svxpert

<<What's the secret to this?>> use a impact screwdriver next time. try to drill out of the screw without damaging the threads.

did you replace it with a new Suabru tensioner or other brand?

<<Well, as i explained the external filter is a 50 dollar part. Its specific to the car. I should be able to use a oil or hydraulic filter that is super common and way easier to change while being several times cheaper. I think the filter should be changed on my car, but if i can upgrade to a spin on for the same or less money is seems like a good idea. >> i read the part for the WIX brand filter being $50 did you look to see how much a subaru one was? i had 5 of these ones last year i was selling, here is a pic of the subaru one:

<<I would like to replace it with a spin on filter of some sort and dont really know where to start.>> why?

why would you use a gasket when subaru calls for just sealant?

<<no it is not necessary. it is not much more work if you wanted to yank the radiator(if you are doing a coolant change anyway) >> no need for all that either, just take the fans out. that way there is still some coolant left in the engine and you have less a risk of getting an air pocket as so many others have and cooked there engine.

<<Do not compress the tensioner in a vice if the cylinder is part of the arm that holds the ilder pully. It will kill it. It will still put spring tension on the belt, but if you turn the crank backwards you will see that the tensioner can't hold tension, it will move right out of the way and the timing will skip. >> its recommended you use a vertical vice to press the rod back into the cylinder.

did you switch or at least compare the 2.2 and 2.5 crank gear to see if they are the same?

<<This seems crazy! Is there a solution or does one just live with it?>> maybe use a OEM hose?

<<170k miles, just redid head gaskets a year ago, now this. Anyone see this before? What would cause the cam gear to break apart like this? Everything was torqued to specs when I put it back together, and car has not been in any accidents. Opinions / comments / thoughts?>> what did you use to take the cam gears off originally? a strap wrench or something, or did you use the proper tool?

yeah, like posted above, roll the dice and try to get the bolt out. take out the engine, its alot easier. I'm working on a complete rebuild of a SOHC 2.5 in my shop right now. here is a pic of the shortblock.

the heat shields are loose then? you could try hose clamps, or take it to a exhust shop and they could re-weld them.

what year/trim is the $3900 SVX? many people have converted the auto to manual in the svx. i had swapped a 5 speed into one back in 2001, now i have a 6 speed from a Sti in one, along with the STi engine. check on svx websites for more info.

for the actual head on the engine or your head as you can hear it? j/k no damage will occur. just noisy

i agree $699 is a rip. I charge $300 for SOHC belts. 105 for the t/b is fine. replace the water pump, cam and crank seals. no need to take out the radiator, plenty of room if you just take out the fans. take your time compressing the tensioner, never replaced one that wasnt leaking (never saw a leaking one either)

<< Some people recommend using a very small amount of RTV or anaerobic sealer around the outer edge of the seal to help prevent leaks between the seal and the block. >> subaru doesn't recommend it either do I. that seal is just that, a seal. you dont mix sealant with gaskets. thats when you will get a leak. <<this also coming from guys - that always replace all seals we can get to - like crank, cams, oil pump, whenever we do a timing belt job. but the rear main is kind of a different beast, i've always wondered why? >> when i reseal an engine that has been taken out of the vehicle, i always do the rear main. yeah, it may be overkill, but when i deliver it to the person i can tell them with confidence i have done a complete job. i guess you need to see how there put in to gain the experience to do it yourself.

<< the stuff came in this morning, i did buy the ventable radiator cap for 6 bux at advance auto, and put in a new subaru t-stat as well for 13 bux. i put the stuff in, ran it for an hour with the rad cap vent open as it says, shut the car off, closed the vent and it is currently cooling down in the driveway. >> how are you bleeding the system of air when you replaced the thermostat?

i read: "● Factory improved head gaskets and block " meaning the factory always has new improved headgasket designs that have been used while assembling the engine. it also states in the auction it is a longblock but if you read down further, it says there are accesories on the engine. there confused on what a "longblock" is and they sell engines?

where are you located? i have a 1996 2.2 legacy sedan that runs.

<< 1997 Legacy 2.5 DOHC 225k. Came to me overheating randomly, could not get it to overheat when I drove it, changed the t-stat, gave it back to the girl. >> are you a mechanic or someone just trying to help someone out?

<<it is not an oil problem from the pump or any blockages.>> so you have already pulled them all out and cleaned them and there all bad?

where do you see the word recall? its a reflash campaign.

<<and adding an auxilary temp gauge and sender ( best quality you can find ) is a good idea as the subaru temp gauges are as poorly engineered as their cooling systems>> care to explain?

jack the car up and check the driveshaft. the center bearing may have went.