svxpert

those 4 digits are not part numbers in the diagram, they are month 00 and year 00 codes. if you call a subaru part department they will be able to give you the part number. its been superceeded a few times and as far as I know, the rear main seal is the same for all pre2009 subaru 4 cyl engines back to the ej22.

remove rear (bottom) passenger seat. remove plastic retainer clip remove door sill cover pull black rubber mat toward drivers side football shaped metal cover with four phillips screws

if your only putting in a clutch fork, you can split the trans from the engine a few inches and do it that way. no need to totally remove either of them.

your not going to be able to "hammer" those dents out. there are baffles in the bottom of the pan that will keep you from getting to the dents. pick up a used one from somewhere. heck, i have 3-4 laying around in my shop if you need one.

well, depending on where the dent is located on the pan, you may want to replace. if the pickup tube is damaged, you could have a nasty oil starvation problem. just ask some of the 2004-2008 EJ255/257 owners!

leather, cloth, power or manual?

cork gaskets were phased out by subaru back in the ole' ea82 days. back in the day I would use a torch to burn off the old cork gasket and then a wire wheel to finish it off. what a P.I.T.A. silicone is used for oil pan gaskets now. silicone oil pan gaskets done correctly will last the life of the car. i have never had any problems with the ones I do in my shop.

when you had the engine apart did you do the water pump, pcv and any idlers? did the felpro kit come with the oil pump seal and cam seals?

<<I asked the service guy "Am I making too big of a deal about this? Would you buy one that hadn't already had the headgasket replaced?" His answer: an emphatic "NO.">> <<Please don't take this as a sign of disrespect, but when you have access to a factory trained mechanic who has worked on literally hundreds of these things, you'd be wise to follow his advice.>> wait, did you say you asked the service guy or the factory trained mechanic? im confused?

i cant see anything in that pic other than some type of sealant hack job someone put on the rear main seal. the seal goes on with a touch of oil only.

haha, have it in my spec b, only because it standard. i hate it. we opted out of it in my wifes tribeca and outback. get a stand alone like mentioned above.

V what? this is a Subaru were talking about. H

the 2005 engine is most likely SOHC unless it a turbo (STi) if it is a SOHC engine you would be putting DOHC heads on it. you would at the very least need the intake manifold and exhaust from the DOHC engine, plus other parts.

all subaru 2.5 engines are interference.

they came stock on the forester and now come on every turbo subaru puts out. i dont know about the n/a newer ones. shoudnt be a problem if you let the car warm up as per owners manual.

"hey, i'm in NJ and looking for a new driveshaft for my 2000 Outback MT. Where are you?" 08080

+1 i cant agree that they would'nt need replaced at 173,000. for the extra $200 or less i would have had them replaced. how much was it for the timing belt install? did they do anything else like valve cover gaskets?

you cant just "turn" the cams. if he does, and the pistons arent in the correct spot, he will bend valves. lets not give bad info out here and try to help this guy out. how was the crank sproket out of time? what did you do to put it in time in relation to the cams? i wouldnt attempt to start it anymore without some good help. all you will do is shatter a piston or damage a cam pulley.

how many miles on the legacy and is it a turbo?

where are you located? i have a few new ones (less than 1000 miles) in my shop in NJ.

ive never seen a 2001 or a 2002 legacy DOHC engine. i dont think they exist. DOHC stopped in 1999 and started back with the turbo legacy in 2005

is it that hard to find a qualified subaru mechanic in your area? im sure someone can recommend one for you. just thinking it will save you from headaches laters especially if your gonna give the guy a chilton manual.

wait, am i missing something here? you were more worried about the headgasket leaking externally rather then a timing belt that was (lets just say 30,000 miles overdue) unless you put 60,000 miles on the car after you bought it. (which is possible)

haha, i hope the pic of the oil pump on the first page isnt going on an engine like that! one thing i have learned having my own shop is there are alot of hacked up repair jobs out there.

its so much easier to remove the engine and put it on a stand to do headgaskets. that way you can use airtools to crank the crank bolt down. how did you do the correct torque sequence when u need to turn it in degrees?