91 subaru

Glad you got it figured out. Good to know theres no adjustment on the valves and kinda weird also

+1 on the valves. I had that same problem on my car(carbed) i took the valve covers off and adjusted the valves. Problem solved.

I have a can of freeze 12 im gonna run in it when i get a chance to put it in. If it has a leak or whatever then ill vac it out and use the kit. I have a buddy whose father inlaw is in the ac business. I can barrow the vac from him

Good info guys. I think what ill do is put in the freeze 12 since i have some and then see how it goes. If it leaks out or for whatever reason doesnt work then ill try Gloyales idea. Anyone have any experience flushing and recharging with r134 on thier own? Id like to get away from shop charges if at all possible;)

Nice find and fairly cheap

Found more info around the net. Obviously you cant mix 12 and 134. Although some people some how can get away with mixing and not immediately destroying thier compressor. I read that with the conversion kit that you would need to pump and vac out the old refrigerant and replace with r134a and replace a few things here and there. Or if you can (legally) buy r12 then thats what you want to do. Since i dont have a license to legally buy r12 then the freeze 12 it is. Anyone else feel free to post your opinions

Found a 50# bottle with 28# in it for 650 bucks!!

Anyone else used this. I have read about it some on here but there isnt to much info on it. What i wanna do is convert to r134. Is this all a guy would need to get to r134? Or would it be better to use some freeze 12 or r22? http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/INT0/RKR8.oap?ck=Search_N0701_-1_-1&pt=N0701&un_jtt_redirect

I dont know what its worth but id love to buy it. Im sure my wife would make me live in it though

Suckerking, do you still have the parts for sale that we were talkin about?

Nope no anti- seize. Just tightened the plugs into the heads. Ill check the resistance tomorrow.

The plugs are brand new ngk BPR6ES-11's. Gapped to .040 also brand new wires put on this morning. The 8mm wires arced so i replaced with new ones. 7mm and they do the same thing.

81 dl. My car has been idling a little rough so i bought new ngk plugs and some omni spark 8mm plugwires. It still idled rough and after fiddling with different things i couldnt figure it out. This past monday i had the hood open and the car running. It was dark out and i noticed the number two plug wire shooting spark to the clip that holds the cap on. I figured bad cap or a crack. I looked a little harder and there is tiny real light sparks/arcing everywhere on the wires. I got to looking around and the plugs are even arcing between the part of the plug where you would put a socket to take out the plug and the head. All four plugs do it and all four wires have the random arcing. I replaced the wires with a set of ngk 7mm wires and i still have the same problem. Can anyone tell me how to fix this? I have searched around on here and all i can come up with is new coil. Sound right?

I thought mine was expensive. Some of the post on here make me happy about the price i pay a year for my 81 dl. I pay $3.59 (currently) 87 octane for fuel. Im not sure on the mpg's because i only drive it once or twice a week for a total of 5 miles for the day. insurance cost my $24 bucks a month $288/year no inspection or epa stuff tags cost me $21 a year. The total i pay a year is $309 not counting fuel cost. im pretty suprised how expensive other states are.

Yep. Thats why i checked there first. The guy i bought the car from must has changed them over. It has two flat two prongged fuses now. One was popped. Replaced it and now all the lights work again. Today is my bday plus its raining like an s.o.b out. When it stops im gonna do some fishing:) then ill check under the dash. Thanks for the help guys.

Welp figured out the light situation. Blown fuse by the battery. Disconnected the door chime. Still no heater/ac fan speed. Anyone know where the fuse for that is? Im on my way to search that right now.

Alright. The last problem(hopefully) with my 81 dl. None of the lights work. No head lights, no tail lights, no dash lights, no brake lights, no hazards. The only outside lights i have is blinkers. I know weird huh. Well it gets better... I also lost the fan settings on the heat. At the same time the lights quit. Doesnt even try to kick on in any setting. Now the weird part. When i turn the lights on the door chime comes on until i turn the lights off. The same happens when i press the brake pedal. No brake lights but the chime comes on until i take my foot off the pedal. Same thing happens with the hazards. Any ideas are greatly appreciated

Pump is under the hood on the driver side right below the windshield. That little thing has two fuel lines from the tank going into it

Is this the fuel filter(under car) for an 81 dl? I have looked all over the forums and all i can find is that its under the car by the tank. This little thing is on the driver side where the seat bottom would be, just in front of the rear tire and about 12 inches towards the middle away from the tire.

Had a good tornado about 3 hours south. 2 miles wide. Another small one just east of me. No damage at my place though. I beleive its time for a shelter!

Well good news. The car runs perfect. No idea what happened. After the adjustment of valve lash and a guess at the timing marks i couldnt ask for the car to run any better. All i can guess is the valves just needed adjusted and i got super lucky at guessing the timing. The backfire is gone, as well as the miss. All i need to do now is get the y pipe to fit more snug onto the heads. Both sides have a little leak happening but nothing severe. Needless to say im super excited about it. Lol

So i read that you can do two types of compression test. A wet and dry. Im sure most have heard about it. Anyway my first test was at 125 psi on my # 4 cylinder so i put a cap full of oil in the cylinder and did a re test. Bumped up to 155. I dont know if the rings are stuck or bad. The cylider wall looks good. The car sat for a couple years before i bought it. I decided to let it sit with marvel mystery oil in the cylinder. Then ill turn it over by hand a few times and see it compression changes.

I forgot to add that cylinder 2 and 4 is the side the head gasket blew on

Compression test results... #1 holds at 168. Cylinder #3 holds at 167. Cylinder #2 holds at 155. Cylinder #4 holds at 125. When the engine is turning over everytime cylinder number four rolls around it make kind of a hiss sound. Like a bike tire would when you have a little hole in it. I did this test with the distributer cap off and the radiator out. I turned the motor by key for about five seconds per cylinder. Tomorrow im goin to put everything back in the car and test plug wires for spark.

Alright so i put the car all back together. I put the driver side head on. I had no compression in either #2 or #4 cylinders. I adjusted the valve lash and now have compression(tested with finger over plug hole)on both cyliders. #4 cylinder i can completely stop the air from coming out of plug hole. #2 cylinder will push my finger out, as will cylinders 1and 3. If i barely put my finger over #4 plug hole i can fill air come out. I have no idea what the deal is there. As for the timing marks. #1 top dead center the flywheel is about a quarter inch before 20*btdc if that makes sense, the distributor rotor does point at #1 on the cap. Anyway im gonna test the compression with a gauge tomorrow. In the mean time im giving the car the name "christine"