ettev

Are the columns for a power vs. non-power setup the same on a Gen2 Brat. I know the rag joint/extension shaft universal is slightly different but how about the column from that point to the steering wheel? Same lengths, mounting locations, electrical connections, etc? Bottom line question is if I install a power steering rack and pump on a non-power steering Brat do I also need to swap out the column?

I understand your vent and agree. I've just never been one to use any kind of additives, etc. and have a tendency to lump them all in the same category. As far as the GM Cleaner I figure if a manufacturer recommends it then it must be pretty safe. Especially GM as they have always looked for ways to void warranties or walk away from problems if any sort of non-OEM part, service or fluid was used as a repair attempt. I have read very good things about the Techron fuel additive however. Unfortunately I think what is the most detrimental thing to our fuel systems and components today is the new ethanol mixes. I've heard of and seen so many accelerator pump and injector problems that many directly attribute to these new gas blends. Not sure if Techron or anything else short of redesigned replacement parts able to withdstand the chemistry can solve that issue. Keep the shiny side up.

Never liked the "snake oil" type additives. Stay old school. Stop at your local GM dealer and get some of the pourable "Top Engine Cleaner". Great instructions on the back. Cleans carbon off, you guessed it, the top end of the engine. If you want a really big and obnoxious smelling cloud of smoke this is the stuff for you. Have a neighbor you don't like, use this stuff. Run a quart of kerosene or ATF thru your engine oil at idle for about a half hour. That should clean out the rest of your gunk. Be sure to change your oil and filter before driving!

RIGHT!!!

I sympathize. I've spent the last month getting one back on the road. Good luck, and be sure to post often and let us know how you make out.

OK..seems like a loosing battle. Sell it to me!

The GM's weren't all the tough. Looking at the exploded diagram of the Hitachi it looks like the springs can be done without the need to pull the disty. Off with the rotor. Two screws come out which allows you to lift out the pickup coil, stator, magnet and advance plate. It's just a matter of finding the right tension springs and size weights to put in. Too light and advance comes in way too quick, and the car will ping like crazy. Too much so to compensate with timing adjustment. I'll pull one apart on the bench and see how it goes. Stay tuned.

I have to yank the cluster to change the oil pressure guage. The service manual I'm working out of says to lower the steering column and remove the steering wheel. Is that really necessary? Also, are there any "hidden" screws, etc I need to get to so I don't crack the bezel or the cluster? How bad is the speedo cable to disconnect or re-connect for that matter? Is there enough slack in it to get at it when the cluster is free of its dash mounting or do I need to reach up from under the dash to unclip it first? Is it just a friction fit/push-on, does it screw on the speedo, or is there some other type of clip holding it on? Finally, once I'm at the O/P guage are there any types of multimeter reading I can do on it to verify its integrity? Any other advice for cluster removal would be appreciated.

Back in the days of the GM HEI distributors we used to get a quicker advance out of the distributor by putting lighter advance weights and more importantly lighter advance weight springs in it. Has anyone tried it on the Hitachi's in these cars? If so what did you use and what results did you get. Also, is it possible to use an adjustable vacuum advance on these? Again, if so what did you use and what results were gotten?

Bad pickup coil in the distributor?

nipper and Loyale 2.7 Turbo, Thanks.

Disconnected it from the s/u. Guage stayed in same place, just below 75 psi. Sending unit is brand new NAPA. Next place to look?

Symptoms: 1985 Brat - Oil pressure dash guage reads near 75 psi all the time, hot, cold, idling, normal driving, even when the engine is shut off. Measures taken so far yielding no changes: completely rebuilt the oil pump (new o-rings, shimmed the spring, new mounting gasket, etc.) Installed new sending unit. Most likely culprit is....................._______________? If its the wire lead wear are they prone to have problems?

Pretty simple. There are two bolts in the door jamb area. The top one need not come all the way out as the fender tab is slotted for some adjustment but the lower one has to come out all the way. Then there's one down underneath near the rocker panel. This will be the hardest one to get out as it's probaby rusted fast. I think you'll also need to take off the mud flap if its still on your car. Up along the top edge are four or five bolts. Removing the wiper arms and then the cowl panel gives you access to a phillips screw that also needs to come out. Unbolt the fender brace on the forward edge of the tire ( I took mine off the chasis side which removes the brace with the fender). There are two fasteners that are used to secure the bumper. One is a nut and one is a bolt and both can be gotten from inside the wheel well. There are two bolts on the front edge of the fender just below the turn signal lens. To get at these its best to remove the headlight trim bezel which means you must first remove the center grill trim. Not bad, just a couple of phillips screws. I took my turn signal lens off just so I didn't crack it. Unplug the side marker light (in the side of the bumper) and undo the light from the turn signal lens. You'll also need to pop out the inner plastic fender skirt or at least unclip it from the outer fender. Pull the side of the bumper away from the fender so the stud clears the mounting hole then lift the fender back and up. Sounds like a lot but if you soak all the bolts, nuts and screws with PB Blaster first and none of them strip or round off you can have the fender off in 15 minutes.

For the EA81 engine gaskets is there any benefit to staying with OEM vs. aftermarket. I know on the EA82's the OEM oil pump gaskets seemed to be better than aftermarket but how about on the EA81's? In particular I need to replace the front main crank seal, the oil pump gasket and the valve cover gaskets. OEM or aftermarket?

I actually got a 20-some page guide from the military on the proper way to paint camo. Gives paint colors, stencil techniques, even theory behind camo. I think sno camo it is.

Exterior finish for this: A) Solid White with the red/black halo Brat stripes (back to stock) or Snow camo (possibly with a solid base color below lower trim strips) or C) Other (post your suggestion) It will also have a tall cap on the back so it will get painted the same as the body. Interior is blue. Should I keep the body trim strips on the sides or pull them and fill in the mounting holes?

More cosmetic work today. I need to fix a leaking brake line then its off for the lift install. Check back later in the week or next weekend.

Give the starter a couple of whacks with a hammer or whatever else you can get in at it with. If there's a high spot on the armature a good hard whack may free it up enough to crank. There may also be a fusible link in the starter circuit, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Maybe someone else will know and post.

If installing a lift kit on the EA81 chasis is it still ok to extend the posture adjustments on the front struts or should they be left in the normal position. Also, a general question about these adjusters: what is the max length you can get out of the fronts? I think I ran mine until the stop pin bottomed out on the strut coil cup and that gave me about 1 3/8" of lift. Does this sound about right?

This relay/switch/??? is mounted on the rear cab panel of my '85 Brat. It's near the floor at the drive shaft tunnel area and is normally hidden by the interior plastic trim panel. What is it?

Looks like all of the structurally augmentation was wrapped up tonight. Not a lot to show for it though. One really heavy duty patch on the drivers front frame horn, rocker panel patches on both sides, and a lot of reattaching of removed parts. Got the rear end back up into place and we reinstalled the gas tank. Since I pulled it to do the structural work I had a local shop cook it out and check it for leaks. All good! Sprayed the top with rubberized undercoating, reinstalled the sending unit and back up she went. All new hoses and clamps too. We got rid of the short metal fuel return lines that come thru the rubber grommet in the passengers rear wheel area and went back in with new rubber lines. Alas, the magic spray from PennDOT's winter road pre-treatment got to the metal lines. Reinstalled the trailer hitch. Test fit the front brush guard but didn't install it until the rest of the body work is finished. Put the old set of shocks back on temporarily until the new Ranchos go on in conjunction with the lift kit. LOTS of tool clean-up, etc. Well that just about does it for this portion of the work. Stay tuned for future work including lift kit install, finished body work, reinstallation of interior plushies, installation of the camper top and finally the paint job. All should start next week and run for another month or two. As long as you're all reading this let me ask for opinions. Should I keep all the high thin and low thicker side body moldings on this thing or take them off and fill in the holes prior to painting? I'd need to pull them anyway to do some rust repair behind a few of the mounting locations so either way is no extra work. What would look best? As for paint the boy and I were really liking the idea of a dull snow camo job. My brother-in-law says go back all white with the original red/black/white halo stripes. I am putting a high topper on it and was going to paint it to match the truck wheter its snow camo or something else. If it matters the interior on this one is blue, not grey and I'm going with a set of 15" Pugeot alloys with swampers. All opinions are welcome.

I found a guy with NOS wheel wells. Still has 7 of one side and 2 or 3 of the other. Price.......salty. $350 per side.

I would have really liked to have gotten a bit more "creative" with this one but beggars can't be choosers.

It's more like me helping him. He's a fabricator/welder/machinist by trade. Pays to know (or in this case, be related to) the right people!