ettev

Pin your ears back and go at it. Hard.

Wasn't sure if anyone was looking at the pics. Anyway, thanks everyone. Its been a fun project so far. I just drove the Brat to my friends garage to have a custom exhaust bent up for it. I'll post pics when I get it back this weekend. Also, I just scored a set of power mirrors as well as some interesting interior upgrades like a 2-stepped angled radio bezel that will allow the install of a modern DIN receiver (along with a Sirius setup!), and a high rise center storage console/armrest at the emergency brake area. It's coming together nicely. Soon time for fine body work and paint. Decided to go with a either solid bright white or a metallic white instead of the snow camo. I have a set of original unused red Soob halo decals that I'm going to take to our local auto graphics guru. She's going to reproduce a set of them using snow camo film so that should look pretty neat, and I'll have something a bit different at the end of it all. Probably going to media blast the Pugeot alloys and get them powder coated. Just have to decide if I want to go silver with them or perhaps charcoal or black. Thoughts or suggestions? Also, if anyone has a source for the rubber gasket/seal that's on the bottom of these high camper tops please let me know. I've absolutely stumped all the camper dealers in my area with this shell. They all say they've never seen anything like it.

Glad to see the site back up. Some new pictures from the '85 Brat rebuild. Check it out: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/

I just fit one from a 1982 wagon into my 1985 Brat. Starts on page 5. Check it out: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/

Don't use steel wool. Use automotive grade sandpaper. I never used soap, just straight water. Keep the paper and the surface very wet.

Are they Subaru numbers?

Wet sand it with 1200 grit then buff it with a low grit compound. Finish with the wax of your choice.

PM sent!

Are replacement lamps still available for the '82 center grill cyclops lights from either Subaru or aftermarket? If so and you remember the place to buy them or even a part/lamp number please post.

Here's the Opel. It's a 1970. Some of my other stuff too. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157607392827287/detail/

I did put new flat seal tape on it, but I'm talking about the actual rubber gasket on the bottom edge of the camper top. It looks kind of specialized having a flap leg that comes out over the bed trim strips.

Does anyone make replacement weatherstrips for the soob toppers? Here's the style I have:

More updates as of 9/14/2004. Rhino Lining, back seats, cyclops light. Check it out: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/

They are nice kits. How do you do the cutouts? Water router, plasma torch?

Updates as of September 6, 2008. Some fiberglass work around the new wheel wells and bed patches. Soon time for Rhino Lining. The new Weber carb is on the way too. That goes on the first weekend of October. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=5

Just did one this weekend on a GL Brat. Got the shaft from NAPA. Fit correctly and no clicking. I think it was $65. As long as you're rooting around you may as well change the ball joint. That was $18 at NAPA. Both parts had to be ordered and they were in the next day. As posted by member General Disorder: Roll pin. Inner control arm bolt. Sway bar link. Pull axle off tranny. Drive axle out of knuckle. Reverse for installation. Check out these threads as well: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90831 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Twitch, check your email and Private Messages.

Been a while since I posted progress pics. Go here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/ Lots done since July. Complete ignition system tune-up, new coil, installed power steering, installed 100A Cadillac alternator, rebuilt oil pump, installed new water pump, installed 4" SJR lift, installed high top camper, installed factory driving light system, had a local shop cook out the radiator and test it. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff but what the hell. Now its time for some fiberglass body work. Once that's done the bed gets Rhino lined and the jump seat go in. Then paint. Still undecided between soild white with the Brat halo stripes or a complete snow camo job over the whole thing including the camper top. Stay tuned for updates. p.s. I can't seem to find the ADVANCED EDIT feature on the board anymore. I want to change the title of the thread to reflect an update date of 8/30. Moderators.............a lil' help please.

The setup described works, thanks GD. I just need to get a splined shaft from the local yard of broken dreams and cut it to length. I also loosened the steering column mounting bolts and slid the column in toward the driver about a half inch. Helped with the geometry of all the u-joints. Any noticable increase in steering wheel vibration without the rag joint?

For those of you that have lifted EA81's w/power steering (I'm working on a Brat with a 4" lift) what did you do to connect the steering after lifting the car? Did you use the power steering setup rag joint and u-joint? If so it appears as if another u-joint may be required. Also, if 2 u-joints are used did you need to go with a shaft bearing support? Any help (or better yet pictures) would be greatly appreciated. I'm doing mine in reverse. I had the lift installed now I'm installing power steering on what was originally a non-p/s Brat. Not too hard except for this steering geometry issue. Thanks.

Still doesn't mean something within the carb isn't screwed up.

Check at a local speed shop or someplace that sells aftermarket wheels. They should have a selection of center caps. You'll just need to know the diameter of the center hole you're trying to cover.

Just got done doing the Hitachi-toGM alt swap as described here: http://random.removed.us/altswap.html The alternator I got was off a 1982 Caddy. Here's my question. One of the two wires (the field signal wire) from the caddy's two pronged plug was tied back onto the output stud. Why did they do that? When I tie into my wiring harness does it make a difference if I simply eliminate that re-feed and go directly to my field signal wire, or should I leave that GM wire tie back into the output stud and splice my field wire into that? I test ran it without the wire looped back into the stud and it seems to be charging steady at 14+ volts.

Related question: Are the Gen 2 Brat alternators internally or externally regulated? If external where is it mounted?