Fairtax4me

The only other thing I can think of would be the tail and illumination lamp relay is stuck. Remove the relay and if the lights go out it could be a problem with the relay or wiring between the relay and the lights. The switch draws power direct from the fuse box, so if removing the relay does not make the lights turn off, suspect a problem with the switch. The switch can be bypassed by clipping the wires where they run down the column with the rest of the harness. But you need to splice two of the wires together or the park lamps won't work at all. Or possibly something like an aftermarket alarm or remote start or some other wire related accessory that was installed by a PO and has gone kaput. See any stray wires with crimp connectors or crimp splices under the dash?

It sounds more like what you want is a race car. When you start swapping engines and transmissions and drivetrains that "showroom" look goes right out the window no matter how hard you try to keep it "clean". The only thing that keeps it "clean" is to leave it stock stank. That's been my experience at least. What Frankenmotor setup do you have that gave you a 44hp and 54tq bump?

Low battery voltage would be my first guess, but those could also come on because of a low brake fluid level.

Cut the wires and crimp a new connector on. The crimp and shrink connectors work best for wiring under the hood that is exposed to the elements.

Did you try the FWD fuse?

Right. ECT sensor is the brownish color plug (2 wires) on the crossover pipe.

What about rear axles? If you put the FWD fuse in does it change the noise?

Cold start problem and fans running could be the ECT sensor. Its hard to see and easily missed when plugging everything back in. Should be below the #3 intake runner just under where the wiring harness runs under the manifold.

Glad you got it fixed! Yes that EGR flare nut can be a pain. I bought a $35 17mm flare nut wrench from Mac tools just for that. The first time I had to mess with one of those I had a cheapo flare wrench from advancezone that wouldn't touch it. It just slipped around it.

I find it hard to imagine the same guy stealing 90 cars in a month, but if they're easy to get into (and numerous) then all he has to do is drive the stolen car a few blocks, swipe the goods and look for the next car. Park the stolen one and drive off in the next. But that many cars go missing... Someone is bound to have security camera footage of the person(s) doing it.

I did a bit of googling myself and it seems people have good luck replacing or disassembling and cleaning the door lock switch. On the Legacys of that era the lock timer is behind the dash in the passenger corner. Roughly above/to the right of the blower motor. It's just a couple relays and an IC in a fancy plastic box. But when it goes bad causes this exact problem. I haven't found any info about location on a 99 forester (or if it even has it). Its usually a black box a little smaller than a credit car with a sticker on it that says "door lock timer" if you want to look around under the dash and try to spot it.

As long as the new valves are lapped to the correct seat width they'll be fine. On a race car or high performance build I would say otherwise. Machine shops charge an arm and a leg here for valve service and some won't touch it unless you let them do every valve on the head. Makes a two valve replacement job cost more than a used head. Your shop may vary.

Pressure testers for these don't have to be anything fancy. A typical fuel injection pressure tester should show up to about 120-150 psi, though you probably won't ever need to test anything that high. There are high pressure testers that read up to several hundred Bar, but unless you're testing high pressure direct injection or diesel there is no need for one of those. ($$$$) Actron has a decent kit for about $100 last I checked that comes with a bunch of tees and adapters for many different test ports. Craftsman has one that costs a bit more but it looks like a better quality set than the actron. Mac, Shnap-on, etc. will all run you a few hundred easy. I like amazon for good prices. Tooltopia generally has good prices as well, and free shipping over a certain amount. I think its $75.

A knock sensor. It detects pinging, and the ECU will retard ignition timing in order to correct and prevent the condition from ruining the engine. Pinging can break pistons if left unchecked. I think your wiring difference was the difference between an OBD1 and OBD2 car. By 95 model year the Legacy in the US was OBD2 compliant, but in other markets that change didn't happen until later, sometimes as late as 98 from what I can tell. (For most major automakers. Some markets still have not mandated emissions control, and smaller makers may not have OBD systems at all).

You're supposed to use the new valves to grind the seats. The whole point of grinding is to get the profile of the new valve to match the seat so that it seals properly. It takes very little force to bend these valves, so a lack of marks on the piston is not surprising.

Door lock timer is going bad. Kinda common. I don't know exactly where it is on the Forester. There may be some better help in google-land on the location. I recall there being an option for automatic locks on some of the later uears, bu I don't think that particular year would have that. If it doesn't say anything about it in the owners manual...

Door lock timer is going bad. Kinda common. I don't know exactly where it is on the Forester. There may be some better help in google-land on the location. I recall there being an option for automatic locks on some of the later uears, bu I don't think that particular year would have that. If it doesn't say anything about it in the owners manual...

Alternators are typically 3 phase, so have 6 rectifier diodes, and they can usually have at least two more between the bridge and the regulator. Most have the diode bridge soldered directly to the windings. Not sure on Subarus alts.

I knew there was something I was forgetting before. Power steering. Just unbolt the pump from the bracket (3 bolts) and remove the two bolts that secure the lines to the bracket on the manifold, then pick the pump up and just set if off to the side. Hey Doc! Glad to see you're still around here! I hadn't seen you post anything for a while.

Only way to cause no spark to one cylinder is a problem with in the coil. Replace the coil and you should be good.

The vibration and subsequent tire failure are probably due to a broken belt in the tire, or tread separation. CEL can not be related to a tire as the ECU doesn't have a way to check tires or any mechanical issue related to the tires. The code may have come on because of the vibration causing the wiring to the trans to shake and cause an intermittent connection. How old is the ATF and have you checked the fluid level?

Number 1: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_5/cooling_system/water_pump/ If the rest of the pipe is really rusty go ahead and replace it. New is about $50 from Subaru. Used is much cheaper if you find a good one, or go to a u-pull yard and get one yourself. You can also familiarize yourself with the removal of the manifold. Manifold on these is easy because pretty much everything stays on the manifold. Remove intake tubing, disconnect fuel hoses over by the filter, two small coolant hoses, three plugs at the bellhousing, both ECT sensor plugs, , knock sensor plug, crank and cam sensor plugs and the oil pressure sender. A handful of vacuum hoses and then remove 8 bolts and lift the manifold off of the engine. You could replace the heater hoses while you're in there if you want. The crossover pipe o-rings can get brittle and start leaking, so those can be done with the manifold off if you want. Be careful with the bolts because they are skinny and tend to rust inside the bolt holes in the pipe. At the very least replace the bypass elbow and the two small diameter hoses that attach to the throttle body and the IACV, and connect to the bypass pipe and the crossover pipe.

I don't remember if those have fuses for the O2 sensor heaters. Check the fuse box. The codes setting immediately says the heaters may not be getting power, or the heater circuit could be shorted to ground. I would suspect a power problem since you have those codes for both front and rear sensors. Plugs wires, basic tune-up is a good place to start. Vacuum leaks do have an effect on these but a small leak sometimes isn't noticeable at all. If that engine has the small idle air control valve on the side of the throttle body, remove it and clean the cone and the bore in the TB. A sticky IACV can cause it to stall.

You may be better off to order a new sleeve kit. The screw on sleeves are larger diameter than the press-on types you get from most parts stores, thus the parts store press-sleeve TOB may not fit over the screw-on sleeve. The screw on sleeve TOBs are generally expensive, even online.

6 pin relay would be the main relay which would cut power to everything engine computer/ fuel injection related.