ettev

I've been going to all the Carlisle events since the very first ones way back when I was a young boy. Went with my dad all the time. I remember my dad having a neat little Italian car manufactured by Lancia. I'm thinking it was a late 50's/early 60's Appia model. It was a 4-door with the suicide door setup. I've been looking for years to see another one and have yet to find one. To this day he says he should have kept that car. He dumped it way before I was of age to drive.

Was there for a few hours Saturday. Was hoping to catch up with you Paul. One other member said your were there but they hadn't seen you in a while. Had my kids '84 GL with me.

Paul, any particular place on the show field you guys meet/park as a group? In the "Asian" area someplace or out in general parking? If I can get a master cylinder thrown on my rebuilt Brat by Friday maybe I'll take a ride down. If not maybe I'll bring the kids '84 wagon down (looking to talk someone into doing an EJ swap on it for me!!!). Work 1/2 hour from fairgrounds. Live 90 minutes hours north, drive it everyday.

Wow. Great info as always Rick. Thanks.

Is there anywhere online that indicates what different capacity oil filters can be used for the same application? (i.e. What filter would be the same as our EA81's that might hold another few ounces of oil by virtue of being a bit longer. A Purolator #PL24457 is 4.02" long, but a Purolator #PLXXXXX is the same thread size but maybe 6.35" long). Another example is that I know my one GM car specs an AC Delco oil filter #PF47, but if I buy a PF52 I get the same basic filter only the 52 is about 2 inches longer. Specifically, I'm looking to determine what a longer filter would be for a Purolator #PL10241.

I just picked up a really well maintained Lexus RX300 with the standard issue 3.0L Toyota engine. I've been reading a lot and see that these engines have been prone to sludging issues (or gelling as some call it). Apparently it has to do with an inadequate PCV system design: http://www.toyoland.com/sludge.html While mine hasn't exhibited any of the symptoms (yet) I was wondering if there's any proactive measures one could take to minimize the risk. I understand running full synthetic virtually eliminates the risk but my concern is if the engine has some sludge in it won't going to full synthetic with its high detergent properties possibly loosen the sludge and block oil passages, oil pickup tube, etc? On my older, normally aspirated engines I used to run a qurt of kerosene thru it for a 15 minute parked idle prior to changing oil and filter to "clean" the inside of the engine. I hesitate to do that with newer engines though. Do you think one solution would be to run a valve cover breather filter in lieu of the oil fill cap? What effect (good or bad) could that have? Would it screw up any electronically monitored signals (MAP, etc)? Thanks for any thoughts.

Keep soaking them and trying to work them free. High speed wire brush them when you get them out and coat them with anti-seize when you reinstall them.

I see how it could work but my luck would have the glass shattering the second I touch it!

Unbelievable! My kids 84 GL wagon key opened it!

Any tricks to getting into a Gen2 Brat without a key? And breaking glass is not an option! :-\

You can buy just the K&N base from Redline, etc. That way you can always go back with the rectangular K&N if you want.

Cold weather option. Uses a kidney K&N, exhaust heat stove pipe and stock lid. All vacuum pipes crimped and welded closed.

Never had that happen! Would it even matter? Top and bottom are still sealed tight avaunt base plate and lid, correct?

Concrete expansion bolt. Skinny one to fit inside the wrist pin. Turn nut to expand and pull on it with visegrips.

Interesting. I've never had any problems with either the short or tall K&N filters fitting or maintaing shape. Try bending the lid clamps so they don't put so much pressure on the lid.

Thanks Rick. Who sells those axles? Buy direct from EMPI?

I guess I'll try MWE as well. Was wondering what assemblies Rock Auto sells. have always had good luck with stuff they peddle.

Miles, it's a body lift. By a differential drop are you referring to the rear end? My issue is on the front right side. Never any problems (knock wood) with rear joints using these lifts.

On a 4" lifted EA81 wagon I keep wiping out inboard passenger side CV boots (hence joints). Struts are not raised with factory adjusters. What the hell!?!? This last replacement shaft lasted exactly 2 weeks and that's no real heavy off road stuff either. All have been bought thru NAPA. Why does this keep happening, and why just the right side one? Are some replacement shafts better than others? If so, where do I get them? Also, does anyone know of longer replacement boots to install instead of replacing shafts all the time? Seems like a boot a bit longer may take the changed geometry and flex the lift kit creates.

So how do they differ than the snap ring retainers?

Can't be that bad, they just press out of the yokes like all the older car u-joints, right?

I've done a few of these that just don't seem to line up. I swear they drill the holes off a half tooth on some. For those I grind the roll pin down a bit and only tap it in about half way. I coat them with high temp grease too.

Thanks all. I'll grab 2 new u-joints and pop them in.

987687........did you just change the u-joints or the whole drive shaft?

Nope, but ironically the inner CV boot was ripped on this side. I thought thats what the noise was and replace the whole CV shaft. All nuts torqued to spec and still the noise remains.