Txakura

rock auto has them (studs) listed by car, you can get them in five packs

his site has changed a bit, took a look there too

is there anywhere close by that can break them loose for you, clean and lube the threads and put them back on safe/good enough to get home? those would be a mother by hand

any one know a source? nothing at 1st Subaru

I got the bright idea to pull it out and paint the base plate black... too dark to take a pic, no flash on cell camera. Not sure about the black, I'll get a good coat of road dust on it and see what I think then. 4 lo in 1st and 2nd is pretty nice to have, glad to have the finishing interior bits

nice price

3 Subarus had to die to get all the console pieces together, later I'll work on getting the colors to match. For now I'll just enjoy not having to stare at an unfinished dust boot. Yes, that's my s/r shifter on the d/r stuff... couldn't part with the switch

You're good to go. Someone may have already dealt with it. Now get 'em on there so you can enjoy them

"What a lot of great information! Thank you for taking the time to write this up, and for putting it in an easy-to-follow manner." ditto

brake bleed screw goes to the back, line fitting to the front - speaking of which, did you get the metal brake line too? the line is a little different from the rubber hose connection on the trailing arm to the caliper vs. to the drum, also the drum fitting threads in, the caliper has a banjo bolt

because he wants to see a real time display of his current consumption

wasn't meant as a serious slam, just a tease, it took some dedication to research all that - a person has to be a little obsessive to pioneer things that other people take for granted does this mean regular struts/shocks can be re-tooled? that could open a ton of options for the horrible roads over here

those two 10mm bolts down by the firewall, under the pedals on the inside, don't necessarily have to come out, they just hold a little collar, (dust shield?) it'll come with the column I took one set out before I realized they could stay you might take the two 14mm nuts off your column, lower it, remove the upper and lower trim pieces and look at your column lock, maybe you'll get lucky and it's something dumb that can be worked around for now

get some tubing, vacuum line, aquarium tubing whatever you can slip over the bleed fitting (I stretch aquarium tubing with a philips until I can just slip it onto the bulb on the bleed screw) find a clean container with a lid, peanut butter jar, crystal light can - whatever poke a hole in the lid so the tube can slide to the bottom and won't pull out of the container place it by the wheel to bleed, pour a little clean brake fluid in the bottom so the tube is submerged in the jar open the bleeder, (not too far) slip the tube on the end go pump your brakes, watch the reservoir level, keep an eye on the jar by the wheel the fluid in the jar won't let air come back in the line - one man bleeder when you have the big air out, leave the tubing on the fitting and tighten the bleed screw just enough to let it leak a bit - for the last pumps on the pedal - get out quickly and go straight to the fitting and tighten it - if there is still fluid standing in the line you know that it didn't let any air back in to the caliper/cylinder have fun, if nothing else, you double check them when you have a pump monkey later

LMAO

I'm so sorry. brake lock = brain lock for so many idiots

takes OCD to all new heights - but by posting it, everyone can benefit from his hard work - proves it's possible, and shows the way to recreate the results - well done not sure why the disdain for nitrogen, been used in aircraft struts for over 60 years

hover powered radar absorbent carbon fiber with a nuclear power cell

Man that sux, I lost a Mach 1 Mustang that way... you okay? passengers okay?

cool, thanks guys, seems to me there should be some 'old school' hot rodding work that would help me out the debate I'm having is a silly one, the EJ22 is the easy choice... but I kind of want something a little over the top as far as the ea82 n/a 1.8, after so many 100's of thousands of miles of service in more than one car I'm just curious about what would make it mo' better the solution is to have more than one car, ha ha

that looks tough! cool idea to show 1 pic from each year, nice Brat!

I changed my column by myself in about half an hour. Just get one from a yard.

How far did they go and what did it accomplish?

I find wrapping my head in tin foil cuts down on some of the noise from "the others" Stickers are good, as lots of Pinto owners discovered with 'Holley' and 'Edelbrock', but for my Loyale I found XT seats really add to the hp and torque, at least 5% think my mileage went up too

essentially the same thing, the problem is that there is no way to know until you get it off, HOW to get it off - that manual is worthless, you can't figure out the ratchet mechanism until it's already off the first time I pulled both I played hell with that OOL lip holding the shoes, the irony is that if I'd gone to the brake that was still good, it would have come off easier and shown me how to take apart the screwed up one... but I started on the one that was the problem - hindsight the second time I went in to them was to replace them with rear disc - that's when I came up with the 'hack technique' of just blowing away the pins and unbolting the whole mess and letting it fall off in a pile - but the pins are cheap, and it doesn't really hurt the cylinder or anything you'd like to re-use the pins can be cut with dikes from the back side, the whole mess off in 5 minutes (depending on the spline corrosion) glad you got it, turning the pin to pop it out of it's cup is a good idea