ettev

All good stuff. I normally will use a Wix, NAPA Gold or Pulalator. Thought since I have these on the shelf I'd try them. I drop the oil (Castrol GTX)and filter simultaneously, and religiously between 3,500 and 4,000.

So are they any good? Extended use or not?

Anybody using them? I have had a couple HP2008's for a while and its correct for the '85 Brat. Good, bad, or blah blah blah blah? Are they an extended use filter like the air filters or are they tyipically good for one oil cycle like any other filter?

+1

I'd say alt/alt belt. I install new ones pretty taught with little deflection. Not so tight that your stressing alt bearings though. Maybe 1/2" deflection.

I have a new 2" setup as well from the Y-pipe all the way back. Cut the cat open on the top side and gutted it then put it back in the system for visual emmissions inspection. Again 2" from there back thru a real small cherry bomb and out the back again with a 2" pipe. HUGE difference when coupled with the weber. Always remember, modifying the gulping side won't yield the desired effects without working on the farting side too.

Yep, my issue is with the sending unit for the dash gauge.

Yep, I remember a few years ago EA81's and EA82's used to be like grains of sand on the beach in our local junk yards. They've long since been crushed and its rare to even find one around here to yank parts from, especially an EA81 buggy. I remember seeing cars with 3rd eyes, factory fog light setups, Brats, turbo Brats, etc, etc, etc. Man, to go back a few years in time and just stock pile all that stuff. Oh well.

So the temp gauge on my '85 Brat just stopped working tonight. Probably a bad temp sensor on the intake right? Cleaned the lead connector as well as the sensor prong.....still nothing. The electric fan does kicks on and off properly. What's the correct test for a single prong sensor? Set a meter to read ohms, one lead to sensor prong the other to ground.....watch for resistance drop as coolant heats up.....if no resistance drop bad sending unit? Where is the ground for that harness that the sensor wire goes in to? What's the test for the dash gauge to see if its faulty? I'm leaning toward either the sensor or the wire/ground because I can see the dash gauge bouncing ever so slightly.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/bumper.html

Does the radio console need to come out to get to the heater console out?

That heater console was literally the one interior part I didn't have out when I re-constructed this Brat!

Yep, and theoretically you wouldn't even need the roll pins. How could the inner end possibly slide off the output stubs? I don't think there could ever be that much travel or flex or movement of the front wheel/strut to pop the inner splines off the trans. Unless there's catastrophic failure!

Is the heater control area supposed to be back-lighted? I'm talking about both radial control knobs (fan speed and temperature) and the output slider selector below them. My '85 Brat isn't and it seems like it should be.

+1 .......... same mods on mine. I might be a tad better than 24. Depends on my mood as to how heavy I am on the pedal.

That's perfect. I'm picturing you stopped at a red light and having people cross the street in front of this baby! Can you say "photo op"?

Here ya' go............better yet!! In addition to my previous idea get one of these and throw it on. zzz:Flame: I remember seeing these things years ago and wasn't sure if they were still made. But.....J C Whitney to the rescue. The home of everything Rube Goldberg! Be sure to read the "Overview". Classic! http://www.jcwhitney.com/cast-iron-exhaust-cutout/p2006307.jcwx

Put one of Scott's urban assault bumpers on the front along with a set of sharpened Texas Longhorn horns on the hood. You'll scatter some people.

So is it a bad caliper or is it just that the slides aren't functioning correctly? Slides are all greased and slide freely when the caliper is swung up out of the way. But as mentioned I don't think dynamite would loosen the piston so it could be turned back in. What causes the caliper piston to not turn back into the bore? Corrosion? Collapsed rubber brake hose?

The actual headlight switch gone bad?

Passenger side caliper is frozen tight. I couldn't turn the piston back in even if I had the power of 2 mules and a small boy. Figured out which one was hanging up by driving it a few miles then giving each wheel/rotor a shot of garden hose. Presto! Looked like a dry cleaners steam pipe coming off the passenger side. What has me stumped is why the outboard pad is almost completely worn down but the inboard pad looks as thick as the day I put it on. Wonder why?

I used a large nail with similar diameter for a short time until I got the right pin. Just slipped it thru and slightly bent the pointed tip to keep it in place. I also use that same size nail as a drift to knock the pins out. I grind the point off for that though just so it doesn't get stuck inside the end of the pin.

Cap is new/good. Visually confirmed it comes out of the overflow hose. Yep, going to swap the caliper soon. Probably will throw a new hose on it too as long as I'm in there.

Have a front caliper hanging up on my '85 Brat which is naturally causing the engine to run a bit hotter than normal. While the electric fan works I noticed that after I park it and shut off the motor I have coolant pushing out of the radiator overflow hose onto the ground. The radiator was professionally cleaned last year and I'm sure the caliper replacement will cure the overheating. But I got to thinking why isn't there an overflow bottle on these? Has anyone retrofit one in? I think I'm going to get one from an EA82 and throw it over on the inside of the drivers fender where my evap canister used to be. Anyone see any problems doing this?