm... care to clarify that a skosh?

Had an all metal dual core in the rafters and wanted to clean it out before I used it. Grabbed fluid pump at work, (used for draining hot water tanks), two clamps and some Prestone flush and fill. Rinsed it with the petcock open and the faucet as hot as possible, closed the petcock and added 1/2 the bottle of cleaner and closed the radiator cap. Let circulate for 20 minutes and rinsed thoroughly after disconnecting all the hoses.

IN this case it wasn't an option.