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svxpert

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Everything posted by svxpert

  1. its not going to qualify because its out of the car. there is no way of knowing the true milage they will say. why didnt you just fix the original engine in your car?
  2. i dont think subaru sells just the new caps. i have never seen a part number for one. if this the case, just make sure the surface is as level as you can get it and buy or find a nice bolt.
  3. how do you flush a manual transmission? i have only heard of it with autos.
  4. not likely to be external, those problems didnt start till the 2000 2.5
  5. you already answered that question. its for cooling the oil. take it off because you dont have the correct water pump to support it.
  6. how was it stripped? did you strip out the threads on the mounting holes? these dont just strip. plus if your belt got loose, chances are you damaged the valves or pistons on the engine.
  7. well, being the car is 13 years old, granted only 105,000 miles but the age is more important. They would have told you they recommend the following parts be replaced: All Timing Belt Idlers/Tensioner Camshaft Seals Front oil Seal Water Pump Thermostat Reseal Oil Pump Accesssory Drive Belts you didnt tell us how much you paid to have your belt done. This will usually tell us what was done. I used to cam belts on SVX's for $250, that was 5 years ago. No most owners would want those other things replaced too. I didnt hammer them because the engine was opened up at that point and it was easy to do cam, oil seals, oil and water pumps and the accesory belts.
  8. <<So can It run with maybe 1 tooth off but tick? Also the rad it not installed.>> i dont think the timing belt has anything to do with your ticking.
  9. <<still no start, new cam sensor, coil , fuel filter , plugs wires, check all fuses, grounds , and getting fuel , newer timing belt, water pump, just cranks,>> are you getting spark?
  10. <<I do have a mechanic buddy who says that the problem is a bad inner CV joint, but after putting it in neutral and bringing the engine up to about 1200 rpms, the flutter could be felt. Then he said it has to be a motor mount. I think he's just guessing at this point.>> yeah, dont think he's a car mechanic. did you check the coil pack? no need to keep replacing plugs like you did.
  11. <<spent ALL afternoon driving around town looking for a dang chiltons with absolutely no avail .>> get a subaru service manual like davebugs said.
  12. << It has 135K miles. The headgasket was replaced less than 1 year, about 10K miles ago... together with all belts, not sure about seals. I am not doing it myself, it's at the shop now. >> why are you doing a valve job now?
  13. gwilson87, can you post a picture of the front of the pulleys where the bolt is? thanks sorry to hijack the thread...
  14. <<Q: could i have reused the the wp gasket, most of which had been compressed?? i saved it just in case. what do you think?>> for the money it would save, how much is the gasket? say $8? i wouldnt risk it. Time>money
  15. <<Thanks guys, and I agree going to a regular bolt store I may not like, it seems like all flywheel bolts are usually designated specifically for flywheels, the pressure plate ones arent as big a deal, but I'm not sure of the diamter and pitch on those....>> yeah, the flywheel bolts have a thinner head to them so they dont stick out as much.
  16. nice article. i would add/change the following: 1. dont use sealant on the water pump gasket. if your having trouble holding it on, use a small dab near the outside of the bolt hole. 2. if your going through all of this, replace the radiator hoses. even the small one coming off the water pump. 3. use small binder type clips to hold the timing belt in place while lining up the marks. these are strong enough to hold the belt on without damagine the belt.
  17. most, if not all subaru blocks are sand cast. thats how most manufactures make aluminum blocks. what are you exactly asking?
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