viceversa

Basically what's happening is there is a small failure in the head gasket that allows exhaust gases to get into the cooling water circuits, causing a void or bubble. Flow stops and hot spots develop. The radiator will be cool because the heated coolant isn't being pumped out of the engine. That's probably so. I haven't had that issue with a Subaru, but with another vehicle. They do need to check for exhaust gases in the cooling system to confirm this theory. These gases create an airlock and the coolant does not circulate. Touch the uppper radiator hose and it is not hot, when you are overheating. I had this on another vehicle and replaced 4 T-stats, and all other minor stuff, bled the system many times until I realized it is the headgasket. It is an engine problem. You can probably fix it temporarily by installing a very cool T-stat, I don't know what temp. that might be, 160F maybe? YOu will run richer however.

Another question, is Outback (Like '96) a version of Legacy or a different model?

Thanks for sharing that, - like you I do lots of minor repairs like sensor swapping, alternator, etc. but major stuff I stay away from. Well, once I removed an engine, - took me 3 days however. For me, ease of repair is one of the major criteria. If it is hard to fix, I don't buy it! I drove a full size V8 RWD domestic car for a while, which has been very nice and pretty easy to fix, but I longer need all the space or low mpg.

Could someone explain the different generations of Subaru Legacy, and what changed with its incarnation? Like, engine, EFI, whatever. I am currently enticed by 1994 or so models, which are old enough to be inexpensive but not so ancient as to be in poor shape, and post-93, they should have the new AC system (if it works like in domestic cars). Of course maintenance is everything, and '94 models can certainly be abused.

ON some cars, the water pump is a part of the "tune up". I don't replace it until it breaks. I have never had a "new" generation, just a Loyale with 170K miles which never had a failure. Had a Chebby which made it to 155K miles - no failure. I had an old Dodge where it failed after 25 years and 145K miles - was an easy swap. BUT, if they are replacing other parts near it, makes sense to swap it at the same time.

There is one floating around on ebay, I think this might work (but u should confirm it. It is a several wire sensor, not a single wire. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33557&item=2462291183&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

Mine [i.e. Loyale] is a '92, so it has EFI, and other 90's aspects. Still too many vacuum lines. Could you post a link to the award? I would love to see that. I found these awards, which one is it? http://www.subaru.co.nz/news/news_awards/

4 wire sensor this is the sensor I was thinking about with the above part number but it is a 4-wire sensor and I need 1-wire sensor. Maybe it will work in a newer Legacy.

Incredibly, I had a bad ECU. Total failure, just quit on the side of the road. At 180,000 miles. Incredible. It was in the middle of rural nowhere too, at least not late at night.

I Have 190,000 miles on mine, I imagine it's going to be interested trying to get it out - but don't worry, I have all the tools - pb blaster, huge breaker bar, etc. I would like to get OEM sensor by Subaru, but if more expensive, a regular Bosch would work just fine. I was doing a tune up on Chebby and someone told me to use AC Delco o2 sensors as superior to Bosch which supposeldy don't last as long as OEM, but if cheaper, might be a better deal.

Question, would a Subaru O2 sensor with part number 22791AA0A work in my 92 Loyale?

Check compression?

I removed EA82 this summer from a rust bucket. took me 3 days and I could not have done it without this forum. Nothing really complex about it, just tedious wrenching. I think I could do it again in 3 hours. Soak exhaust bolts with PB Blaster. ON mine, they were really rusty and I nearly rounded them off. I got scared putting it in myself, all these vacuum lines and electric wires but if you do it several times I suppose it is not that hard.

Mid 90's Legacy vs early 90's Loyale? Easier/harder? Which things are easy and which are hard? Typical stuff which goes wrong, water pump, spark plugs, etc.

my 92 loyale wagon has no rust. but I got a 92 parts wagon which was something else entirely. Lived in NY. Oh my!

Well, my EA82 failed at around 175K miles. Running on 3 cyls. I shopped around for a while and used EA82 were in the $600 range, and that's with some miles on them! I couldn't believe these junk yards. I finally found a parts car for $200 -- that might be your best bet. Ebay!

On a loyale, No don't waste your money. They are a dime a dozen. You will NEVER get that back on a trade in. >>>> I completely agree. I also have a 92 with 190K miles on body, 100K on engine and 40K on tranny which I want to sell. Will probably sell it for .. well, not much, as it is a 2WD auto. It doesn't need that much work, but the above statement is true. Fix it only if you can use it. Otherwise get back maybe 1/2 of it.

Off topic, but I was quoted $100 for a 10 year old Buick Speedometer cluster. If you look stupid and ask stupid questions, that's what you get. I did. These days, I make them an offer first.

You have mail: I have a 92 Loyale wagon for sale or even trade for someting cool. (2wd, auto). The engine came from a 90K mile parts rust bucket, the tranny is also low mileage and a few years old. I am located about 170 miles away in old virginny.

I have a Loyale (92) and I was wondering just how much better Legacy was with the bigger engine. Longevity wise, performance wise, etc.

I think it would be easier to just get an EFI car and keep that one the way it is. Did you see some deals on ebay? Your idea , with all due respect, is not cost-effective, unless you _want_ to do it.

What are some differences between these engines? HP and torque?

FWIW, I stronly disagree. Manual is so much simpler and more reliable. Power windows usually fail for me. In fact, always. Either the electrical, or the gear.

I empathize... ignition can be difficult. Take a deep breath, and undo everything you did one by one and see what makes it work. Luckily, spark plugs are real easy unlike on some V8 engine. I had a real annoying problem, where I got a miss after I did a tune up. Removed everything I did, found out that while I was checking compression, something came off from the compression tool and was left in the spark plug hole. Then I tried to screw the plug in it, damaging the plug and not getting any ignition. That by the way damaged my compression tool.

Mine ticked when it was cold, and for only 15 mins or so. I just ignore it.