Txakura

Roger that. well there's always the baby boom 9 months later...

The car is no more, having been put to rest by the great crusher. Between it's hard life and the stuff I stripped off of it, it was pretty much a mercy killing at this point. The guy (farmer Fred) was supposed to call me so I could video the crush, but he forgot... oh well.

I had thought a nuclear powered hover suubie with snow blade might have been useful last winter... can't get the material for the flux capacitor though :-\ yeah ok, I'm a little bored, 'scuse that post

I agree, unless it has major holes in it, it is amazing how much a good scrubbing and rinse will accomplish. I have had good luck with 'Tuff Stuff' and Blue Coral Upholstery Cleaner. Just hanging the carpet and rinsing it to death with a garden hose and nozzle until the water runs clean can make miracles happen.

(nice touch on the freezer action) thanks for reminding me of that - I'll be doing both sides of mine soon

I have had good luck with simply using Castrol high mileage 10-40... within minutes on the road the lifter usually shut up, if not, then within the first day or two after the oil change. It would come back, but that kept it away 95% of the time. the additives or modifiers in the Castrol seem to have slowed then stopped some leaky seals on my former engine too just try that at your next oil change and see if it helps without all the voodoo and witchcraft additives...

Hey Chux, found something you might be interested in if you decide to repair the car - the body is straight - or close enough

think that was the same week I popped the seals in my oil pump trying to move molasses with it good thing I put the block heater in after the fact

let it continue to leak or take it all apart and clean and seal everything with rtv, or replace it all and seal it with rtv - don't understand why you're splitting hairs do it or don't do it, no one can say over the net 'no dude, just every other grommet or the right/left side only' think I'm feelin' GD's pain

good point. mine was leaking like a sieve, no idea what his is doing - hard to tell over the internet, no matter how hard I stare at my monitor but since he asked... and I had just done mine the hard way, it seemed goodly to write all I had done

there is a HUGE difference between Eastern and Western Washington, Western WA MAY use salt in an emergency but also the marine climate of the Puget Sound and coastal areas creates some salt water damage to cars 2" of snow does not constitute an emergency in Eastern Washington and we do not use salt, (hell for that matter 2 feet of snow does not constitute an emergency )

rock auto . com you'd have had them already if you hadn't bought the lucas

use a block of 4 x 4 about 10" long on a floor jack under the cylinder head outside of the oil pan, then it's not in your way to get the pan off

I didn't have time to screw around with it when I did mine if you disconnect the exhaust, the torque link and the spare tire carrier (the heater core hoses will hit it) and at least loosen the transmission mounting bolts... I have no idea what you'd get I got enough room to do mine and stopped, there was no reason for me to try and go higher you could of course pull the engine out - then you'd have all the room in the world

#1 I am so sorry, that is a neat car and it isn't it's fault it got pranged up #2 I'm a motorcylcist my blood is absolutely boiling over her lack of attention, good people get hurt and killed by idiots like that but shooting her on the spot is still considered illegal #3 glad it wasn't something that hurt you or your passengers

it's a deal, if/when I have the time to pick my own fight, I'll take a pic or two and post something for posterity totally agree, in a four door, both front windows should work that way, in the coupe it's a no brainer

just make up some new model name and throw a number in... 'yeah it's a Subaru LM 5500' if they have to ask they don't know what they're looking at and 2) any answer you give them is going in one ear and out the other this post is interesting, as usual my car is some mongloid in-between... I had thought I had an RX style air dam, but my sheetmetal 'wings' are smaller... like the other poster I had modified mine in the snow and have been running without half the supporting structure... matter of fact, when you saw the car at Monstaru's house it had the hammered in and back out fender, it is out of position to tie it all back together underneath, about 3/4" too far in on the lower corner don't know what Dzus fasteners you have in mind, I used to install 'cam locks' manufactured by Dzus, is that what you meant? 1/4 turn the head pops up and releases from the socket? post more pics Andy, this is useful stuff

Unfortunately, I just had this experience. I was able to get the pan down far enough to take the old gasket off, and put the new one on. I took the nuts off the engine to crossmember studs, left the exhaust connected and did not take the torque link off. When the engine is lifted about 1 1/2" to 2" inches, loosen the mount to block bolts, take one bolt out and rotate the mount assembly out of the way, they overlap the pan just enough to trap it in place. The pan will not move far enough aft (?) to come off the pick up tube. However, the tube is attached with 1) 10mm bolt and there appears to be an o-ring at the tube to block intersection. If I had had a new o-ring, I would have pulled the pickup and pan. (This is something other people can comment on). If your pan gasket is cooked on and crispified, it'd be just about impossible to get all the old crap off without being able to completely remove the pan. To get the new gasket on, around the pan, I cut it at about a 45 degree angle between two holes on the side of the pan leaving lots of edge margin on the holes and sealing the beejeezuz out of the area of the cut. Cutting at an angle presents some gasket to the oil and not a straight path for an exit. It is not leaking. There is just enough room to get your hand between the bottom of the engine and the seal surface of the pan. It should go without saying that you will have to be extremely careful to not knock any crap into the pan, or sockets, or bolts... You will need a 1/4" universal joint and at least a 9" extension to get the 6 bolts across the back row of the pan above the crossmember. Put some masking tape on the u-joint to keep it from flopping around and being useless, put a small piece on the end to keep the socket tight, and on the end to keep the ujoint/socket from falling off and being frustrating. It took me just over an hour, at a very leisurely pace. here are some pics, it was dark and no fun, but I thought to take some blurry crappy cell pics to remind myself of how stupid I can be

Suubie Porn?

I heard on the radio new Subaru sales are up 34% over last year at this time... I'm thinkin' the clunker act has some folks buying Suubies

or Eastern Washington

well I have an extra driver switch and only two power windows to deal with... so it is sounding like I can just put the extra in the passenger slot on the master panel and have fully automated windows on both sides... (from my seat anyway) (and thanks for the idea on the aftermarket controller)

Man they just never come off the road here, doesn't matter what kind of shape they're in, they just keep on boppin' along fenders flappin' in the breeze. Our winters are harsher than Portland so they still fetch a good price regardless of condition... oddly, up north a bit where Monstaru and Baccaruda are there seem to be more parts cars and some deals to be found... even though it's really the same climate. The junkyard down south only had THREE Subarus last time I checked - and they had their parts priced so high it was stupid. OOPS sorry, went OT - as far as those ads go, except the rust, they would seem reasonably priced around here - pretty much any truck has some market for practicality around here - farmer would just make a flat bed out of it and use it for something specific like a fuel or service truck or something like that

anybody ever tried to convert any window other than the driver window to auto up/down? I sure like that feature and think it'd be useful on the passenger side too... was looking at the switch, seems like that 'feature' lives in the switch, not the window control box under the carpet...

the idler is adjustable... does the belt have the right tension on it? the pulley bearing is less than $20 from Rock Auto, taking the bracket/pulley off and switching the bearing out is no big deal this really isn't a sale killing item if everything else is good and the price is right