svxpert

pull the engine and do the job right. with the engine out, you can replace the separator plate and rear main seal in the rear.

brake cleaner and red scotch brite pads, or if its really stuck on, a metal wire wheel with brake clean.

<<i'm not 100% sure but, i'm pretty sure in the 1st & 2nd pictures with the big 'JH' on it is the Transmission Control Unit. is this what you are looking for?. >> yeah, if the JH part isn't the TCU, its the ECU. Either way, they are both bolted to each other with 10MM nuts. take the nuts off and disconnect the plus from both, then you will be able to pull them both down together.

http://www.drivesubaru.com/Win06_WhatsInside.htm lower down there is do's and don't for airbags.

<<2--this is not related. the cam casings have the two 1/2 moon cut outs that the platics inserts are to be bonded into. Should I install these when I install the valve covers (at same time) or bond them in the day before (hold them in place with some tape maybe?)>> they should be already bonded into the head casing.did you remove them? if there still on the head casing, leave them.

how many miles on the vehicle?

<<Timing belt is loose and needs to be tightened up.>> your timing belt is loose on a 2005 Subaru? why do you think this?

did you lift the engine up at all?

<<Was I close, or did I misrepresent the total that a dealer would charge?>> not sure what dealers charge these days, depends on location i guess. they have the timing belt kit on ebay that had these included: (1) Timing Belt (1) Timing Belt Tensioner Bearing (2) Timing Belt Idler (1) Timing Belt Idler Sprocket (1) New OEM Water Pump (1) Water Pump Gasket (1) Valve Cover Gasket Kit (with Valve Cover Grommets) (2) Camshaft Seal Kits (with o'rings) (1) Front Crankshaft Seal (1) Oil Pump Seal Kit (Oil Pump Shaft Seal, O'Ring, and 'Mousehead' O'Ring) (1) A/C Belt (1) Alternator Belt that kit came in at just over $200. that should be fine for 1990-1995 application. you can re-use the old tentioner as long as you load it right.

i never heard of a subaru wheel bearing recall ever. better check the online recall sites for this.

<<So SoA is paying the shop for 5.4 hours of labor, and the shop has now also charged you for 3 more hours (albeit at a lower-than-normal rate), so they're double-dipping. They're screwing you, and screwing SoA as well. just please tell me they didn't try to charge you 2 or more hours labor to replace the timing belt and tensioner (already covered by SoA warranty time).>> i would agree to this BUT, why is the headgasket still under warranty when you have 90,000+miles? is it covered till 100,00? with that said, if its only the "headgasket" that is under warranty, the other parts, tentioner, rear main, separator plate woudn't be. right?

what are you using to get them out? being a CA car, shouldn't be too much rust/corrosion.

no, seperate part, seperate part number.

<< However, the dealer quoted 1.5 hours labor for each. >> ask the dealer if this is a quote from an engine that is still in the car or one that is out. i'm thinking its for the first one.

the knock sensor hole is on the shortblock not the intake manifold on the 90's EJ series engines.

is the sysytem charged with refrigerant?

<<I replaced the pump( with new not reman) and the car has been running great.>> did you use a new gasket?

<<I was reading the Haynes manual and it says to remove the cams, but they do not seem to be in the way of the head bolts so I was wondering if the removal was really necessary?>> i'm getting this strange felling your doing this while the engine is still in the car? are you?

"but the front section to the bearing and of course the rear axles and diff are still in place."

in the picture above, theres a water jug with (looks like) plain water in it. was that used to flush the system first? or did you fill the system with just water?

<<svxpert, Will the 16"'s fit on my 14 brakes with no issues? What tires are on them? Could you send pictures to LHROCKER@EARTHLINK.NET. I'm interested. Thanx, Pete>> pm'ed and sent pics. thanks

<<Correction. Those are 97-99 2.5GT wheels.>> actually those wheels were used on Legacy GT's up to 2004. lhrocker, if you want a set of those wheels, i have a set with new tires on them for $325. i will not ship but i am in south NJ. thanks

subaru. thats the safest bet.

<<I've doused it with PB Blaster and have banged away on the threaded end with a 3-lb. hammer and punch but it won't budge.>> cut it off and buy a new one. so much corrosion on them makes it impossible sometimes to salvage. are you taking the hub to someone with a press to do the bearing?

<<There's an alarm / door unlock system that is rather poorly wired in I'm discovering, I might try to cut that out of the car but I'm apprehensive about jumping into the CF of wires that is in there.>> if it starts when you used the trigger start, you could have a problem with the keyless. to unhook the keyless without cutting wires, look take underdash panel off (2 screws) there are two connectors that are blue, that make a Y connection. unplug them from the Y and reconnect the two blue connectors (original). your keyless/alarm is now disconnected. see what that does.