ettev

Minor rust! Come to Pennsylvania. But seriously. I just did a 1984 wagon that had rockers MUCH worse than that. Found a guy in Cali that cut a set out of a car he was scraping and sent them to me. Tacked a 11/2" angle underneath the car to act as the bottom hem to weld the rockers to. Really stiffened up the car too! Seam-sealed them in, undercoated them and painted them out the color of the car. I'll try to snap a few pics later.

Thanks man. I'll give it a try over the weekend.

Is it possible to take these things apart to get them working again? If so, how? I have one that is fully unrolled and the return springs aren't pulling it back in. It's in an EA81 wagon so they're not that easy to find anymore. Anyone?

I'm in east-central Pennsylvania too and we get some, uhhh, interesting winter weather. My EA81's lifted are pretty good but I still say the absolute best vehicle I ever had for getting thru tough winter road conditions was my 88 GL 5-speed. Had 205-15" true winter snow tires mounted up, no lift, and that thing went anywhere, anyplace in any conditions.

Yep, agreed on this. I also always order engine stuff for ANY EA81 by selecting 1984 BRAT. It eliminates having to deal with any VIN options.

I'm starring at a new bow of them right now: From RockAuto...Stock #8002, Part # RC-FE22.

Welcome. I think you'll enjoy that car. Sounds like a sweetheart, low miles and good body. That's a win - win. Throw some pictures on here.

Just my opinion: 1. I've been told by some pretty good wrenches that unless you're rebuilding the engine with all new gaskets stay with the oil you've been running. So, unless you're rebuilding your EA81 stay with the dino oil or run the risk of leaks out of gasketed joints. 2. It's a Group III oil, which I believe is considered natural oil. If I'm not mistaken there was a lot of flack about the name "Syntec" in that it was misleading in making people think it was pure synthetic. 3. So they claim. But so will dino oil if it's changed regularly. 4. Not sure.....never use it. But all the articles I've read claim synthetic yields slightly better mileage. 5. Oh boy, here comes a flame war. I like heavier oil weights especially on higher mileage cars. One of my good mechanic friends tells me I'm nuts and that anything over 10W30 is too heavy for anything regardless of mileage. I run 10W40 or 20W50 in my EA81's with no ill effects.

That's a sweetheart. More pics. Nice job. Do you have the center caps for those wheels? If not maybe someone on here has an extra set for you.

12" long 2" in/out glass pack. Sounds great.

Interesting. Anyway, this project I'm working on has a few small rust areas on the body I want to fix. The supply place mixed me two rattle bombs of the Cosmic Blue in the bc/cc formula and gave me a rattle can of clear topcoat. And yes, I think if I run the sheepskin wheel over this on the buffer I could get a respectable appearance out of her. Not bad for a 25 year old car. That would never happen with a GM or Ford paint job from that era!

Thanks. The guy at my local paint supply store looked it up and told me it was base coat/clear coat. I didn't think they started bc/cc until later in the 80's. Go figure.

Throttle cable binding causing carb to remain open. Install a throttle return spring.

What paint material were the 80's EA81's painted with at the factory? (Lacquer, enamel, urethane, etc)

Nice ride.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101696 http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=10

Rick, What size Interstate do you use in your EA81's? I know that sometimes a slightly physically larger battery with more CCA fit in vehicles above what is spec'd.

I picked up a set of 28x14 Bias TSl Swampers mounted on 14" steelie Peugeot's. How are they in snow? Gonna be mounted on my kids '84 lifted GL and I'm sure it will see its share of mud. But how about snow? We get some "interesting" snowfalls here in eastern Pennsylvania. Want to give him the best all around tire to drive on. Hoping these fit the bill.

I never coated the outer edge with anything either and never had a problem (watch, now that I've said that this latest one I just put in will leak!). Clean the block seal seat to remove any old material. Get it started as straight as you can and use a wood block and hammer to tap it in.

I just wired one up using Mick's DPDT Relay plan and it works like a charm. I'm using an original Subaru center lamp switch to operate it.

Not bad. I'm doing an 84 GL wagon now and am thinking of shooting the entire thing matte black. Zap has a hatch on his website that is done that way and it looks awesome.

Aren't pistons from a turbo always lower compression than others?

C'mon! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! DO IT!

Seventh from the bottom of the chart in this link. Select the "specifications" tab:: http://www.maxxis.com/AutomobileLight-Truck/Light-Truck-SUV/MT-762-Bighorn.aspx

Sounds like a normal soob with an auto!