ettev

How about a pic or 2 of what you did to the shifter?

I have two Brats, one with and one without power steering. Naturally I need to swap from one to the other . What am I in for? At least I know I have all the parts. How tough of a job is it? Would it be easier to do with the engine out?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/ Hope they work.

Rest of the truck is decent. Typical stuff around door bottoms and fender well edges. Not too worried about the fenders as I'm planning to clip them and hang flares on it after a lift. Typical rust at upper rear rear shock mounts that can be fixed. Interior of truck is really nice. It has 93,000 miles on it and mechanically works great. Just a shame to have to scrap it because of unibody nonsense. Wanted to start working on it and complete it with my son for his 16th b-day next June. I personally don't do body work or welding/fab stuff (strictly a mechanical wrench) but it doesn't bother me to have to spend a couple bucks to get it done. I just didn't know if it's TOO far gone to even be feasible to operate on. I swear it's this crap that Pennsylvania pre-treats the roads with prior to winter storms. Inspection mechanic friends of mine say that the underside of cars are horrible since PennDOT started using this stuff. I'll post some more pics of the rest of the truck shortly.

I have a 1985 Brat that I'd like to get back on the road after 5 years. Overall its typical rust along the bottom edge of the doors and at the upper rear shock mounts. Some other small stuff that's no big deal as well. Here are the areas that concern me. The forward part of both sides of the floor pan where the unibody horns appear and surrounding areas. I had a 1987 wagon and bought pre-fabricated steel stiffeners for these areas and welded them in but I've never seen them for this body style. Is this thing worth trying to fix? If so what are my options? Thanks for any input.

s360, Thanks. Which kit is better to work with, the BYB from Cali, or SJR from WA? Mike

I've noticed that in general, regardless of salvage yard location, older soobs are starting to dry up. A few years ago they used to be like sand on the beach at our local yards. No longer.

Normal stuff: bottom edges of the doors, left front quarter has broken loose at the bottom hem, rear shock upper mounts are probably thin. I just want to get the body solid and knocked down with 300. Rather than paint I'm leaning toward a full body vehicle wrap in snow camo graphic. Interior is perfect. Mechanically its solid except I do want to put a new heater core in it.

It's been a while since I posted on the USMB but figured this would be the place for my proposal. I sold my '87 GL turbo wagon but still have my '85 Brat. It hasn't been on the road in 4 years. One day the exhaust pipe blew apart and it's been parked ever since. Well, my son is going to be turning 16 soon (see where this is going?) and I'm leaning toward putting him in the Brat. I'd like to get some tricks done on it but simply don't have the time, or quite honestly the know-how to do the things I want to do. I'm good to excellent with mechanical stuff but just never really got into bodywork. I'd love to put a lift kit on this thing but just don't want to tackle it. Anybody interested in this job? I live in Pottsville, and if things are still the same on the USMB I'll tell you where that is in relationship to the salvage yards. I'm on Pa. Route 61 between Joe's U-Pull-It in New Ringgold and Harry's U-Pull-It in Hazleton. Anybody? If not you do you know of someone in this area who might be interested. I'll get the thing running again and could drive it to your place and leave it. I'm assuming there may be torches involved and thats something I don't have readily available (but could get them). I do have a space in my basement where this could be done but I'd rather have it done someplace else so I can hide the thing from my kid until it's ready to go. Thanks in advance. I do have some pics of my Brat someplace if you'd want to see what you're getting into.

It's been a while since I posted on the USMB but figured this would be the place for my proposal. I sold my '87 GL turbo wagon but still have my '85 Brat. It hasn't been on the road in 4 years. One day the exhaust pipe blew apart and it's been parked ever since. Well, my son is going to be turning 16 soon (see where this is going?) and I'm leaning toward putting him in the Brat. I'd like to get some tricks done on it but simply don't have the time, or quite honestly the know-how to do the things I want to do. I'm good to excellent with mechanical stuff but just never really got into bodywork. I'd love to put a lift kit on this thing but just don't want to tackle it. Anybody interested in this job? I live in Pottsville, and if things are still the same on the USMB I'll tell you where that is in relationship to the salvage yards. I'm on Pa. Route 61 between Joe's U-Pull-It in New Ringgold and Harry's U-Pull-It in Hazleton. Anybody? If not you do you know of someone in this area who might be interested. I'll get the thing running again and could drive it to your place and leave it. I'm assuming there may be torches involved and thats something I don't have readily available (but could get them). I do have a space in my basement where this could be done but I'd rather have it done someplace else so I can hide the thing from my kid until it's ready to go. Thanks in advance. I do have some pics of my Brat someplace if you'd want to see what you're getting into.

Any idea what build month, or around what VIN that would have been?

Maybe they should look into a problem with the airbag deployment system instead! Seems like a quick, liability-minimizing fix for Subaru to a potentially bigger problem. Did you pay them yet? If not, "cut off" a portion of their amount due. Tell them when the bill hit your mailbox it inadvertently deployed the air bags in your wallet.

So can anyone talk me out of buying a one-owner 1999 Outback Limited, auto tranny, with 115,000 miles? Unfortunately it's from a dealer, so I doubt there's any chance of me talking to the original owner. How could I verify whether or not the head gaskets were replaced, or better yet may need to be in the near future? Also, is there any way to check whether the auto trans had warranty work done to it, or possibly even replaced? What to do?!?! I need to make a decision on this car tomorrow. What should I look for when I go to see this car? The first post above by rweddy indicates that a Phase II 2.5 is better. How can I tell if thats the engine thats in the car. Is there some character in the VIN that would tell me what engine is in it? Thanks again.

I'm looking to pick up an Outback, something in the 1996 to 1999 models. Can someone tell me what year(s) to avoid? I understand that the 1999 model had automatic tranny problems. Anything else I should know when shopping for these models? Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have.

What makes it worth the $5,500?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4503831114&category=6467

Found a nice dark blue '98 Outback wagon with 119,000 on it. Its a 5-speed with mostly standard equipment. Inside & out are nice. Mechanically strong. Anyone want to give me an idea of what I might have to pay for it. What would be a good deal?

Did they offer a 1.8L FI Turbo in the '93 Impreza line?

Thinking about picking up the following car: 1990 Subaru Legacy LS Special Edition. Here's what the sales write-up says: LOOKING FOR A SHARP SUBARU LEGACY ALL WHEEL DRIVE SEDAN?? WELL, HERES ONE THAT IS LOADED WITH FACTORY OPTIONS, INCLUDING A DEPENDABLE ALL WHEEL DRIVE (AWD) SYSTEM. FEATURING A BEAUTIFUL COLOR COMBINATION OF A PEARL WHITE COLOR EXTERIOR THAT IS COMPLIMENTED BY A RICH TAN COLOR INTERIOR WHICH GIVES THIS LEGACY A HUGE LOOK. POWERED BY A TREMENDOUS 2.2L BOXER STYLE 4 CYLINDER ENGINE WITH AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION THAT IS AS POWERFUL AS IT IS DEPENDABLE AND FUEL EFFICIENT. WITH GAS PRICES AVERAGES OVER $2.00 PER GALLON, THIS SUBARU CAN SAVE YOU BIG MONEY AT THE PUMP. LOADED WITH FACTORY UPGRADES, INCLUDING; AIR CONDITIONING (BLOWS ICE COLD), ALL WHEEL DRIVE POWERTRAIN (AWD), CRUISE CONTROL, POWER SUNROOF, WINDOWS, LOCKS, MIRRORS, PREMIUM SOUND SYSTEM, LIGHT TINTED GLASS, AND MORE. EXTERIOR IS IN SUPERB SHAPE, SHOWING NO BODY DAMAGE AND NO MAJOR SIGNS OF RUST, SHOWING SOME MARKINGS ON INSIDE DOOR JAMS. PAINT MAINTAINS A SHOWROOM QUALITY LUSTER AND SHOWS ONLY NORMAL ROADWEAR. INTERIOR IS IN NICE SHAPE, SHOWING NO MAJOR SIGNS OF WEAR. GLASS SUNROOF SHOWS CRACK MARKS. MECHANICALLY, A STRONG RUNNING VEHICLE THAT IS DUE FOR A TRANSMISSION SERVICE AS IT IS NOT SHIFTING PROPERLY, SEEMS FINE OTHERWISE. SO, IF YOURE IN THE MARKET FOR AN ALL WHEEL DRIVE SUBARU SEDAN BUT DONT WANT TO SPEND A BUNDLETHIS COULD BE THE ONE. Not knowing the market on the "newer" soobs what is this thing worth? Should I be afraid of the mentioned transmission "problem"? Is it most likely as they're saying a routine servicing issue? Anything else I should look for when I go to check this car out? Thanks in advance for any help.

Can a faulty single wire knock sensor be bypassed by simply grounding the harness lead or does a resistor need to be tied in? If resistance is needed, what is the correct size (i.e. one mega ohm, etc)? Mine crapped in my '87 GL turbo wagon. NAPA tells me its a dealer item only and I'm not even going to sicken myself by calling Subaru for a price. It's getting bypassed or its off to the junkyard I go.

Does anybody market a rear unit complete with new springs, or do I need to swap my springs over? How likely is it that the springs are fatigued? Should I be thinking of new springs as well? Is there a test I can do on the springs?

On the late 80's 4wd EA82 wagons (mine is a 1987 4wd turbo wagon) do the rear "shocks" need to be replaced in kind with what I'm assuming is a stock coil-over setup, or does someone make a standard replacement "shock" that would work? No off road use, strictly street driving. Thanks.

I'm pretty sure I know what the answer to my problem is but just want to get some reassurance. On my '87 GL Turbo Wagon (5-speed) I can drive around town and the temp gage acts as it should. For the entire winter my daily highway driving also had the temp gage in the middle range. On winter days where the ambient air temp reached 55 or higher it seems as if the temp gage ran way up high, and very close to the red zone. Typical symptoms of a radiator thats on it's way out? Now, how about a replacement? Are the turbo radiators heavier than the standard EA82's? Also, is a radiator from a turbo with automatic tranny heavier duty than a turbo shifter car? If you don't think the radiator is the problem where should I begin troubleshooting?