kerandt

Greetings all! Have a 1991 Loyale sedan (4wd) with the 3spd auto. Wondering about the leakage as it is getting pretty fumy with the gear oil burning off the Y pipe. It's the driver's side leaking. Definitely gear oil. Has the smell and I have to check the level frequently. Any chance there is a seal accessible behind the axle stub? Don't think I'm willing to pull the whole tranny for what the car is worth to me. Any comments appreciated. -Keith

Nice. Is it picture worthy? It's fun getting something different to tinker with isn't it. Never had a turbo though. And I say you're never too old for more projects. So what did you have to do to get her going? (or is it not a she)

Hi berto. Could you maybe post a picture of the "plastic nut" thats leaking? Are you possibly referring to the thermoswitch that threads in radiator? It's a larger brass nut with wires or connectors. When radiator temp is hot, the thermoswitch grounds out and the electric fan will come on. You could hook the fan to a battery to see if it the fan motor is still good as suggested You can also test the thermoswitch itself if you have a multi-meter. Also do you have a mechanical fan on the waterpump?

Hi reedbj40. Have you seen these videos (the Art of Subaru Maintenance)? Basically cover what you are mentioning doing. Cheers!

Greetings there! I have an '89 GL that was behaving very similar. Alive one minute then would quit at random times. And a power issue. It ended up being the plug / connection from the ignition switch to the wire harness. It's under the steering column with a bunch of other wires. Sorry I don't remember how many prongs it has or the wire colors. I do remember removing the plastic covers under the column / knee area to find it. Mine was very obvious it was the culprit after close inspection. Some of the plastic in the connector was melted and dis formed. I also recall other threads mentioning this connection getting hot. I just scraped / cleaned it the best I could and added some dielectric grease and have't had any more issues (knock on wood). If you haven't looked at this yet might be what you are experiencing? Hey good luck!

Hey ystrdyisgone. I've found my stock tires do better at highway speeds (185/70/r13). My 205/75/r14 on Nissan wheels rob quite a bit of power (at highway speeds) when not in a lower gear. But that's on an old ea-82 with 235k miles on it. (If I only had the means for that EJ swap! Right?) Also my 14's aren't balanced as well as the stock wheel tire combo. As I did just redrill the wheels not the hubs. Axle life seems fine with the 2" lift, but then again I do go between several rigs. I have a stock Loyale for longer highway travels and the GL with dual range (2" BOSS lift and 14" tires) is for fun (gravel backroads, mud,etc / some light town driving).

Howdy 1990loyale. I know it's possible just to put a switch in for the washer fluid control. I've done that before. If I recall, just use the two small wires near the base of the wiper control/arm. White and blue? I actually had to put in a switch also for the wiper itself too since PO have pulled the whole wiper piece out. Oh well. Hey good luck!

Wow. That! Is a beautiful engine! (Well Done!) I added a light. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=325&pictureid=3910 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=325&pictureid=3911

Here's some more reading for those who really want to dwell on the situation. Resistor block wattage http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18580 Blower motor resistor pack http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41911 GL-10 Blower Switch http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64761 Heater blower missing speeds replace http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75738

Looks like dog hair got into mine. And at first I didn't see the "blower resistor". It kind of blends in with the duct work.

Look on the thermo housing, lower, same side as the single spade connector. As stated green plug with two wires.

Interesting. All this time I thought it was just the switch. I have speeds 3 and 4. Now I just need to check out this resistor box you speak of. Cool beans!

Looked through my junk ... have a Fel-pro gasket box for the crankseal, part #TCS 4550. Says replaces #8067-38070. Google brings up the seal pick. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy/products/34893-crankshaft-front-seal-set-by-felpro-part-tcs-45540-timing-belts.html http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Fel-Pro-TCS45540-Engine-Crankshaft-Seal-Kit-/79302480 If you haven't replaced one before . . . looks like a cam seal but bigger (approx 2 5/16" OD). Find it?

My '87 wagon did basically the same thing a couple winters ago. I ended up putting on a new fuel filter and pump and started right up after that. Sounds like the pump runs at times? Sounds like a ground possibly? Try an alternate power and ground wire to the pump. Good luck!

Check you drive axles (front)! You won't go anywhere (unless in 4wd) if an axle / CV joint went out on the front.

Well I won't loose any sleep over it then. Thanks for the insight! Yeah 5speed swap. Now I am beginning to understand why you mod guys do what you do. Cheerz:drunk: And yes Nipper, It is Fwd with 4wd button, so not all-time 4wd?

I will advise her to take it slow. No, no real need to go 70 except on occasion. 4eat? Good question. I guess that'd be one thing I'd like to figure out.

Hmm. Okay then. So do you push yours to say 70-75mph? Which would be the maximum speed limit around here. I was just surprised to see go to 5k so easily.

'91 Loyale 4WD sedan with the automatic transmission. Recently purchased for the GF. I've driven it a few times around town (25-45mph) and it runs and shifts smoothly. Earlier today I had it on the interstate, D drive, and it was about 4500rpm to go 65mph and when I would push it to 70 it was around 5000rpm. So does that seem normal? I'm use to a 5-speed manual and seems to me it should be shifting one more time? I would appreciate some feed back from those of you who drive a GL / Loyale with an auto tranny.

Hey Moosen. Have you tried hooking an alternate power source to your pump, just to confirm it is dead and not just a connection and or electrical issue? I did a search on RockAuto for pumps for 87 Subaru GL and see your selection as an option. So it should work, but again try juicing yours with a battery just to confirm the pumps itself is Not Working. Good luck!

Check out this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

Hey suprunner. Sounds like your radiator is no longer doing it's job? Have you let it warm up, then shut off and feel the radiator for hot / cool spots? Basically feeling for areas that are not circulating well (cooler spots). Some guys even upgrade to a 2 row radiator for extra cooling.

Ok. Thank you! This means I have my '87 (ea82) a bit too far (approx 20). Surprisingly it seems to run fairly good (has a Weber carb though). Awesome. Thanks again!

Nice! Just curious though, what was the actual problem with the fan? Electric connection or the motor itself went bad? The fan on my Loyale seized up but I was able to pry the motor housing apart and lube the end of the shafts with some electric grease. To my surprise the thing came back to life (but not without a little squealing when it shuts down).

I just want to confirm what approx number a person should be shooting for with timing their Subaru. And now might be a good time to share any of those Timing "tricks" for those of use who have only done it a couple of times. I have been lead to believe the motor was the main factor in timing (as the title suggests). But with some of the more recent threads I have been reading it is suggested that fuel delivery is what determines what it should be. For example; models with SPFI = 20 degrees and those with a carb (ea81 AND ea82) would be closer to 8 degrees. Can we get some clarification on this? It actually kept me up part of the night thinking about this. Many thanks in advance! -Keith