THAWA

oh thank god

3rd cat? I didn't think bg's had that many. Do you have any pics of your setup? If you've still got a joint somewhere you can always get pieces from there back.

please tell me at least one of the legacy's was a manual

Did you have the pipe made with joints like there were on the standard exhaust? Or is it all one piece?

The coolant tank will fit fine though it might have a hose coming off the top of the cap where as the older ones don't have this. the powertrain and stuff didnt really change, some minor things here and there but for the most part its all the same from 90-94

The reason they suggest you don't do this is it puts duty solenoid C into 100% duty mode. It'll overheat or wear out or something, I don't quite remember what goes wrong with it, but it certainly isn't good for the tranny.

rio red or ruby mica subieman?

it could be done in about 10 mins if you know what you're doing. its only 7 bolts for everything

I believe he's already got a chiltons

one of them there's a clip dealie on it, just push that in and pull it back, the other you have to lift the lil rubber boot up and unscrew the bolt and just remove it. It's incredibly easy once you know how to do it

sometime before 97 I would assume since he said he's got a fwd 4eat

when was the last time it was changed?

There's no overdrive in a subaru 4eat. What you're experiencing is the torque converter locking and unlocking, well in your case unlocking. As far as that chattering thing, sounds like torque bind.

Unless they changed something from the legacy 4eat to the impreza 4eat that isn't true. If I leave my selector in 1 it will shift up to 2nd gear when it hits 6500 rpms. however if I leave it in 1 and slow down to an acceptable speed for 1st gear it will downshift into that.

guess who's got fri and sat off you guys mind if I either follow or ride with one of you? My car is actually doing better than before! No more crazy grinding scratching sounds or anything. Haven't lost drive in a while either, but I need some more parts and i really don't feel like waiting for the dealer to order them. so yeah, lemme know what's up.

the awd part only applys to when it's in 1

To add to that the manual button does work in 1. However it only changes the AWD map.

why do you think there's been engine work done? it's not an ej25 Properly cared for you wouldn't have to do anything be preventative maintanence to keep the engine running for 275k miles.

well you can be 99% sure it's the hg's, ej25's are notorious for blwoing em

right above the kick panel. look where your left foot would be and turn your head to the left. it's black and has writing on it or a sticker with writing.

Had this happening to me last year, turned out that both my hg's were blown. I'd go get the coolant sniffed for hydrocarbons.

Any ej series engine will mate to your tranny and all that ****, wiring will be the issue. Ej series engines include, the ej18, ej20, ej22, ej25, ez30 and eg33, the later two being six cyl's. There is no difference in the engine as far as manual or auto setups. The jy is probably going to be the absolute cheapest.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=34454#34454

could it have been from the slack or lack of slack in the drive belts? I've heard similar stories about it, lemme see if i can find the link.

close, it was a sedan. I dunno what other stuff you had to remove from the head, do you mean the valve covers and stuff, or are you talking cam sprockets and manifold and stuff? Also brute I dont think it's possible to remove all the bolts or any for that matter without removing the head. As for that screw, it's not supposed to be adjusted. You should try and put it back to where it was set from the factory, should have some paint on it to line it back up.