redscab

a crunched rod bearing will be tons louder than a "tick"

sounds like the circuit you are using to power it already has too much stuff on it or connections in that circuit are corroded causing more resistance for the whole circuit... is it a stock bulb? you might want to just look at the 3AT 4WD diagram to see what all is on that circuit, and see if there's a way to isolate the power and ground for it to see if it changes anything...

both times it appeared to be pushed out. the first time, was after a long day of driving, capped by a drive through the Smokey Mountains into Georgia. the second time, there was nothing out of the ordinary for driving... tech thought maybe the 1st replacement by dealer in GA was maybe not in all the way? but said we'll need to monitor it, just in case...

2009 Forester XT. Wife's Daily Driver. Should I be worried? just rolled over 60k, so no more warranty left...

Do you have more info on this? thanks, Red

The old gen crowd has a lot of "old gen folks" (me included) who bypass these types of posts because it's just a "for fun" activity and don't necessarily have the time to go through all the posts..... and I don't get on very often..... ...and I voted Brat

thanks, got my answers from a fella named Zapar...

Please :) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=638069#post638069

they don't have the measurements I'm asking for....

If you could post the dimensions for each of the 12 red lines for either vehicle, I'd much appreciate it. thanks, RS

the float is used to work the needle valve letting fuel into the bowl from the fuel inlet. it has nothing to do with it running rich or not. it can be adjusted as Chef Tim has shown, for off roading, so that the level in the bowl is more controlled for bad angles when off-roading. in normal operation the fuel is sucked from the bowl through the main jets by vacuum created in your intake. the idle circuit (screw diagonal into corner of carb just above disty) control the fuel for the idle circuit. when it's turned all the way in, it closes off the fuel at idle and the car dies. if you have it out too far you're wasting gas, and probable compensating for the running in another manner. there are resources on the web for weber tuning. best best is to put it back to "stock" settings, and then make sure you timing and idle speed are back to stock. then try adjustments from there. at least you are on the west coast, when your gas is a bit cleaner and probably oxygenated (sp)... When I've been in WA, I've gotten the kind of mileage you'd expect, but in the heartland of the country, you're lucky to get 21-22 max. most of the time between 15-17 realistically, because I have a heavy foot, and like to drive that way. Even a nicely tuned/running hitachi, I get 24 max.

it's tough isn't it... this fall I'm getting a 85 d/r wagon for $200 just for the tranny (fairly hard to find around here anymore)... it's only got 75k on it, but it's been sitting for 6-7 years since the clutch went out.....

are you using a stock sender then, or aftermarket for the remote set-up?

no price sheets at our yard.... rear diff $150 engine $350 trans $275 door $50 seat $20 alt $25 disty $25 Ps pump $25 PS pump Bracket $10 PS Pump Hose $10 axle $25 high console $10 PW electronics in High colsole $25 any electrical component is basically $25

never heard that one.... but the EA82 RX front springs will fit on EA81 struts, to give you about an inch of lift...