ettev

Twitch, check your email and Private Messages.

Been a while since I posted progress pics. Go here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/ Lots done since July. Complete ignition system tune-up, new coil, installed power steering, installed 100A Cadillac alternator, rebuilt oil pump, installed new water pump, installed 4" SJR lift, installed high top camper, installed factory driving light system, had a local shop cook out the radiator and test it. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff but what the hell. Now its time for some fiberglass body work. Once that's done the bed gets Rhino lined and the jump seat go in. Then paint. Still undecided between soild white with the Brat halo stripes or a complete snow camo job over the whole thing including the camper top. Stay tuned for updates. p.s. I can't seem to find the ADVANCED EDIT feature on the board anymore. I want to change the title of the thread to reflect an update date of 8/30. Moderators.............a lil' help please.

The setup described works, thanks GD. I just need to get a splined shaft from the local yard of broken dreams and cut it to length. I also loosened the steering column mounting bolts and slid the column in toward the driver about a half inch. Helped with the geometry of all the u-joints. Any noticable increase in steering wheel vibration without the rag joint?

For those of you that have lifted EA81's w/power steering (I'm working on a Brat with a 4" lift) what did you do to connect the steering after lifting the car? Did you use the power steering setup rag joint and u-joint? If so it appears as if another u-joint may be required. Also, if 2 u-joints are used did you need to go with a shaft bearing support? Any help (or better yet pictures) would be greatly appreciated. I'm doing mine in reverse. I had the lift installed now I'm installing power steering on what was originally a non-p/s Brat. Not too hard except for this steering geometry issue. Thanks.

Still doesn't mean something within the carb isn't screwed up.

Check at a local speed shop or someplace that sells aftermarket wheels. They should have a selection of center caps. You'll just need to know the diameter of the center hole you're trying to cover.

Just got done doing the Hitachi-toGM alt swap as described here: http://random.removed.us/altswap.html The alternator I got was off a 1982 Caddy. Here's my question. One of the two wires (the field signal wire) from the caddy's two pronged plug was tied back onto the output stud. Why did they do that? When I tie into my wiring harness does it make a difference if I simply eliminate that re-feed and go directly to my field signal wire, or should I leave that GM wire tie back into the output stud and splice my field wire into that? I test ran it without the wire looped back into the stud and it seems to be charging steady at 14+ volts.

Related question: Are the Gen 2 Brat alternators internally or externally regulated? If external where is it mounted?

Are the columns for a power vs. non-power setup the same on a Gen2 Brat. I know the rag joint/extension shaft universal is slightly different but how about the column from that point to the steering wheel? Same lengths, mounting locations, electrical connections, etc? Bottom line question is if I install a power steering rack and pump on a non-power steering Brat do I also need to swap out the column?

I understand your vent and agree. I've just never been one to use any kind of additives, etc. and have a tendency to lump them all in the same category. As far as the GM Cleaner I figure if a manufacturer recommends it then it must be pretty safe. Especially GM as they have always looked for ways to void warranties or walk away from problems if any sort of non-OEM part, service or fluid was used as a repair attempt. I have read very good things about the Techron fuel additive however. Unfortunately I think what is the most detrimental thing to our fuel systems and components today is the new ethanol mixes. I've heard of and seen so many accelerator pump and injector problems that many directly attribute to these new gas blends. Not sure if Techron or anything else short of redesigned replacement parts able to withdstand the chemistry can solve that issue. Keep the shiny side up.

Never liked the "snake oil" type additives. Stay old school. Stop at your local GM dealer and get some of the pourable "Top Engine Cleaner". Great instructions on the back. Cleans carbon off, you guessed it, the top end of the engine. If you want a really big and obnoxious smelling cloud of smoke this is the stuff for you. Have a neighbor you don't like, use this stuff. Run a quart of kerosene or ATF thru your engine oil at idle for about a half hour. That should clean out the rest of your gunk. Be sure to change your oil and filter before driving!

RIGHT!!!

I sympathize. I've spent the last month getting one back on the road. Good luck, and be sure to post often and let us know how you make out.

OK..seems like a loosing battle. Sell it to me!

The GM's weren't all the tough. Looking at the exploded diagram of the Hitachi it looks like the springs can be done without the need to pull the disty. Off with the rotor. Two screws come out which allows you to lift out the pickup coil, stator, magnet and advance plate. It's just a matter of finding the right tension springs and size weights to put in. Too light and advance comes in way too quick, and the car will ping like crazy. Too much so to compensate with timing adjustment. I'll pull one apart on the bench and see how it goes. Stay tuned.

I have to yank the cluster to change the oil pressure guage. The service manual I'm working out of says to lower the steering column and remove the steering wheel. Is that really necessary? Also, are there any "hidden" screws, etc I need to get to so I don't crack the bezel or the cluster? How bad is the speedo cable to disconnect or re-connect for that matter? Is there enough slack in it to get at it when the cluster is free of its dash mounting or do I need to reach up from under the dash to unclip it first? Is it just a friction fit/push-on, does it screw on the speedo, or is there some other type of clip holding it on? Finally, once I'm at the O/P guage are there any types of multimeter reading I can do on it to verify its integrity? Any other advice for cluster removal would be appreciated.

Back in the days of the GM HEI distributors we used to get a quicker advance out of the distributor by putting lighter advance weights and more importantly lighter advance weight springs in it. Has anyone tried it on the Hitachi's in these cars? If so what did you use and what results did you get. Also, is it possible to use an adjustable vacuum advance on these? Again, if so what did you use and what results were gotten?

Bad pickup coil in the distributor?

nipper and Loyale 2.7 Turbo, Thanks.

Disconnected it from the s/u. Guage stayed in same place, just below 75 psi. Sending unit is brand new NAPA. Next place to look?

Symptoms: 1985 Brat - Oil pressure dash guage reads near 75 psi all the time, hot, cold, idling, normal driving, even when the engine is shut off. Measures taken so far yielding no changes: completely rebuilt the oil pump (new o-rings, shimmed the spring, new mounting gasket, etc.) Installed new sending unit. Most likely culprit is....................._______________? If its the wire lead wear are they prone to have problems?

Pretty simple. There are two bolts in the door jamb area. The top one need not come all the way out as the fender tab is slotted for some adjustment but the lower one has to come out all the way. Then there's one down underneath near the rocker panel. This will be the hardest one to get out as it's probaby rusted fast. I think you'll also need to take off the mud flap if its still on your car. Up along the top edge are four or five bolts. Removing the wiper arms and then the cowl panel gives you access to a phillips screw that also needs to come out. Unbolt the fender brace on the forward edge of the tire ( I took mine off the chasis side which removes the brace with the fender). There are two fasteners that are used to secure the bumper. One is a nut and one is a bolt and both can be gotten from inside the wheel well. There are two bolts on the front edge of the fender just below the turn signal lens. To get at these its best to remove the headlight trim bezel which means you must first remove the center grill trim. Not bad, just a couple of phillips screws. I took my turn signal lens off just so I didn't crack it. Unplug the side marker light (in the side of the bumper) and undo the light from the turn signal lens. You'll also need to pop out the inner plastic fender skirt or at least unclip it from the outer fender. Pull the side of the bumper away from the fender so the stud clears the mounting hole then lift the fender back and up. Sounds like a lot but if you soak all the bolts, nuts and screws with PB Blaster first and none of them strip or round off you can have the fender off in 15 minutes.

For the EA81 engine gaskets is there any benefit to staying with OEM vs. aftermarket. I know on the EA82's the OEM oil pump gaskets seemed to be better than aftermarket but how about on the EA81's? In particular I need to replace the front main crank seal, the oil pump gasket and the valve cover gaskets. OEM or aftermarket?

I actually got a 20-some page guide from the military on the proper way to paint camo. Gives paint colors, stencil techniques, even theory behind camo. I think sno camo it is.