Markus56

Craigslist special. Only $300

I just bought Girlwithalegacy a 79 DL sedan as a wedding present that i think might be in good shape and possibly rare? From what i am told it was a single owner who was a little old lady, her son sold it to me, on the condition that it doesn't get parted out. what do you guys think? The seats are in amazing shape, all the glass is good and works,but it looks like it was painted once. vinyl roof is almost perfect almost no rust odometer says 31,458 automatic 3 speed! plus slant console and original stereo ( i think) look at these seats!! throw pillow included seller said the fuel pump didn't work. I'm thinking ground issue or rusty fuse block carb splash guard!!

Hello guys I was wondering if you could use type 3 form-a-gasket as flange sealer by itself, like in carb flanges or intake flanges on ea-81 and ea-82 applications? or is this stuff only good if it has a paper gasket to adhere to. Thank you! ~Yohn

Dual carb head are only work with a dual carb block, as the valves are backwards, and because of that, it uses a different camshaft. Also there are no reputable machine shops within 250 miles of where i live that i know of. I really think that some sort of epoxy is my best bet at this point, I am just not sure. Also, to have the holes filled back in, i would have to remove the heads, right?

Do you guys think something like this would work? I read an Amazon review where a guy drilled and tapped it, but i would just want to permanently fix some studs in there.

You mean to cut the flanges off and re-weld them?

These are dual carb heads. you will NEVER find them anywhere. not to sound like a jerk, but I really cant replace them.

The other problem is that i cannot drill the holes bigger. The walls are already too thin. if i went bigger i would breach the wall of the hole with one right next to it that was drilled by a guy who didn't measure twice. At this point i am looking to use a hardware store grade 8 stud epoxied in place i just cant find an epoxy that has a high enough heat rating,

The helicoils pulled out of the holes, was what i meant, sorry. So i have larger than normal holes i need to make a stud stay in. Also, the original studs are all gone, and every hole seems to be a different thread for some reason.

Hey guys hows it going! I've been having problems with my wheeler wagon losing exhaust studs. I need to know how to get them to stick in there. i was thinking about using something like high temp JB weld or something similar, but i dont think it is rated hot enough for exhaust studs. What is going on, is that whomever had this engine before me heli-coiled all of the exhuast stud holes. It is a JDM dual carb EA-81s engine so i believe you have to drill new exhaust holes anyway, because JDM manifolds are 180 degrees off than 'Merican manifolds. I have a spare motor if it comes to that but i would rather use my fancy engine over a stock one. HELP!

When i put a D/R in my '80 Brat, I ended up swapping everything over. I took out all the EA-71 stuff and replaced it all with EA-81. Engine, tranny, alternator, distributor, coil etc.

The battery was free and the weber is on an ea-82 intake with the trans-dapt datsun adapter plate so it would clear the distributor. Havent gotten it to run right yet. I think i have a stuck valve.

new pictures!

So what do you do, if the key all of a sudden will not fit the lock cylinder, and you cannot turn the key after you're buddy uses his pocketknife to unlock the steering column?

More progress! tranny and motor are in! EA-81 with EA-82 intake and weber carb! also fit 195/75r14 tires on it!

The only issue i am having now, is that i cannot figure out a good way to hook the 4wd shifter from the brat onto the D/R transmission

Over the past two days i parted out my 84 wagon and removed the engine and tranny from the brat.

Here is a link from the USRM that tells you how to do this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/48001-electronic-distributor-swap-for-gen-1-vehicles/

Its mostly hooked up and we can run it on brake cleaner! it was hovering around 0 degrees F today and the fuel pump does not want to stay running .

get some axle stubs for the rear diff. and a full size spare tire, some extra lug nuts, nuts and bolts, radius arms, and a wiring kit to start off with. and extra coolant.

Today i put the engine in the car! i will get all the plumbing together tomorrow and see if i can make it run!

Its been snowing on and off here all month. got two feet here last week

ok i will hook the solenoids up to ignition. for the vacuum lines do i just need to hook them all up? and how about the vacuum cylinder thingy on the rear driver side of the motor?

progress! I quit one of my jobs so now i have a lot more free time to tinker. The motor is ready to go back into the car, and i am seeing all the parts i am missing. I dont know what the solenoid looking things on the front of the carbs do or how to hook them up, i am missing some return springs, various linkages and flanges, and the whole upper pivot bar. also i have no idea how to hook up the vacuum ports. :-\ I am also starting to think i dont want this motor in my wheeler wagon... not very much low end torque from what i understand.