subusolo2nut

The easy (!) way is to make a adjustable cross bar--two plates that "slide" in & out on the top of the towers (slot the towers & drill holes exact in the plates)--then make a cross bar to join them (flanges welded on the plates to bolt a rod-end or heim joint to--one right thread--one left thread & tap a tube right & left--allows a adjustable link between the towers)--loosen one tower & adjust the camber--tighten & goto the other--do same--tighten all after--also makes the car MUCH stiffer up front--towers are "boxed" with this way:) As to the reducer--I know a speedo shop in Portland,OR that will do them--They make a two-piece speedo cable & insert the box where-ever you want--As to the cost-Shrug--I don't know--You might be able to find a shop closer to you--time to go explorin'

OK--I normally drop cars instead of lifting them, but the rules are still the same--move the upper mounts inboard moves toward negative--outboard moves toward positive--I bet you just bolted the struts back into the stock location. What you would need to do is change the strut upper mounting point inward to decrease the amount of positive camber--I'm sure that the guys that are lifting have a couple of ways to do this--- As for the speedo question--the answer is yes--your speedo & odo will be wrong--you can get a reducer that will change the cable rpm down the correct amount if you want or live with it--you sure won't get tickets that way!!

Yea--that's all I did to my front springs--the ride is acceptable & the bumpstops don't hit (much) if you're careful. In the rear I found that you need to change the control mounting points--my first try gave me about 7/8deg negative!! If you look at the inner mounts, you will see that they are not level with the tube--cant at about 15deg--I welded a washer where I wanted the new location to be (only needed to change the inner holes)--welded inside & outside, then used a rotary file to reopen the hole in its new location--now I have about 1/2deg negative. You will need to slot the arms on the outboard side--this makes the rear toe-adjustable (kind'a like the old VW's were in the rear). I was out yesterday for the first time with the car almost done--can take 25 mph corners at 60/65--car tucks in & exits the corner like a slingshot--WUHU!!

Well-Its been long road & only the last couple of days have been fun--:-\ The GLF was a a fully loaded car--Power Steering--A/C--Cruise control & now it has NONE of these--Basher (the '85 GL Hatch) got a few things he never had before------ It started on Friday after work-I R&R'd the engine-A/C & Power Steering/Front crossmember out of the '82--that took about 4.5 hrs--went home--came back the next day (Sat) at 7:30am (LOTS OF COFFEE) & R&R'd the engine & manual steering/crossmember out of the hatch & then installed the power stuff & A/C in--then checked the engine & re-installed it---this took until about 5:30 or so---then installed the manual steering/crossmember, a '84 GL wagon 8 7/8" flywheel/clutch & a .5mm overbore engine I had into the GLF--it was about 8:30pm at this point--went home & crashed:dead:--Sunday I was back at O-dark 30am (more COFFEE!)--and removed all the computer controls--set-up a basis wire harness & preped for a custom exaust system--took until 1pm or so--called it a done deal for the weekend & went home-- Now the fun stuff--- Got the exaust shop to do a dual 2" system (from head back) balance-piped at the bellhousing area, to a dual in/ dual out Flowmaster with twin tips--had to add a couple of small glas packs about 2/3's back to cut the sound a bit. The 3rd pic shows down the tunnel--didn't have much room for the small 'pacs--so we staggered them--the car revs real well up to redline--power comes in at 2000/2500-- My 40MM Delorto showed up & I got a welding/machine shop to start building the intake----(Update) Manifold will be done on Monday:-\ The car performs MUCH better--& I am working on about a -20hr sleep load:grin: First race is May 15/16 --- still have to finish the body mods---wish me luck----

40MM Delorto--think of a side-draft Weber (two 40MM throats), but the Delorto has a REAL choke & a ported vaccum source (for the Dist)---The internal size is 32MM--the throttle plates are 40MM. So, the pair is 64MM--not far from a throttle body. It's a big, honkin' carb--- It will live where the spare tire was---

Well-Its been long road & only the last couple of days have been fun--:-\ The GLF was a a fully loaded car--Power Steering--A/C--Cruise control & now it has NONE of these--Basher (the '85 GL Hatch) got a few things he never had before------ It started on Friday after work-I R&R'd the engine-A/C & Power Steering/Front crossmember out of the '82--that took about 4.5 hrs--went home--came back the next day (Sat) at 7:30am (LOTS OF COFFEE) & R&R'd the engine & manual steering/crossmember out of the hatch & then installed the power stuff & A/C in--then checked the engine & re-installed it---this took until about 5:30 or so---then installed the manual steering/crossmember, a '84 GL wagon 8 7/8" flywheel/clutch & a .5mm overbore engine I had into the GLF--it was about 8:30pm at this point--went home & crashed:dead:--Sunday I was back at O-dark 30am (more COFFEE!)--and removed all the computer controls--set-up a basis wire harness & preped for a custom exaust system--took until 1pm or so--called it a done deal for the weekend & went home-- Now the fun stuff--- Got the exaust shop to do a dual 2" system (from head back) balance-piped at the bellhousing area, to a dual in/ dual out Flowmaster with twin tips--had to add a couple of small glas packs about 2/3's back to cut the sound a bit. My 40MM Delorto showed up & I got a welding/machine shop to start building the intake---- Pics will be coming this weekend---hoping the manifold will be done Thur/Fri:clap: The car performs MUCH better--& I am working on about a -20hr sleep load:grin: First race is May 15/16 --- still have to finish the body mods---wish me luck----

Hi There-- I've designed the front & rear control arm bushings--Doing the Solo Subie---take a look---http://performancebydesign.netfirms.com/ Might think about the motor mounts if there is enough interest---

Yea--It's becoming that time of year--In no real order--- 1. Have a radiator shop rod-out your radiator or tell you that it's junk-- 2. Do a engine block flush--its amazing how much drek accumulates in the block--- 3. I've found that installing a 70's Chev 160 deg thermostat (yes--it will fit in the housing) with a 1/4 hole drilled near the edge & installed at the "top" will work great during the summer--remove it for winter use!! 4. Install a new cooling fan thermo switch (if installed) & I wire a lighted on/off switch for emergency backup (if you wire it right, it will light up every time the fan comes on--VERY handy!!) 5. Make sure all the hoses are good--and be sure to check the little #@#@# that comes off the waterpump--I've see more than one car blow a engine from that hose!! 6. Add an oil cooler--remember that oil will cool your engine better than water--its where the heat NEEDS to be removed 7. Change the anti-freeze every other year (at least)-- 8. Make sure that your timing-fuel mix & tune-up are as good as you can make them--- 8. Go out and run over some hondas (just:lol: kidding!!)

Its been a fair amount of hard work--wait til you see the front air dam & rear cap--All the Honda boys will have to MOVE OVER!!!:-p A SUBARU is comin' thru!!

Just dropped you an "E"--I'm in Eagle Point--keep me posted about the parts--maybe I can design some stuff to make it easier-- Dean

**UPDATE** Had to do some re-working on the rear suspension--after driving, the rears had very negative camber & were toe'd-in almost 1". I removed the torsion bar & rewelded the inner control arm pick-up points to a more level position (they were canted 15 deg)--this took out most of the negative camber (now about 1/2 neg) & slotted the outer arm backwards to allow toe ajustment--rear is now at 1/2 neg camber & 1/16 toe-in. Next came the FUN!!! I've got the flairs done in mock-up--just need to have the temp warm enough for fiber-glas--- O--BTW--the seats are out of a early 90's Honda Civic--took some minor work to install (grinding on front mount tabs & welded a new rear mount)--Thought they looked very good in the car--real form-fitting!!

The car is back on the ground---again. It started when I removed the rear torsion bar to change the ride height--to make a story short--the bar was a rusted mess & the outer control parts wouldn't separate from the bar. I decided to install a bar from a 2WD DL wagon--spring rate is MUCH higher- I readjusted the bar up 2 splines & re-set the car--the suspension travel is about 2 1/2--3" real stiff---now the ground clearance is running in the 6" range all the way around. The next job is building the bodywork mods( airdam-rear cap & fender flairs) The bushings are designed for the EA81 cars & I believe that they will work for most of the earlier cars. The EA82 cars use the same fronts--the inner rears are also the same--I need someone to measure the outer control arm bushings--I could have a full car set designed for the later cars (would take 6 bushing sets per car). Pics follow------

The next part of the project is to design a airdam for the front that fits with the style--I'm going to flare the wells about 2" & design a rear cap--No bumpers--they weigh too much. Stay tuned--the body is falling into shape & i've got most of the new intake system parts together--- If anyone wants a copy of the hood--I'll talk to Adam & see if he wants to make some:brow:

Well--the hood I ended up with is a '97 Legacy Outback--no airvents & the lower hoodscoop. I took a panel cutter to the damaged hood & cut 3" all around the scoop---then did all the measuring & cutting on T Rex's hood--Tell me what you guys think------

Just remember--If you don't know--it's not a stupid question & "there are no stupid questions--only stupid answers" Have a great one!

The hub bearings are a "no sweat" deal--The hub has (in order) Inner grease seal--inner bearing--spacer--outer bearing & outer grease seal. The center spacer kind'a moves around without the locking pressure of the CV joint on the bearings--You can push it to one side & get a punch on one bearing or the other--just tap towards the race part of the bearing & that bearing & seal will come out. Then do the same with the opposite bearing--when the hub is cleaned out, you can see the cut-outs for bearing removal--just hard to see them with all the old grease in the way. As for lifespan--I normally see the bearings go about 200,000 before problems--with the CV out, you can roll the bearings & check for roughness or rust--if either is seen, replace both sides. I do mine on a regular basis--after all, they are all that holds the front together..

Just scored a '97 Outback Sport hood today!! Has damage--but all I want is the scoop & front heat vents ( & surrounding sheet metal)--A yard we work with is slipping it to me for $100--Dealer wants that much for just the scoop--I'll be playing with it over the next week or so--as soon as I have pics, I'll post them--Adam was talking about doin' carbon fiber or 'glass parts--if the hood turns out like I want--I might talk to him about a "run":grin:

One good reason for a return line is that you get a constant flow of cool fuel--no pun intended--this decreases the possibility of vapor lock in hot weather as well as increasing the HP output--colder fuel is denser & will provide more power..you can change the amount of return fuel by putting a restrictor orifice in the return line--fancy words for a small piece of metal with a specific-sized hole in it--to change the fuel availible to the carb you can make a restrictor--just start with a very small hole & keep checking the fuel level--when you can make a long run without too much or too little fuel, the hole is sized right---still won't fix a pump that is failing:)

Enjoy sleeping while you can---been there-done that---Lots of luck to you & yours--

Agree on the punch--a small one fits in the end hole great--to re-assemble--there is a OTC tool that makes the job VERY easy--just thread it onto the CV & it pulls the CV thru the bearings--tool is about $35--without it, you have to "bash" things together--I would poke the CV thru as far as possible & position the hub--then use a LARGE socket (bigger than the threads on the CV) & tap it in--brutal--but it works--

Well--let's see--- The Solo II Car is T Rex WRX--as in prehistoric WRX-'82 GLF The Wife's car is "Subie Boobie" (wife's name--not mine!!)-'89 Loyale My '85 hatch is "Basher" (I resurected it from a guardrail incursion) The wife's last car was"Trusty Justy"--over 100k without much work-'91 Justy My last car-'84 GL Wagon-4WD-D/R-"The Crusher"-took everything I could throw at it--wood hauling up a almost vertical shale road to hauling hay-tools-car parts & crashin' thru the brush--I do miss that one----that takes us back 10 yrs & thousands of great miles---

I got the front suspension back together & ran T Rex awhile--handling is much better--needs to be at least 3" lower---

You need to come out West & kick some Ford/Chev/Dodge/Jeep rump roast!!!! I tend to go low & fast---but I really like the way you put a lot of thought & detail into that RIDE--:headbang:

You got it--I found out this evening that the rear inners (at least the 4WD ones) are the same as the front inners--check this out--one bushing type at both ends of the car--so I can do a full car set for $60 + shipping

Well-if the pulley runs the water pump--no pulley = no cooling. I'd put real short bolts in the pulley (remember to use blue locktight on them;) ) & put a new belt on