Fairtax4me

Did you check both sides? If you have 14v on both sides it's because of a bad ground. Hatch wiring tends to break near the rubber boot where the wiring goes from the body to the hatch.

Cool thanks! What is the dotted set of lines?

2.5 manifold won't fit on the 2.2. Need a 2.2 manifold with EGR. I don't have ECU pinout for a 98 Impreza but I would think the pinout is different between Impreza and Legacy.

Timing jump will cause misfires, but typically will be limited to the side that jumped. 1&3 on passenger side or 2&4 on drivers. Timing jumped on drivers side can set misfire codes for all 4 because the cam sensor is on drivers side. If the timing jumps at the crank you'll likely get misfires on all 4. The coils are controlled by the igniter module on the firewall. Small rectangular black box dead center above the dogbone mount. 5 wires on the plug there, make sure the pins are clean and its plugged in tight and no wires chewed by mice. With just misfire codes for 3&4 I would be looking at plugs wires and coil/igniter wiring. These often leak coolant slow from the thermostat housing (where lower radiator hose meets the block). Usually new thermostat gasket will fix that.

Not overdue by distance (would you call it kilometerage instead of mileage?) but it is 3 years overdue by 10 year time limit.

Pinout changed in 98. If the ECU came from a 97 or earlier all the pins are in different places so the sensor signals aren't going where they're supposed to, thus, you get no fire. 2.2 ECU is probably toast now. Did the 2.2 manifold have EGR? If not you'll need to get one to get rid of the EGR codes.

I surely have not. I haven't had time to mess with it. Too busy with school. GFs car has been parked mostly since she got the 06 Foz and I've been driving my 96 lately. Last time I drove my 95 it was still doing the jumpy thing. Actually I was driving home from school and tried to record it. Picked up my phone and by the time I got the camera pulled up and switched to video... It stopped. Never did it again after that the rest of the way home. Before that I rode around for a week with my scanner hooked up to see if I could see the speed reading from the ECU change at the same time as the speedometer and had no luck. It never acted up. Couple days later it did it again, but didn't have the scanner with me that time.! It knows I'm trying to figure out what it is and it's toying with me! If you figure it out before I do, please let me know!

Good find! I wasn't aware that button would make the locks cycle. I've only ever dealt with those for disarming the alarm. Usually I just reconnect the battery with the key on so the horn doesn't blast.

I think the fan turn on temp is 204°F. The ECU grounds the fan relays when it wants the fans to turn on. If its cold outside it will take a while for it to get warm enough. Keep the hood closed to keep heat in the engine bay. You can try running it at about 2000 rpm for a few minutes to help heat things up.

Kinda sounds like torque bind. The center differential in the trans will need to be replaced to fix that. The main cause of center differential failure is mismatched tire sizes or mixing 2 new tires with 2 old tires.

I think alot of people here would be interested to see actual dyno numbers for a Frankenmotor like this. Its a common build, and we see lots of questions about how much power it will make. If you get a chance to dyno it again (with its current mods) please post up a graph or a pic of the datasheet.

Wish I had the patience to make my engine that clean! Mine looks like a mud factory.

You'll probably be able to find adapters that work for Ford and GM vehicles, but not for Subaru. The diagnostic plugs are in there somewhere. They're probably taped in the harness like Heartless said. Poke around some more and you'll find them.

No kill switch that I know of but there are plenty of things that can cause no-start after a wreck. How long has it been sitting? Old gas could be the problem. Fuel pumps on those have a common issue that may have been assisted in failure by a rollover. Wires could be cut, fuel lines could be pinched. Depending on severity there could be damaged sensors on the engine, crank/cam sensors, MAF sensor, etc. that would cause a no-start.

Amperage of the fuse doesn't matter. It's just a signal ground for the TCU that tells it to relieve fluid pressure on the AWD clutch pack. If the light didn't come on, possibly the bulb is burned out. The easy way to tell that is find some gravel/dirt and stop, then stomp on the skinny pedal and see if the front wheels spin. If it's still in AWD the wheels may spin just a bit then the rears will kick in and the car takes off. If its in FWD the fronts will just keep spinning. If it doesn't go to Fwd with the fuse in there could be a wiring issue between the TCU and the fuse holder.

Usually there is an intermittent wiper control module that you have to swap as well, but not sure on these. I've done it before on other cars and you just need the stalk the module and the short harness between the two. The wires going out to the wiper motor are generally the same.

What kind of noise? The rear wipers get used the least so they often have problems like seized bearings or corrosion. Gears are plastic intentionally, so the arm doesn't jam and bend/break something else, like the rear window. Also plastic gears don't rust, they're lighter, and they're cheaper to make. The motors don't last forever so no point making a bullet-proof drivetrain.

If you pull the heads off the block is easy to pick up and carry around. It even has nice convenient round hand-holes to grip it!

Ah I see now, you made a new thread! Welcome to the board! Those cars like to chew up wheel bearings. They can make winding/whirring sounds. If you're sure it's coming from the center then it could be the carrier bearing on the driveshaft.

Still a decent bump at the wheels. Supporting mods I suppose are intake/exhaust? Was the original engine 1.8 or 2.2?

Probably the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. They don't last forever, and bearings don't like the cold. Worst case Ontario...

Trailer wiring can sometimes cause problems, but usually when the light switch is On. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like power for the lights comes through fuse 23 (underhood) and splits to the tail&illum. Relay, and to the park light switch on the column. Pull that fuse and see if the lights turn off. If they turn off, good chance the problem is either the tail&illum. relay or the park lamp switch on the column. If they DON'T turn off, you have a back feed somewhere which could be in the illumination circuit in the dash. Possibly in the radio harness if it has an aftermarket head unit. Or you could have a short between the trunk light wiring and the tail lamp wiring in the trunk. Possibly at/near the hinge point of the trunk lid. Fuse 25 (underhood) powers the trunk light.

I bought a 95 wagon with a burned valve on number 1. Engine had been overheated as well. Head gasket was blown out on 4 and I think it ran low on coolant which contributed to the burn. Whole cooling system on that car was a mess, except for the spankin new radiator!

I spotted a gen2 outback parked down the street from my house a few days ago and asked if they mind if I measured their fog lights. Baja and Gen2 OBW fog lights are a full 6" across. I think closer to 6-1/4" edge to edge but they still had the rock guards on and I wasn't about to try and pry those off. I will be ordering a set of those... when I get some money... Can't beat $65 for a pair brand new on Amazon.

Not sure about a "mini" version of the elm, I've seen reference to the Elm327 many times here and people have had success with it. Perhaps the version you bought just doesn't have to correct firmware or something. This is something you do kind of have to watch out for with diagnostic scanners/adapters. Not every scanner will connect to every car. You may have an adapter that only works with the J series OBD2 protocol (computer equivalent of language) most Subarus use the ISO protocol, so it can't connect with your ECU. To you or me this might be like the difference between speaking American English and British English. They're not so different that we can't understand each with maybe a little difficulty. But to a computer it's like the difference between English and Greek. Something you may want to check though, make sure none of your fuses are blown. The Obd2 port has a 12v wire that powers the scanner or adapter when it's plugged in. No power to the scanner means it can't turn on.