Fairtax4me

They ain't cheap here. Any engine 2000 or newer, junkyards want $1000+. Old 2.2s you can get for $400-700 with 100-175k on them.

Magic eraser is too abrasive for leather and will likely damage the color coating. A professional detailer will probably charge $100-150 for an interior cleaning and leather treatment, and they may not be able to remove all of the staining. It's kind of a crap-shoot. Especially if you have red clay dirt in your area. Red clay stains badly and usually doesn't completely come out. There could also be staining due to any "leather" treatments the previous owner may have used. Alot of people like to use Armor-all on leather, and armor-all only makes the dirt sink in further.

Ehhk! Pukesburg! Those a friggin gross! Dogs and kids have seen to the ruin of many a leather seat. The best you can do is clean them with a damp cloth with dish soap and warm water. You don't want water dripping all over because it will harden and shrink the leather, so wring the cloth out well before wiping the seats. After everything is dry apply a leather conditioner. The stuff in the brown bottles at the auto parts store works well. Lexol? I haven't used any in a while, can't remember the name off-hand. There may be some cracks/lines in the color coating on the leather. This is normal with age and use and wear. The brown stuff is not normal (on these) and may not all clean off.

At least you're not in Michigan. We get enough salt where I am in VA. I do not want to go any further north or west and have to deal with the salt there. Only about half the state has to use salt though. East of Richmond practically never even sees snow. Except for this past winter. They had over 20" for the season in Virginia Beach. I lived there for 10 years and saw snow maybe twice.

You do have the original heads? What became of the block?

Yes. Subaru has a TSB out with the quickest way to set all of the emissions monitors. I posted a thread a few years ago with info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134825-subaru-tsb-how-to-set-your-im-monitors-for-emissions-testing/

Do you use the felt washer things under the terminals? Those help. A big problem with lead acid batteries is the acid tends to seep out of the caps that sit up on top of the battery. The acid eventually runs over to the posts and creates a path for electricity to flow from post to post or post to ground. Very small amounts of electricity, but any is enough to cause problems. The felt things help keep the acid from getting to the posts. Another thing that can help is to smear some grease only around the bottom of the post. Wiping grease on top keeps corrosion off the top, but doesn't do anything for the bottom of the post and terminal. Be careful no to smear grease directly On the post. The post needs to stay clean where the terminal clamps on. Applying grease all over the post decreases surface contact with the terminal and leads to burning of the post and terminal under high current draw (when starting). Burning = heat, and heat leads to more corrosion.

Rattle at startup? What kind of oil filter is on it? If its Fram you need to change it. Regardless of the oil filter, a rattle will not set a knock sensor code. The sensor detects only a specific frequency range and does not set codes when it picks up knocks in that range. You will only get a knock sensor code if the resistance of the sensor element is out of range (internal damage or corrosion), or if the sensor is unplugged.

Those aren't known to get great mileage but should be a little better than that. 24-26 should be attainable if driven conservatively. Head gaskets will foul O2 sensors. Did you replace the front sensor? If so, what brand? What brand of spark plugs did you put in?

Looks right to me. Pull the fuel pump. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130624-2000-outback-fuel-pump-assembly-metal-cap-is-broken/

The ECU doesn't really ignore the O2 sensors. They don't create any signal until they get hot. Thy need to be about 600°F before they start sending an accurate signal to the ECU. The ECU watches the signals the whole time, it just can't do anything with that info until it becomes stable after the sensors heat up. The idle air control valve doesn't need to heat up. It's always under the command of the ECU. The idle valve opens and closes and adjusts constantly to set the idle speed. When the engine is cold the idle control valve is opened up to increase engine speed during warm-up. As the engine warms, the idle speed starts to lower because the idle control valve is closing. It's common for the IAC valve to get dirty or gummed up with carbon and crud from the PCV system. When this happens the valve may not move smoothly, or it may not be able to move along its full travel and get jammed. This would cause the valve to stop responding to the ECU commands to either raise or lower idle speed, and will set a code for Idle Control. Vacuum leaks will also cause idle control codes, because the idle valve may move all the way closed and still the ECU cannot achieve the target idle speed. The ECU doesn't have a way to know that the valve is all the way closed, it just knows that its not responding to commands to change the idle speed. A stuck open evap purge control solenoid valve is a vacuum leak.

Ground problems cause all kinda problems. The ECUs main grounds run through the harness connector to the intake manifold. Glad to hear you found the problem!

US market vehciles did not have them at that time. Not sure about markets. If its not somewhere behind the glove box or under the blower box/housing, the only other place it might be is under the wiper cowl panel where the fresh air vent for the blower is.

Tried www.car-part.com?

You're sure you didn't knock loose any hoses under the hood? Unhook the battery negative. Wait about 30 minutes. Hook it back up, start the engine and just let it idle. Don't try to keep RPMs up if they're low. Don't touch anything. If it stalls, cycle the key and just restart the engine. Don't touch the gas or anything. Let it idle until the radiator fans turn on, then shut it off. Restart then go for a drive. It's best if you can get it up to about 55 for 10 minutes or so, but if around town is the best you can do that'll work. Just ride around for about 30-45 minutes.

I had thought about the type of joint possibly making a difference but the only type I can see being vastly different than the other ball type joints would be a tripod style. I know the tripod joints can wear significantly to the point they start to bind with high mileage, but I cant imagine they have any more play than any other style joint when new. Something interesting I found while digging around in the FSMs I have. A Subaru with a 5mt trans, it will have DOJ style inner joint on the front axles. The rear axles also differ somehow from left to right. With AT trans it will have tripod inner joints on the front axles. Rear axles are the same with an AT.

The charge cable fried? Or the smaller wires for the plug fried? The only reason wires cook is because too many amps are moving through them. If there was corrosion inside the wires that lowers their carrying capacity and will cause them to fry easier.

You can check it now but it would be better to wait until it happens again.

Poor contact at the ignition switch doesn't necessarily mean NO contact. It only takes about 5 volts to make a relay coil click, but that's not nearly enough to make the starter solenoid click. I agree, quick and dirty test would be to jumper the wires together and should tell you right away if the relay is bad. Checking voltage in and out of the relay will tell you the same thing if there is a substantial difference in voltage. Low voltage going into the relay would suggest the ignition switch rather than the relay.

Reman alt is gonna be trouble unless it came from Subaru. If the threads on the post are OK clean any corrosion off with a wire brush and use a new 10mm nut. Apply some di-electric grease or anti-seize lightly to the threads to prevent rust.

Reman alt is gonna be trouble unless it came from Subaru. If the threads on the post are OK clean any corrosion off with a wire brush and use a new 10mm nut. Apply some di-electric grease or anti-seize lightly to the threads to prevent rust.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/82501AC030/ Looks like $23 list price. Online dealer pricing anywhere from $16-20. Still a chance it may not be the relay so I would recommend checking voltage at the relay when it acts up. Relay gets its power through the ignition switch "Start" contact. Poor contact there would cause the same problem.

Yes I believe that's the one. The old cam sprockets have 7 teeth on the back.

Overheating is probably low coolant level or faulty thermostat. These are tricky to fill sometimes and can get big air pockets in the block. Need to make sure the coolant is full. Should have taken about 1.5 gallons when refilling. If it took any less than that you have an air pocket. Also Subarus are picky about thermostats. The cheapo parts store stats cause trouble due to inferior design. The stat has to be of OE design or it will cause problems. Stant and Gates both offer OE equivalent thermostats available at most parts stores. Stant Exact-stat 48457 or Gates 34012. Fuel pump problem is very likely on that year. There is a cap on the pump assembly that cracks and bleeds fuel pressure back into the tank. Replacement caps can be bought but are pricey. Also need a new o-ring not included with the cap.

X2. Tell them you need the part number. Then you can google it and find out for sure. Also be sure to get the matching cam sprocket.