Fairtax4me

Did you test both sensors with another meter? If the old TPS wasn't actually bad, put it back on and adjust it, send the new one back maybe If the code doesn't come back in a few weeks. It does suck to diagnose things that way, but it happens. The acceleration problem has the symptoms of a bad knock sensor. Search for my Knock sensor 101 thread for details on that.

It's not like they can run it through a meat slicer. They run it on a big drum that eats rubber off the tire. You should rotate them though, so the tires with the most tread are on the front since the front tires wear faster.

Generally there will be a "Security" red LED light somewhere on the drivers side. The factory alarm module is usually behind the dash on the drivers side. It should have a sticker on it that says alarm module or something to that effect .

That's a late build date. I would think its a 99MY with that build, which would make more sense for the wiring change. What's the VIN?

No gasket on the engine oil pan. The stuff Gloyale mentioned seals faster than plain RTV.

Cars101.com Look in the Archive section.

Nope. Its a 98 with the 4 pin coil? What's the build date? Does it have an igniter on the firewall above the pitch mount?

Oh! Well... In that case, either someone dumped a gallon of coolant into the wrong hole, or you have the worst blown head gasket I've heard of in a Subaru.

In have to question if there was coolant/moisture just in the cap, or if it was on the dipstick down in the pan. The inside of the engine will naturally collect moisture as water/humidity in the air condenses on the metal surfaces inside the engine. Normally when the car is driven regularly for long distances (more than 10-15 miles) the engine gets hot and any moisture will evaporate and be burned off with the other crankcase vapors via the PCV system. If the car is only driven very short distances the moisture doesn't have the chance to evaporate, so it stays in the engine. It will normally collect at the higher points such as inside the oil filler tube and cap, and in the top areas of the dipstick tube. The way to avoid this is to drive the car. At least once a week you want to get the car up to full operating temperature and drive it for 20-30 minutes to get that moisture to evaporate out of the engine. If it continues to be a problem, it will need the head gaskets replaced. Be sure to keep an eye on oil level in the engine, and coolant level in the radiator.

I assume the cable broke under the hood? On a few of the older cars (95-99) I've seen the cable sheath break where it attaches to the metal bracket just behind the release latch. Usually when that happens you can just pop the sheath back into the little hook there and hold it in place while you pull the latch. If the cable broke under the hood... Sometimes you can get to the latch from below the bumper. Remove the splash shield at the front and maybe you can reach up with a pick tool or screwdriver to get to the latch assembly. Or you may be able to go through the lower fender well /bumper liner on the drivers side with a coat hanger. Other than that, you'll probably have to go through the grille.

I've fixed more rusted out brake lines than I care to think about. Its scary how many vehicles have ticking time bombs for brake lines. And I'm not talking just 3,000lb Subarus, I'm mean 6,000lb pickup trucks and vans.

The rear diffs on these are under so little stress normally that the original gear oil will pretty much last the life of the car. In the picture that gear oil looks pretty clean, so either A: it's old and its clean because the rear diffs don't stress oil that much, or B: someone recently changed it to cover up a condition of abuse, such as water contamination. How many miles on the car? How long have you owned it? Has the rear diff fluid ever been changed during your ownership?

If it's an automagic put the Fwd fuse in and see if it still makes noise. If its a manual just stop driving it. If the axle breaks you'll be stuck on the side of the road.

Probably just a cross wind blowing across some part of the car that isn't normally exposed to high winds when driving. Unless you hear it again at lower speeds or when it is not very windy out, don't worry about it too much.

I can imagine one possible scenario where it Might cause a problem but it's very very unlikely. Something like a bad ECT or crankshaft position sensor or a dead fuel pump are more likely.

Could be the alarm system going haywire. That will flash the parking lights.

Probably won't notice a difference until you get to 5th gear. You'll be cruising about 300rpm lower on the highway. You might notice a little difference in acceleration in 1-3, but not much. The speedometer will probably read slow by 3-5 mph because of different gearing driving the speed sensor.

People run the walbro 255s and 300s in turbo cars where they need tons of extra fuel. You can run pretty much any standard fuel pump and it will supply more than enough fuel for a non-turbo engine. Why do you need a new fuel pump? Did the old one quit? Have you checked fuses and made sure the pump is gettig power? Have you checked the wiring connector on top of the pump housing for corrosion/burning?

Does it have a sunroof? The drain tubes on the sunroof pop off and water runs down the inside of the A pillar trim and will fill the floor with water. I've also seen the drain holes in the bottom of the door clog and water runs in from behind the lower edge of the door panel after the bottom of the door fills up. Need to figure that out ASAP because the ECU is on the floor on that side. IIRC there is also another module under the passenger seat carpet.

2.2 will work but you will need to swap wiring harness, sensors and possibly fuel injectors from the 2.5 manifold onto the 2.2 manifold. 2.5 manifold will not fit on the 2.2. Easy thing would be to find a 2.2 manifold from a 95 with EGR and you can just run a hose to the EGR valve to keep the CEL off. Use your 2.5 flexplate.

Nope. The 3342 has something to do with bearing size IIRC. The best way to tell the year is to look the the lower left corner of the bellhousing for a VIN engraved in the block. There's a small pad about 1"x2" and the VIN runs vertically. It can be hard to see and read since its usually covered in dirt/grime. 10th digit of the vin is the model year. If no VIN, we can come up with a guesstimated ballpark year based on some of the physical features. An easy thing to check is the exhaust ports. If it has 2 per head (dual port) its in the 90-95 range. One port per head (single port) makes it a 96-98 engine. The OBD1 engines are common swaps into other vehicles because of the simplicity of the computer and wiring. That would put it in the 90-94 range. But the engine wiring harness is mainly attached to the intake manifold, and the manifolds can be easily swapped between 90-98 engines. (Same with the cylinder heads and pretty much everything else that can be bolted onto the block. So there's no guarantee that the block came from a certain year based on the heads or any other parts that are bolted to it.)

Subaru MTs eat mainshaft bearings at 175k, almost guaranteed. Autos have far better survival rate in these cars.

The difference isn't so much in the heads as it is the intake manifold. The electronics on the manifold (TPS, IAC, fuel injectors,etc) all changed in 99, and the manifold bolt pattern around the ports changed. Because of the physical differences in the manifolds and the sensors, you can't put a 99 or newer manifold on a 98-older head. (Not without a custom made adapter) Nor can you use the 98-older manifold with the 99-newer electrics. The manifold has to stay within the year range of vehicle that it came from (90-98) or (99-04ish) so the wiring and electronics match. The heads then have to match the manifold. A workaround for this if you want to bolt the 2.5 block into a 99+ car is to use 99-01 2.2 heads, but those are basically the same as the 2.5 heads anyway, so not much point.

Intermotor Standard Motor Products. Intermotor is one of their electronic parts divisions. Dead spot in the new one sounds fishy to me. But its in roughly the same range as the old one. This one has 4 pins in the connector right? I wonder if it has two separate resistive slides in it and when the sweep slides across to the next one you're seeing the loss because the two are temporarily bridged. I'll have to do some digging on that one.

The other cable is for the hill holder mechanism on the frame down below the brake master cylinder. Pull on the cable and make sure the hill holder isn't locked up. If it moves freely hook it back up.