Txakura

Thankk you GD, I may take you up on that. I'll shoot a PM in the next few days.

oops, my bad

no joke, I still wince at Rob's RX pictures, it was doubly close to home as I use the same highway I have a Halon bottle that can ride with me

Thank you all. I removed a dubious electrical set up and had put a mechanical fan on to get home. On the way back the question on the a/c fan came to mind. I will re-install one as a potential fail safe. The dual electric fan idea, to save hp for the wheels, is good. Adding some discreet indicator for peace of mind is very very good.

brag? kind of... it is pretty rough, in the details I left out, I had even more good reasons to question the engine (which is why I didn't say much before now) I was mainly into the chasis/gearbox/lsd as a car, it needs a lot of work, for our purposes here it is neat to see one that has survived this long I have no plans to modify the ea82T, but I may add a basic intercooler to prolong it's life, beyond that I'd like to find replacements for missing bits um, like a bumper (a hitch on an ea82T with a single core radiator great idea ) naw you didn't ruin the lsd for sale, but those are like throwing meat before hungry wolves on this board

I could easily have it backwards, but it has a mechanical fan for primary and the electric kicks in when the a/c is on and drags through the evaporator and rad. I don't remember if it has a temp sensor or if it is keyed (armed?) off the a/c being selected ??? life needs more mystery wires :-\

hey, if the a/c is disconnected (pump removed), will the secondary (electric) ea82 fan even come on?

Ok. I am changing my mind. I just met the pulley from hell, I guess I have had a charmed life till now. I had read this and used the breaker bar starter trick. I even had a remote starter handy. I had a 1/2" 22mm socket on some funky bar t-bar in a pipe, I watched in amazement as the pulley slowly twisted the t bar 90 degrees and generally mangled the crud out of it... I had to pull the rad, grill and center hood latch support and sneak a 1/2 impact in while pulling the upper bumper trim back and even then it was looking kind of iffy if the impact ratchet was going to pull it off. On an upsurge from the compressor it finally broke lose. Yeah, so, screw the hammer, that only works if they are undertorqued or have been off in the last 20 years.

WOW that is really sharp

Well yeah. You get what you pay for I guess, and it is a little rough, but... it runs, and seems to be okay. Or, at least hasn't blown up yet, maybe later. I saw it near work and kept driving by it, finally I knocked and left my number and the guy called and well, here it is. I was surprised by a few things, namely the headgaskets and heads seem to be okay so far, despite a blown water pump. Compression is good. Fluids are staying seperate, starts immediately. I was delighted when I pulled the belt covers to see all new idlers, belts and pulleys, and happy to see the new struts. It came with two sets of tires and a stereo thrown in. Couple of things I wasn't ready for, the red turn signal indicators on the dash, (instead of the green I'm used to) and the little turbo emblem that lights up under boost, I don't recall anyone mentioning that before, it startled me merging into traffic - I thought it was a warning light out of the corner of my eye! I didn't think much of the home made cold air package, but it does let you hear some turbo noise, which is cute (for lack of a better term). But whats up with the 'ka boosh' when it dumps excess pressure? I thought these didn't have any type of blow off? Did someone add that? Bought it as a non runner, with a big dumb %%% hole in the hood, missing rear bumper (nice hitch ), the mandatory sun baked upholstery, and a cracked windshield. The water pump was as bad as I've ever seen, and the PO's single row rad has got to go. I trailered it, and swapped the pump today. He claims he didn't drive it after the pump crapped, that it was undriveable, (I agree, but don't know what that really means or how often it got hot before he parked it). He claimed to have not radically overheated it, that it failed on the way home and really let go when he got to his house. I wasn't figuring that it was a useable engine, and had planned on parking it until some future ej swap... but it's cool to finally drive an ea82T and see what that was all about, it was an option for my RS, and I was always curious what a little more power would do for driveability. Now I know, it makes you grin like an idiot. and no, the lsd is not for sale

gloyale posted this in something unrelated "there is an oil line bolted to the rear of the head, low in the corner.(hard line, banjo bolt style. Don't lose the 2 copper crush washers) A larger oil return tube beneath the turbo.(5/16 or 3/4 trans cooler hose works well. Diesel Truck repair shop would stock) And also a coolant return hose (1/2 inch heater hose) that snakes under said plate then clamps to a pipe that bolts to the underside of the head. There is a small 10mm bolt holdin that pipe to the head as well, near the exhaust port. Coolant supply hose on the top is obvious." so, a pic would still be ok, I'm dealing with mess from the PO

Can someone take pity on my soul and snap a labeled picture of the ea82t oil and coolant lines for the turbo, my Chilton's is not helping for this. TIA

I think you're onto something. The rack travel is the same, but the work accomplished is different. because the same lever travels further, the angle changes... ouch, nosebleed still wonder how he settled on 1 1/8", or if it was arbitrary... if he had a solid reason for doing that particular distance, you could infer the travel on other distances for instance, if you filled the original hole and moved it aft without cutting and welding you might achieve some benefit without having to cut, weld, anneal, inspect and repeat...

How are you making the turn radius smaller? It doesn't change, you're shortening the distance the rack travels to get the same deflection of the wheel. A 45 degree deflection is still 45 degrees, but you're using a shorter lever to get there. You can swing the tip of that lever 6 feet, or you can swing it 6 inches but it's still 45 degrees. One will take more strength to move than the other, and it takes more time to travel 6 feet than 6 inches, but the angle is still 45.

was thinking more on this, my modest ea82 already has a tendency to reach it's oversteer limits rather quickly by traction, that is; pavement is harder to reach the limit on, but the threshold lowers to a different point in mud, gravel, clay, snow, ice etc etc as it is, the car communicates it's intentions rather politely with a vague voodoo feeling in the wheel, that neutraility lets me know I'm coming close to scrubbing the front wheels and making a new and unintended line having more responsives could be useful, very useful, but I can also see where this change in geometry could alter the way the car communicates, or even that it lowers the understeer threshold, or reducs the warning time altogether still, depending on any answer to the above post, it might be possible to calculate a modest improvement in response time, e.g. ratio, and improve the handling the other 99% of the time the car is not pushing any limit I hope there's a follow up to this, not a one hit wonder of a post

GD praised an idea? (just kidding GD) wow, the videos posted were very good just out of curiosity, you mentioned 1 1/8" as your modification and also that moving it less would result in less interference at full lock and limit the possibility of going too far overcenter with the ball joint how did you settle on 1 1/8" for your purposes? as opposed to say half that, 9/16", or any other number? I have a knuckle on my coffee table (doesn't everyone), this is an amazing idea - what about welding in the old hole and moving it one diameter back without cutting and splicing the knuckle? even a modest 20% improvement would seem worth the effort

the lock switch would be where the sticker is on the center console, it looks like a d/r 5 label but I couldn't make out the second shifter on this crappy monitor at any rate, for $400 I would snap it up whether it ran or not - but I am biased towards that body style

About as cold air induction as it can get, I was thinking more of the 1970 Plymouth Barracuda Shaker... with the cold air box and scoop fixed with a gasket and the hood opened aorund it.

Kind of surprised, after searching, that although it has been discussed, no one has posted a succesful Shaker (style) Hood. I'd think it could be functional for an intercooler, or dropping underhood temperatures. Plus it looks cool.

Memorial Day sounds best. Suubs and family are not mutually exclusive. Eburg is not a huge traffic issue (once you get off I-90). The campsite might need to be booked in advance. No idea how to anticipate the size needed, half the yay's won't show, half the lurkers will...

that is an excellent outline winegars for ice cream social, canyon drive, miner burgers, drive back and camp made that canyon run myself many times, its often ice free when the high road is treacherous also tubed and fly fished there (C&R for all you so inclined to do some fishing) I'd come just to socialize with my RS and stay in Yakima all that remains is to set some date, and I think it might be good to give winegar's and miner's a heads up so they can have some extra staff handy, just in case there is a big turn out

That's cool you took care of it yourself and got the satisfaction from it. Well done.

ooooooo Brian's tube shop... maybe that wasn't a good thing to post as every board member immediately thinks of all the cool stuff for their car!

^^^ +1 , why even screw around with the oem style bearing? you'll only change them once in the car's life anyway...