bobs97c5

Thanks for the response Scott. So what have others done to fix the rear camber issue? Or is it even worth fixing? Besides poor tire wear, there shouldn't be any other issues I'd assume.

Thanks. Sorry for the confusion. 10-4, remove the ECU for my Weber'ed EA82 and call it good. Thanks Gloyale.

I do believe the AA lift leaves the rear diff in the stock location. By lowering the rear diff I assume I can not only relieve some stress on the rear axles but from your statement it sounds like this would resolve my rear camber issue too. Is this correct?

I'd like to thank [HTi]Johnson (Head Trauma Inc) for his great work on my rear bumper and roof rack for my 86 GL Wagon. They look great, the install was easy, and the build quality is nice. There was a bit of an issue shipping the roof rack at first due to it's size but Jason was able to work it out and get it shipped to me. Jason was a pleasure to do business with and I recommend his products to anyone on the forum. I can't wait to get a pair of the tail light covers he is working on. PICS: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wav39XIJmciOWMYIljj8bg?authkey=Gv1sRgCMKqmKaOv6K8-gE&feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UZ67KgwGMjbB0FS2En612Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCMKqmKaOv6K8-gE&feat=directlink

What purpose does the O2 sensor serve if you no longer have the stock carb and have upgraded to a Weber? The reason I ask is that I have upgraded to a Weber and also get the ECS code 32 after driving about 8 miles.

You can't forget man's best friend. I always bring my dog. I also always bring a side arm or some other form of self defense (AK-47, whatever). You never know what kind of meth head hill billy or illegal immigrant pot grower you'll run across out in the woods. In fact, there was a guy 4wheelin on Monday locally that got shot by a miner who had "claimed," some public land that he was mining on. Poor guy almost got shot in the chest but his friend batted the shotgun away so that only his arm got shot. Now it looks like they're going to amputate his arm. Story here: http://www.mailtribune.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20090408/NEWS/904080319

I saw this car for sale on the Portland Craigslist. Good buy!

I'm sure this has been discussed on the forum, but I didn't find any good threads explaining what my options are for fixing the camber for the rear wheels on my 4" lifted Subaru GL Wagon. I have a 4" lift from Allied Armament, 215/75R15 (28") tires, and KYB GR2 coilovers in the rear: Pic here: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jHjeZvAsLgAgT4CJ0XPpMA?authkey=Gv1sRgCMKqmKaOv6K8-gE&feat=directlink What can I do to fix this camber? Are there adjustments that can be made or will I need something else? Thanks! Bobby Edit: If this needs to be moved to the Off-Road forum, then moderators please do so.

I have an 86 GL wagon. If I turn the ignition to the accessory mode then my ECU also flashes the 73 code. According to the Haynes manual, all that means is that you have a GL 4x4 wagon from Cali. I don't have the Haynes manual in front of me now, so I don't recall the exact description. All the code is really telling you is a description of your car. If your ECS light comes on, then look at what code comes up while your ECS light is on. If it's intermittent then pull over to the side of the road when the light is on without turning off the car to check the code. Anyway, my GL was having the ECS come on intermittently and I discovered that the 73 code is just a designation of the car. Good luck.

We should meet up to compare setups. I was wondering if you removed all of the solenoid valves on the driver's side of the intake manifold. Those are still on my car, but it doesn't seem like they are needed. I also wasn't sure what vacuum advance hoses are needed after the Weber install. On my Weber the vacuum advance fitting is capped off. I still have the two vacuum advance hoses hooked up going to the distributor, but I think someone mentioned only one of them is necessary after the Weber install. Let me know if you want to meet up sometime. I work in Medford at RVMC.

What year and model Subaru do you have? It looks like an EA82. I have an 86 GL Wagon with a 32/36 DGEV Weber. Do you live in Medford, OR? If so I'm just a few mintues south in Ashland. As for the 2 hoses, I have those plugged off. I removed both hoses and capped the metal fittings off at the firewall. Make sure to use hose clamps to make sure no fuel leaks out. As for the vacuum fittings coming off of the intake manifold, those are all capped with vacuum plugs on my EA82 intake manifold. As for the coolant fitting on the coolant tube, that is no longer needed and can be capped off too. I actually had it welded closed on mine. I also had the coolant passageway at the carb base welded closed as well. Shortly after the intial install of my Weber, coolant was getting sucked in from the carb base to the combustion chamber. I thought I had blown a head gasket but it was just the stupid carb base gasket. Since coolant doesn't go through the Weber I had that entire coolant passageway welded close. It has run wonderfully ever since. ~Bobby

Thanks for the roof rack and rear bumper! http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wav39XIJmciOWMYIljj8bg?authkey=Gv1sRgCMKqmKaOv6K8-gE&feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UZ67KgwGMjbB0FS2En612Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCMKqmKaOv6K8-gE&feat=directlink

So I only need to leave one of the vacuum advance lines hooked up for the disty? Which one? Can I get rid of the 3 solenoids pictured above or are they actually doing anything at this point? Thanks!

Okay, so it sounds like rather than dealing with the ECS code I should just unplug my ECU and call it good.

Still safer than a motorcycle IMO.

I just replaced the two prong temp sensor as you can see in the last picture. As for the sensor used for the temp gauge, I don't know where to find that one. I could only find one temp sensor. When I went to NAPA they also said there was a one prong temp sensor for the temp gauge, but still I don't see that anywhere on my EA82.

I have an 86 GL Wagon EA82 with Weber carb, and I have a few questions I am hoping someone can help me with. My ECS light comes on after about 8 miles of driving and the code I get is 24. 24 - Vacuum switches stay on or off (1983 only)/coolant temperature sensor or circuit, or Idle-up solenoid or circuit (1984 to 1988 carbureted) http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ I know the problem is not the temp sensor as my temp gauge works just fine and I replaced the temp sensor yesterday but this code still comes up. I believe the issue to be related a solenoid. There is a group of solenoids on the driver's side of the engine near the distributor. The solenoid that connects to the distributor makes a loud "ticking," sound. When I unplug it the ticking goes away. Is this the solenoid that works the timing advance? Where is the idle-up solenoid? If I need to replace it, where can I buy this solenoid? In the pic below I am referring to the bottom solenoid connected to the distributor vacuum advance lines: As a side note, I also noticed that the vacuum advance on my Weber carb is capped off. On an EA82, should the vacuum advance on the Weber be connected to anything or just capped off? Note that there is a vacuum plug at the base of the Weber: Also, months back I removed all of the solenoids off of the passenger side of the engine since they don't connect to anything anymore: Thanks everyone for your help! ~Bobby

I had a similar issue. After replacing the head gaskets and the intake gaskets I was still shooting coolant out of the exhaust. It turned out to be the carb base gasket.

Thanks for this thread. I just finished rebuilding both heads on my EA82 and guess what was the only seals I didn't replace? The Cam seal and o-ring on both sides. Guess where oil is leaking from now? You guessed it. Now I get to pull the timing belts off and replace the cam seals. I plan to do the oil pump o-rings too while I already have timing belts off.

Was this on the EA81 in your Brat? Do you happen to know where to find a write up on removing the oil pump for an EA82? It looks like I need to replace the o-rings on mine. I tried searching, but no luck...

So even if the gauge pegs when you ground it, it still can be bad? Now I wonder if the problem is the oil pump, the oil pump gasket/o-rings, or maybe just the gauge itself. My EA82 has 186k on the odometer and the oil pump appears to be stock. Both heads have been rebuilt recently, but the bottom end is likely original. Maybe it's time to either pickup an after market oil pressure gauge or replace the oil pump and o-rings. Can't I use a multi-meter to determine if the oil sending unit is generating any output that the oil pressure gauge should be reading? If there is no output from the oil pressure sending unit then I'd know the gauge is likely just fine and that it's something more than likely to do with my oil pump at that point. Does anyone know what kind of output I should be seeing from my multimeter when I test the oil sending unit? Thanks again for the input everyone! ~Bobby

I have verified the wiring is good all of the way up to the oil pressure sending unit. I can unplug the wire from the oil pressure sending unit and ground it out to verify the gauge really is working and that there is no wiring issues. I also called NAPA and had them verify it was the correct part. It definitely is the correct part, so I went ahead and returned the part anyway and got a new one just in case the oil pressure sending unit I had just bought was defective. With the new oil pressure sending unit I am still not getting an oil pressure reading. I can tell I actually have oil pressure since my lifters and valves aren't clacking. I also verified that oil is making it to the pressure sending unit by starting the car with the oil pressure sending unit off of the car. Of course oil shot out of there, so I know oil is making it to the oil pressure sending unit. Any ideas? What am I missing? Is it possible that I am actually not getting enough oil pressure for a reading on my gauge? Wouldn't I hear some awful loud clacking if I really didn't have good oil pressure? Thanks! ~Bobby

Recently my oil pressure gauge stopped displaying any oil pressure reading on my 86 EA82 GL Wagon. I disconnected the wire that goes from the oil pressure sending unit to the gauge and grounded it to ensure it would peg the oil pressure gauge. The gauge did go all of the way up with that wire grounded, so I assumed the oil sending unit was bad. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit but still I have no oil pressure reading. I made sure to get the oil pressure sending unit for a gauge and not for a dummy light. I know the oil pressure sending unit is working considering my valves aren't clacking. Any ideas of what to try next?