Txakura

so what does it look like, the contraption itself? what is a simple schematic of it?

You know you're enabling lunacy, right?

I had meant to ask you for a simple schematic of this clever little system, you gave me an idea

Welcome, this Board has given me LOTS of bad ideas you'll have a good time making the two into one and see some really crazy stuff here (retrofitting and transplants)

If he isn't too busy, I last heard about my harness in October of last year.

use this to help figure it out http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html y hola! amigo, que tal? I'm running a 205/70 - 15 but it's a 4" lift, no trim. I do rub on maximum lock, just barely. I may be going to a low profile 16" because I can get some really nice rims for cheap. Using that tire size calculator I can find a smaller outside diameter and lower sidewall even though it's a larger inner diameter. Tengo gusto de visitar Honduras, pero esté peligroso a través de México! (mas o menos, 'babel fish' no esta exactemente, lol)

Delta Cams

LMAO he did worse than that... der FrankenMotor lives on

I run Hankooks on everything. Studded and non studded Winter 401's, Suubs and non Suubs at home, but it's gotten to where I'm putting them on the work trucks for the winter too. They just seem to hold up really really well and I like their traction. after two seasons one set (studded HanKook 235/75 - 15 Winter 401) is still going very strong, in that same time a set of a Firestone (that I did not buy) have become unusable - pin loss, abnormal wear, and 'chipping' from gravel I do keep a pretty close eye on pressure and rotatation, as well as reduce speed on dry pavement $.02 oh yeah, at WCSS13 a couple people ribbed me for my 100 degree desert rated winter hankooks, lol, it was either that or the studded ones. :-p

Hey, I'm in Pullman/Albion. Look for the '88 white RX or the red lifted '90 RS

the computer has to be put into a special mode to set the timing, then put back. I clip the two green connectors together near the wiper motor, (90 Loyale) start the car, set the timing, then turn it off and unclip them I took the belt out of a '93 Legacy. I had to pull the trim over the window etc etc, driver seat.. it's different on the ej cars than the ea. the bottom line is that even that car had unused factory bolt holes at the right location to mount an older lap belt from another car era and get rid of the 'auto noose' (well put), I had to change the receiving end to match of course use the search a bit and the timing should be 'splained better elsewhere welcome to the board

Yes I was a little crappy, seemed the point was being missed and over analyzed. The device is a coil that generates a low voltage when certain frequencies are 'heard' or rather 'felt' through direct contact with the block. (A frequency, or range of frequencies, corresponding to detonation in the engine). The low voltage signal is sent to the ECU which retards the timing to prevent further detonation. It's in a less than ideal environment, cycles of hot and cold, petroleum products, vibration and dissimilar metal corrosion all work on it. The phenolic covering becomes embrittled and cracks allowing outside air, moisture etc to cause it to rust and fail. I had a code for it, and when I removed my old one there were pieces from the cover missing and the coil inside was rusted. I removed another from a junk engine lying around and although it was cracked the computer is satisfied with it and the CEL has gone out. Before I installed it to the engine, I hit on the idea of cleaning the outside with a dry rag and painting the casing with two coats of liquid electrical tape. The small existing cracks were filled by the 'tape' and there is now a continuous flexible water tight, and petroleum resistant coating on it. Perhaps, I will never change it again, perhaps it will fail tomorrow. Since it is fairly easy to get to, and since they all seem to be prone to failure, maybe it would make sense remove it and seal it with a flexible covering before it does fail, hence 'preventative' fix. Yes, I apologize for being crappy, but you have to admit the line about the lawyer proofing the post is somewhat humorous. Reagrds.

Never said water made it crack. Only meant I didn't want crap getting in mine, which was cracked already but still serviceable. Don't think I changed the acoustics painting the outer covering only, and not the mating surface. But, since I need a lawyer to proof read my posts before I put them up, by all means, disregard the idea of putting a flexible, impermeable covering on a cracked one.

Before my used but good ej22 donor sensor could go bad, I painted it with two coats of 'liquid electrical tape' before I installed it. Figured that'd stop the water from getting in and maybe keep the cracks in the housing from spreading. Just a thought.

Me too, every third car in Moscow, Idaho is a Suub. Ambassador Auto has real parts guys that like a challenge.

perhaps the 'extra' bolts and having a broader area to distribute the force across change the need to retorque? sssssh your scaring my birds out of the driveway

very nice, very nice

pull one form a self service junkyard, look for one that isn't broken, $5 part at a pull and save

Width? probably 195-205 would be fine

While doing some work the other day I replaced my 1990 Legacy ECU with a 1993 Legacy ECU I had on the shelf. The work at hand isn't really the post here, I had an odd thought about those computers. The 90 was visibly different from the 93, with a 2 holes in the case and a whole other part number series etc etc that got me thinking about the contents of the boxes Would anyone know if there were any refinements to the computers, slightly different timing, fuel curve, etc etc that might have been incorporated as the series ran? It seems reasonable to me that there would have been subtle changes in the contents of the ECU programming over the first year of introduction. It's academic, I know, but I'd be interested to hear if there were. I may have had 'free' hp or torque sitting on my shelf and not known it.

There used to be a 'form a thread' that seemed to work in some cases. You painted a release agent on the good threads of the bolt, and put some putty in the retapped and cleaned hole. You wouldn't put in so much you filled the bottom of the hole with excess stuff. It dried and held well and the release agent let the bolt be removed later. +1 on the helicoil or timesert, of course, but if its salvageable, the longer bolt and some 'form a thread' might be fine too btw I had that form a thread hold a spark plug until it could be properly repaired many months later with an insert

hmmmmm my street bike has a water trap on the breather line that makes milkshakes, but it's moisture being driven out of the crankcase and 'normal' (liquid cooled bike, btw) once in a while I dump it as per the manual but uh, I guess if you have disappearing water that could be a whole other deal

+1