subusolo2nut

Looks good man---Two questions--What is the pipe ID & what are you going to finish the system with---

O--Thanks about the driving part--I enjoy 'cross--you might give it a try-100th of a sec is all it takes to win & you need skill-a great-handling car & good luck. We get people from as far away as Redding & Portland to come here & race--most likely the best track for about two hundred miles around---

Sorry about being heavy handed in my last post--The temp in the shop was about 110 today & the workload was "hell"--I was just wondering if you are talking about the other plugs in the passenger head--there are water & oil ports--I'm talking about the cam rear thrust "plug"

Look--I see that this thread is going nowhere--I would need to remap any electronics due to the mods to the engine-this is a RACE CAR--NO Emissions required--engine will be bored-cammed-compression about 12to1 & use a free-flow exaust with no emission units--I'm glad you embrace all the modern electronics--I have to work with & trouble-shoot them on a daily basis--I am a factory tech & DON'T want all of that on a car I race on the weekends---In any case--Oregon only requires a car pass emissions for 20 years, so even if I want to drive it to work everyday--I still could & presently do. I LIKE CARBS--I have been working with side-draft Webers & Dellortos for over 20 years now & like doing it--Most people think that multiple carb tuning is a dark art--I like working with them-- SO YOU LIKE WHAT YOU WANT & I'LL LIKE WHAT I WANT--unless you can prove to me that your way is the only way to go, I'll go mine. When you've raced for over 20 years, you can tell me what is a "better" way. As for the WRX & STi--one of my friends has a 2002 WRX & another has a New STi--I still beat the WRX by 2 sec & was just behind the Sti--The GLF weighs less than 2000lb & that's how I've been doing it--

If you have someone crazy enough to sell it that cheap----DO IT!!!!!!!!

Just to set the record straight--you can use almost any distributor in almost any engine (of course matching 4-6-8-12-etc)--The most extreme example I can think of --- In the mid 80's I was part of a group that were making racing MGB engines--We could not get enough voltage thru the stock cap/rotor combo (about 20.000 volts)--we needed 2/3 times that to fire the plugs at the compression the engines were using (12.5 to 1), so we found that the 4 cyl GM HEI distributors had the same shaft diameter & about 4 times the cap size (same as the V6 & V8 caps--just with 4 electrodes)--the set-up allowed us to use over 55,000 volts & was more than enough to fire under the compression -- tests showed that we were peaking at about 42,000 volts at 6,000 rpm. With the engines well developed (head work-bored to 2001cc & major carburation) a five port engine was putting out almost 150 HP---This was twenty years ago on a engine design that started in the 50's with 45 HP in the 1500cc guise. Like I said--just shows what can be done---

Nice try--Unless the engine in question is strange by "normal" standards, you will find 4 stokes rotate the cam at 1/2 crankshaft speed--the cap vs rotor electrode length is also a constant---different caps just have different rotor length--that's all. Caps seperate the internal electrodes to reduce cross-fire--the wider the spacing--the less chance for crossing--So a EA82 distributor will work--however, this unit would not be my first option--I want a unit that has both mechanical & vaccum advance--the vaccum would be removed, but the mechanical with weights & springs is my area--I've been a Professional Mechanic starting in 1975 & have been building racecars from the late 70's--I started working on Subarus in the dealership in 1981.

Like I said--I don't want a ECU---and don't want to do all the re-mapping that using a ECU would require--I am not using a Turbo--the class I'm running in is a Non-turbo'd/under 2.5L group. To create a crank-fire coil pak system would by default require more electronics than I want to use--The cash involved would be better spent in tires-suspension & track fees---The car at present with a 1.8 non-turbo is running faster than the older WRX's & a few sec behind the newer STi's---so to increase the engine size 400cc with the same formula I'm using should cut about 2/3 sec off my lap times--- Lastly-I suggest you look at a early 2.2 engine--That "plug" is the machined pass-thru for the cam-not a "oil or coolant return"--it has a small amount of oil pressure, as all the cam galleys in both heads, but only as a by-product, as this is only a drain-back for the rear journal. And no, I'm not carrying a FSM or a multi--to redesign back to a simpler system makes it more reliable--not less. This car started as a project to see if I could build a "good" autocross car for under $2000--to date, I am constantly placing 2nd or 3rd in my group--not bad for a 22 year old car.

THATS Right!! Try being at the track & have you car screw up--much easier to fix a simple system instead of not being able to run "because your car won't run":grin: Been there-done that----

Well-its not quite that easy--but you can take a dist body that fits the hole & custom-design the advance curve to what-ever you want--- A Sun machine can give you when the advance comes in & at what RPM the total advance happens. With an assortment of springs-weights & some time you can have just what the engine needs.

When you look at the rear of the Passenger side head, you will see a plug with two offset "ears" held with two bolts-- remove the "plug" & the cam is slotted--the area where the "plug" bolts is the same as many Hiatachi-type Distributors that use a two-bolt adjustment/mount (Honda for one)

Ok--two layers of 'glass on the parts--now time to cure & then I'll remove the front fenders & bond the insides--then sand & smooth everything. About two layers of 'glass after that & the flairs should be done---Front & rear caps after that---

Very plausible--Right (passenger side) cam is cut for distributor (cross slot) & there is a mounting pad for a wide-base distributor body like was used in 80's & early 90's Hondas, Toyotas & I hope, Subarus. Any one of these units would be able to have the vaccum advance removed to allow mechanical advance only. As for specs--with a custom engine, I'll have to design the timing advance curve using a Distributor machine (old Sun unit--from the 70's)--I want centrifugal advance only--no vaccum advance--so a older dist type with the weights inside will work just fine--I have been making performance engines for the last 30 years or so & it is simpler to make a basic system than to design the mods to a ECM to get what I want.

Yes-I want something that is not controled by a ECU--The engine will be dual carb'd with 40mm Dellortos--plus it will have fairly large cams in it, so I don't want the hassle of setting up a ECU for it--- Later--

I'm sorry also---I was crusin' eBay auctions & saw it---didn't know that we could get Subaru & the logo--

Its all about makin' your ride what you WANT---

Well, I'm putting one in T-Rex (with lots of mods)--The modern AWD 5 speed would be nice in a '80/'86 Hatch----light & LOTS of power---I'm just using the 5speed/2WD box--will work great for autocross---

That would work for me---Hey--you guys in OZ-land, anybody got one I can buy??? Later--

Thank You!! As for The Dual-Brat---sounds like a great idea---I think that some people over here would howl about cutin' up two Brats---but more power to you!!! I like the idea of doing things that other people won't think of---- Later---

Yea-I had the camera set wrong--will get better photos in the next day or so--am designing a front airdam & rear cap--will have them mocked up in the next week or so--- Later--got to go back to the shop & lay 'glass-----

Ran across a Decal place that has a nice windshield graphic---for $9.95 don't know about shipping--but it's a real good price--available in colors & has the new logo next to Subaru--like the new STi's---http://streetcandy.net/wind-subaru.htm Later----

Hi Guys-- I normally cruise the Older board, but I have a question--Anyone over-seas (OZ-Land--??) know if there were distributors used in any of the newer EJ series engines? And if so, how good are my chances of having someone get one for me---I'm putting a EJ22 into my project SoloII car--T-Rex-WRX & don't want any major electronics--- If you know anything, please shoot me a message or send me an E-mail--& if you want to see what I'm up to--search for T-Rex threads Thanks!! Dean

Well--when it gets too tuff-----about 1 lb of C-4 & a ultra-high speed camera:lol: Really--we use a product called Rost-Off Ice (Wurth Product from Germany)--it rapid-cools the part & uses a low-temp lube--works real well to loosen rusted-solid parts.

Hey guys-- Doing the flairs on T-Rex---thought everyone would like to see what they are looking like---Fronts have a layer of 'glass--rears are form-set & ready to cover---

Well-I work at Specialized Foreign in Medford, Oregon. We are not the cheapest shop in Medford, but we do have about the most fun----Everything from bread&butter cars to the weird&wild---I do NOX installs, Super & Turbocharger work, 50's & 60's foreign stuff (British & German)--anything that IS NOT cut & dry I like to play with---