ettev

Earl, That looks great. Agreed on the XXL sizes, please make some up. I also liked the posted idea about a sticker. Round would be cool similar to your shop decal. I'd be in for one or 2 of those as well. Mike

Isn't that lower fender attachment a bolted connection to the unibody? I think I undercoated the hell out of the back of the fenders and the body cowl area and then used some flat washers between the fender and the unibody to keep a gap there for stuff to escape or be hosed out through. It's usually stuff like leaves, swamp residue, etc that clogs up the that area. Just lays in there rusting stuff apart. Worst case just pop that bolt out of the bottom a couple times a year and give it a good power washing from up top.

Yep, I'll bet. This problem feels more like a brake hanging up. What is throwing me is that if it were a front one getting stuck wouldn't the car pull to that side? Mine isn't pulling at all. What does the hill holder control? Both front brakes, all 4 brakes, or just one wheel? I'm thinking it's the hill holder not releasing all the way.

Yep, I've felt that. Doubt that's what it is, but in case I ever contract a case of it how is it fixed? Pop the truck in and out of 4WD and drive it around?

What's this?

I found that online a while ago myself. IT appears as if they are only listing a Gen 1 roll bar. Wonder if they have a template for a Gen 2? That's what I've been hunting.

It feels as though I have either a caliper slightly sticking on or the hill holder not completely releasing all the way. Is there an easy way to isolate which brake could be hanging up? Also, what's the correct adjustment procedure for the hillholder. I'd like to keep it functional and not bypass it if I can at all do so.

What's it made of? One ply, 2 plies?

Not necessarily. I did a PS conversion using my non-PS cross member. You just need to make dimensional location notes of the isolation block mounting holes from the PS xmember and drill them in the same place on you non-PS xmember.

I finally got around to getting my tonneau cover finished. I have 2 more grommets to install as well as one or two universal bows. These were taken with the camera on my Blackberry so they're kinda' grainy. I'll post better pics when I get it outside in the sun. What do you guys think? http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=11

My Bentley manual says "To raise the rear ride height, turn the adjusting nut clockwise. To lower the rear ride height, turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise". Naturally this is as viewed looking down on the top of the adjusting nut.

A few questions: 1) Does turning the ride height adjusting pivot bolt in the center have the same effect as clocking the torsion bar within the tube? What's the difference and which is better? 2) Does turning the ride height adjusting pivot bolt stiffen the rear suspension or just adjust ride height? 3) Does clocking the the torsion bar within the tube stiffen the rear suspension or just adjust ride height? 4) Should the ride height adjusting pivot bolt be adjusted alone or in conjunction with clocking the bar within the tube. I'm not so much after increased ride height as I'm already running one of Scott's 4" lifts. I just want to stiffen the back end up. The longer Rancho's are too soft for me and the 15's I have installed rub like hell on the rear leg of the rear wheel well opening. , even doing light driving or making a typical cornering turn.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/

Got a 1984 GL Wagon with a bad windshield. Will all the other EA81 windshields of that era fit as a replacement. Or are the 2-doors different fromt the 4-doors are different from the Brat's etc. Have a line on a 1983 windshield (don't know what body it came out of) and want to make sure it will work before I buy it.

Anybody running them on the rear with a 4" lift? If so can you tell me make and part number? Been looking for a while and can't seem to locate one that substitutes the Rancho's. Closest I found on a thread here was a Gabriel Hi Jacker #49310 but it doesn't look the same.

I have the standard Weber w/electric choke on my Brat. Bought it brand new and was pretty much was a direct bolt-on without any fine tuning. When the choke is engaged the thing runs awesome. When it warms up it seems to lack what I would have expected to be a bit more power/pickup. I do have a feeling it's running on the rich side. Could out of adjustment mixture do this or is it more likely something else?

Do you mean actually sending the Rancho's away to be converted into air shocks or trying to find an identical shock configuration to the Rancho that is already air? Been years since I've even thought about air shocks. They were "THE" thing in the late 70's/early 80's along with traction bars! Who makes 'em anymore?

Anybody running EA82 struts on the back of an EA81? I have a Brat lifted 4" that to me is a bit too soft of a ride with the longer Rancho shocks. What's involved with making the EA82 struts work, especially with a 4" lift? If anyone has pics or can fab a set of mounts let me know. Pics would really be helpful.

Anybody have an upgrade idea/solution for stiffening up the rear suspension on a Gen2 Brat? I'm running the longer Rancho shocks with a 4" lift. It just seems way to soft and sags a bit too much with stuff in the bed for my liking. What does the threaded adjustment on top of the torsion bar do? Is that for firming it up or just providing a bit more lift (or both)? I remember someone had installed an EA82 rear strut package on on of these some time back but I don't remember if it was lifted or not.

+1............and on northeast cars too. Getting the passenger side balljoint out may have been THE most difficult thing I had to do across all the work I did on my Brat. Finally I gave up and let the alignment shop guys get it out. They said it was one of the hardest ones they ever had! Moog for replacements though!

I'm in the market for one of those for a Brat as well. Scott? Pics?

I found these that I'm going to try: http://lugnutking.com/lugnuts.htm Part #1906. Do you think they look the same?

Fenders trimmed, camper off, stereo tweeked, military star on the hood. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=11 My friends I think it might be a wrap. Time for a cold pitcher of beer, a CAO America cigar and very possibly a roll in the hay with the wife. Life is good. Thanks to all who followed this project. I really enjoyed sharing with everyone. Now, about that other '85 Brat I have...........hmmmmmm.

Tomorrow should be the last day of the project. Install the hood decals, trim the front fenders where the new tires rub, pop the camper off and cleanup some over spray and install the toneau cover mounting hardware. Here are pics of the new 205/75-15 General Grabber AT2's mounted on the refurbished Pug alloys. QUESTION: Does anyone have a functional replacement lugnut suggestion for these Pug alloys? Preferably chrome. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26905545@N07/sets/72157605926523746/detail/?page=10

Man, that underside isn't bad at all. Looks like the front outrigger on the drivers side is the worst part. Get some 20-something gauge sheetmetal and someone that can weld and patch it. Coat the whole area with a heavy fiberous roofing tar or something similar after the patchwork. I'd get that whole underneath cleaned up and patched and put it on the road. Work on the mechanicals next and finish it with body work. Honestly, the thing that would bother me the most with that project is the cracked dash. Don't be discouraged, you have a vehicle that's very fixable. Just pin your ears back and go at it!