Txakura

The gentleman in question is a factory Subaru mechanic, pretty sure he's up to speed on proper technique, he was rebuilding an EJ25 at the dealership that was covered under the power train warranty (ate the #1 rod bearing) - (another 'great' engine) in short, he came across as technical and very professional the deal is quite simple, and very common to all of us - just too many projects, he decided to put the effort into something else and let the car go, he was going to sell the whole car but I mentioned that I might be interested in parts of it and that he didn't need to put it together just to sell it... (not sure he uses the USMB, but he has a lot of parts he's clearing out... I would like to see him post them here - more on that later) so... I agree on the melting down and re-casting of the block as something more useful... but really, what could I offer that isn't too low or too high? this might be in my price range right now, instead of saving for a looooong time to build a proper EJ and I'm already working on my ea82 every day... ha ha

this is so far over my head I just had to post this to say this was so far over my head doing some serious cutting edge retro-research down under, please keep us posted with some details and maybe pics of this car, it sounds very interesting

brb, I'll go pull one of mine and make some crappy cell pics to show the install... it just has a little trick to pop them in, think you're okay, just getting caught under the lock lever... sit tight **** ok, every once in a while my phone software decides to not communicate with the phone - this is one of those times it has to seat on the handle pin before it seats on the front edge slide it around the handle down to the closed (locked) lock lever, push gently in with your thumb to get the cup under the lock lever, open the door handle and get the two split clasps on the trim cup to seat on the door handle pin, top and bottom, push on the forward edge of the cup and it should snap in place up front mine have made the trip too many times, I have added some short screws to hold it from popping loose up front I'll post some pics when my effing software can connect to the phone

they should be the same, ea82... got a pic of 'doesn't fit'? run them down the door handle with the lock in the open position till it stops, then close the lock and slide the cup in place while it's closing - hard to slide them underneath

take off the homemade glass pack, and see if the problem still exists with open exhaust (don't get too rowdy and get a ticket)

interesting

loose baffle in the catalytic converter blocking the flow?

I use the 'High Mileage' Castrol 10-40 (also non synthetic, green bottle), it has some seal conditioners that actually seem to help stop weepy seals of which there are about 28 on the grEAsy82

yeah the suckability has been well established but $$$

deer, birds and pedestrians too...

it has a certain MAD MAX appeal, I dig it - definitely makes it look like you mean serious business

local Subaru dealer mechanic has an ea82T long block with fresh heads, all new gaskets and .5mm os pistons... plus an xt spider intake, the complete exhaust and turbo package... so, I could build a pretty fresh turbo... ea82t with the possibility of mounting an intercooler... and I do have 2) double row steel radiators laying around... hmmm on the one hand, all that effort should go into an ej swap... on the other, what would be a fair offer to this guy - I really really hate price games he flipped out the token 'what's it worth to you?' b.s. $1.95 seems low - so I didn't offer that I mean a few hundred bucks for this, and it amuses me right up until it hand grenades... or much longer delayed gratification and an ej... vaguely, somewhere down the road?

me too

it can

I've used it too, for close tolerance bolts, bushings and plain bearings. I agree with GD. I wouldn't use it in this case, a deep freeze is good enough for these guys.

this is kind of moot, the poster posted that long enough to hear yes, 'but not very well', offered the engine to anyone that wanted it, gave it to some one off line then disappeared dead thread

1986 300E (gas) mpfi so I got called to look at a dead Mercedes, but after it sat overnight it fired right up then died again 2 days later it seems like, there is a fuel pressure regulator that is not passing fuel to the distribution manifold there is the inlet from the pump, a line to the fuel distribution block, a small return line and a vacuum line to the air cleaner housing I THINK the return line is for any fuel in the regulator when the throttle is snapped shut or demand for fuel drops off - it has somewhere to go and does not keep the valve in the regulator open I THINK the small 'vacuum line' is actually for any leakage past the spool valve seals, not to move the valve - more of an emissions thing and it creates a small negative pressure on the opposite side of the valve here's the kicker, Mr.Bosch fuel regulator is $900 !!! the next logical step is to check the fuel pressure being supplied to the regulator - if the pump is weak it wouldn't unseat the valve and allow fuel to flow to the manifold - hence no fuel getting past the regulator but it occured to me I have an extra Subaru FI fuel pump... is the world ready for a Mercedes GL Wagon hybrid?

Roger that. well there's always the baby boom 9 months later...

The car is no more, having been put to rest by the great crusher. Between it's hard life and the stuff I stripped off of it, it was pretty much a mercy killing at this point. The guy (farmer Fred) was supposed to call me so I could video the crush, but he forgot... oh well.

I had thought a nuclear powered hover suubie with snow blade might have been useful last winter... can't get the material for the flux capacitor though :-\ yeah ok, I'm a little bored, 'scuse that post

I agree, unless it has major holes in it, it is amazing how much a good scrubbing and rinse will accomplish. I have had good luck with 'Tuff Stuff' and Blue Coral Upholstery Cleaner. Just hanging the carpet and rinsing it to death with a garden hose and nozzle until the water runs clean can make miracles happen.

(nice touch on the freezer action) thanks for reminding me of that - I'll be doing both sides of mine soon

I have had good luck with simply using Castrol high mileage 10-40... within minutes on the road the lifter usually shut up, if not, then within the first day or two after the oil change. It would come back, but that kept it away 95% of the time. the additives or modifiers in the Castrol seem to have slowed then stopped some leaky seals on my former engine too just try that at your next oil change and see if it helps without all the voodoo and witchcraft additives...

Hey Chux, found something you might be interested in if you decide to repair the car - the body is straight - or close enough