Txakura

90 cents a gallon on the EPA rating

excess fuel or weak spark? check cap and rotor for condition, inspect plug wires for deterioration, change plugs cocoa brown sounds too dark, light tan is better, maybe all 4 are old

Ford Blue is my favorite color, that'll look cool Bill.

cut and weld, my rust is visible so I'm reluctant to try my hand on something like that but hey, your's will never be seen - go for it

need drivers?

oooo those are sharp, and it does totally lend itself to an ej swap

just my jealousy, I'm sure he knows I'm kidding about the first part...

$200? whut? just get some cheapies at Wally Mart and call it good

I guess it depends on whether it is chirping away, announcing it's going bad, or if it has come completely apart and can't be driven at all me, I'd try to drive it - without seeing or hearing it, it's tough to call

I'm starting to not like you... er uhh I mean Oh hey cool, nice find man you know what I'd find in a barn? horse____ and hornets nests...

Schwing. PM sent

or not... the passenger one is cast solid, the driver side had a small circular opening in it that went to nothing for the ventilation we use the rusted holes in the floor, which also lets the exhaust leaks vent to the atmosphere via the cab

that's kind of what I was thinking of, but these vents are flat and from the same styling era so it kind of works (RS photo used without permission from the Primitive Racing website for reference only, please don't sue me)

Yes, I had to cover a big hole in the hood - also missing the rear bumper cover.

Numbchux is probably the guy to ask, he does wire harnesses.

cooling and possibly for air through a Volvo engine oil cooler they are just laying on the hood in the pic, haven't had time to look at the hood structure or where the oil cooler might mount best... i.e. I'd like to protect it under the hood, if I can get some air through it mainly I thought it was funny because of the way they came about, stared at them for hours through that other windshield before it occurred to me that maybe I could have them for a little humorous project

I was driving our beloved Datsun 720 rust bucket at work today when I realized those nifty non functional black louvers (one does go through, but neither accomplishes anything) would look much better on my RX... my boss said no problem, I could have them. After work I popped them off, and laid them on my hood propped up to see what they would look like. I was thinking of those small vents that new Subarii have, but those are $85 a pair and they don't fit a flat hood like ours. So... now I have to make them functional by opening up the faux grill with a dremel and then locating them on my previously butchered hood. I was kind of thinking something near the turbo and maybe doing something crazy with the other side. If I add enough BS scoops it makes me faster, right? Too Nissan-y?

That makes total sense, the filter is so close nearby it would have been easy to lean on the fitting or bump it while you were working. Yes the RS is still together, unfortunately I have 15" studded Hankooks on it so I can't use it until I come up with some summer tires ($$$ issues) I scored an RX, from Moscow, and it has been doing great. In some ways it's in better condition than the RS... not all hammered underneath, no major rust, but it's a little rough in other places. 6 to 1, half dozen to the other

send me a PM with your number, as the only other RS in the world, maybe I can come up and we can look at it, G ooo, just remembered the vacuum lines come off a little splitter by the driver side, it's on the fender close to the windshield wiper motor, follow the two lines down to the big ball sitting on the gearbox - that's the actuator I guess you could make sure everything is secure and nothing popped off or is broken/leaking

I can't tell anyone to drive or not drive, if it were my own personal rig, I'd probably do it, stay way out of any rpm other than necessary and no where close to any boost... but it'd depend on how badly I thought the engine was damaged i.e. not make a $200 problem a $1,200 problem that close can you get a tow from anyone? 4 hrs for a first time go is probably not realistic what else have you figured out? are the oil and coolant mixing? oh, and they'e head bolts on that engine

does it control the annoying "door lock" indicator on the panel?

Christine? hey this is OT, but my clock, horn and cruise were acting funny, it turned out to be in the ignition switch itself, wiggling the key, clock pops back to life Umm, about the above post... not real sound advice. On any particular item. So, you found your throttle cable was way out of adjustment, that explains the lack of power at the high end, but not the idle. Has it gotten any better with use?

roger that, why I clipped carbbed off of quote, yes, pull all plugs on any engine

What Gloyale said. Leave it on the wire bundle, lay it in the car, if you don't need it, it won't hurt to carry it. you can delete it later.

Okay, maybe this will help someone else chime in. First pic shows the general area of the relay in question, cruise servo and weird 4wd fuse, (his donor was fwd, so the wire may be there on the harness, just not used) second pic shows the only relay over there, and it has a blu/yellow wire, like he posted third pic shows the connectors, really buried down behind the headlight - isn't the big one the headlight itself? and the smaller one the side marker? pic not taken was rad and fan connectors, which hang in space in fairly plain sight...