THAWA

I'd check to see what codes are stored in the ecu, just to see what problems might arise. MAke sure the locks still work. Check for torque bind. Sunroof for leaks, plus all the regular stuff.

No problem, I aim to please Don't take this the wrong way, but since you seem a little uninformed, what width and offset are your wheels? I have a feeling you've got something too low of an offset, and are causing damage to the hubs/bearings/ etc. Also just to be sure you understood what I was saying your brakes are currently single pot, 2 pot brakes were only available from 91-94 on the tubro legacy's and from 02 on on wrx's, there might be more now with all the turbo cars, but those are the onyl ones I've heard about.

Just cause im in that kinda mood I'll say it, This isn't a pos ford, we dont have crappy v's. I like my engines like i like my women, balanced Anyway, to use subaru 4 pots you need wheels with at least 7" of width, with still the correct amount of offset, and a caertain spoke design. The 98-01 rs wheels work perfectly for this. Most other new gen subaru whells are 6.5" wide, so they wont fit w/o a spacer but then you chang the offset of the wheel. The only car that came factory with 4 pots that is redily availabe is the sti. And those need at least a 17" wheel. Svx brakes would be m,ore of a headache, since they have a different lug pattern, 5x114 instead of 5x100 which we use. Wrx and leg turbo brakes use 2pots and require at least the stock size of the wheels they're mounted on. Almost all other brakes are single pot.

Or you can just turn the key to the on position and see if the CEL comes on. That seems even easier than removing a sensor wire, and forcing the ecu to throw a code, which you'll have to get rid of eventually.

That BE is Imprezer's, or whatver his name is, the guy that owns i-club. Unfortunately we were told it wasnt a real B4. Rest assured it was beautiful. Almost as beautiful as the 05 GT. The owner of taht wagon subieman, is standing right infront of it in that picture. Just toss your arm at him and see if he'd take it and yeah we went all the way up to the top. Kinda scary as narrow as it is.

head replacement is pretty easy time consuming more than anything else.

I guess I got off easy . My hoses came off pretty quickly, just twist the filter around until it's spinning rather easily, then start slowly pulling hoses away while working the filter back and forth.

You mean the legacy turb in 91-94, and the 22b is like 280-290 hp

I believe it's like youts as in sport utility vehicle.

It's cold as ice

didnt i just say that?

anyone have a diagram of this? or picture or something of all the lines and stuff needed?

just to be sure you did play with the illumiation switch right?

Tell me you don't mean Dexcool?

i cant stand the majority of people there, yet i keep going back

Some of that stuff you just mentioned doesnt apply to subarus. Turbo or not they have the same service intervals for oil changes. Also there is no cooldown period with the way the turbos are cooled. It's been this way for many years (at least 13, dunno if the ea-turbos were watercooled aswell). When you shut the engine off, there is still coolant in the turbo that cools it down. So there's no need for a cooldown period. Not saying I personally still wouldnt give it a bit to cool down, but its nice to know that it doesnt have to be done that way.

You need to punch out the spring pin that holds the inner part of the axle to the differential spline. Afterwards, disconnect the front swaybar bushing if your car has one. Then remove the control arm from the steering knuckle. There's a bolt that holds it tight ytou can see it from infront of the car. Remove that, then use a prybar or something to pry the arm out. Now work the axel off the differential spline. You might need two people for that, but if you pull the control arm twords the ground, and push the knuckle to the ourside of the car you can pull the axle off. Installation is reverse. You're supposed to use new spring pins and all taht, and make sure you torque to factory specs. Also you should pick up a haynes itll explain most of this (though not very well).

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html#enginetip be sure to reset the ecu as the codes stay in the system even if the problem was alleviated.

it says replace belt in all red letters, but this isnt the stitching I thought it was I see what you're talking about and that is still safe, any thoughts on the replace belt warning?

my belts are already ripped, there's a lil warning under it that says something. I cant remember it off the top of my head. Does this mean my lap belt needs to be replaced?

That legacy is extremely rare and 4k for it in great condition (which it sounds like) is a great price. It was only available for one year, and had special things other first gen legacies didnt even get. As far as the differences between the trim levels that all depends on the year. But basically the more letters the more stuff you get The exception to this is the Ti/Mi/Gx/STD etc

out of curiousity, with switch is the reverse switch? The one closer to the rear of teh car or the one closer to the front of the car?

you're right its not molded, make sure if you buy some random hose that you get one that is rated for the same pressure as the stock, and steel braided.

Well there's three places it could've messed up. The linkage could've came disconnected from the hand lever, the cable couldve come disconnected frp, the gear selector (middle pass side of the tranny) or the cable coould've snapped.

there's no way you can remove te hose and replace t quick enough to not lose fuel. What you should do before you do this though is disconnect the pump connector under the carpet int he trunk, remove the filler cap, and turn the car over a couple of times until it wont start anymore. That way most of the fuel that was in the lines is already gone. There's still going to be quite a bit of fuel spiolling out. It's a bitch of a hose to replace so be prepared to spend at least a hour on it.