Fairtax4me

In 98 or 99 they switched to a internal spring mechanism because the spring on the outside could rust and fall off, or get knocked off if you run over a stick or something. Rattling from the shifter is usually the bushings on the shift lever where the linkage rod attaches. It could be the bushings or the bolt that attaches the linkage to the lever. It's easy to check, just pop up the center console cover and wiggle the shifter a little bit back and forth while looking for play in the bolt or bushings. The bolt may just need to be tightened a little. Be carefule though because tightening that bolt too much may inhibit free travel of the shift lever.

Manual trans is a whole different beast. My fault for assuming you had an automagic. No amount of flushing or fluid changing will cure torque bind in a manual.

I've replaced those bushings on my car, but the trailing arms are much easier to remove on the 95-99 models. I imagine it could be done with a ball joint press if you have the proper sized adapters. I had to remove the arm and put it in a press though. The bushings can be a paint to press out, but once the bore is clean the new bushings go in easily.

Possibly the pins are swapped. Any way to flip the plug over and still be able to plug it in? Could also be the new sensor is shorted internally, or shorted across the pins. IIRC High resistance = cold, low resistance = hot. Did you accidentally get coolant in the connector before plugging it in?

It will not help to change the IACV. That code is being set because of another problem, likely the speed sensor issue. The ECU is trying to set idle speed when you lift your foot off the pedal at speed because it doesn't know the car is moving. It can't set idle because the wheels are turning the engine, so it determines there must be an issue with the IACV and sets a code. Speed sensor 2 is in the instrument cluster and has to get signal from the main speed sensor 1 on the transmission. Speed sensor 2 converts the 8 pulse speed signal to a 4 pulse speed signal that it sends to the ECU. ECU uses that signal to determine vehicle speed and uses it along with throttle position and engine RPM readings to alter idle valve opening. The gears for the speed sensor output in the transmission are a fairly common failure. Most people just live with it but I've never heard of anyone having stalling problems because of it. The problems you're having sound like the symptoms of a bad or stuck nuetral position switch. This is a switch on the side of the trans that the ECU uses to tell when the transmission is in gear. It doesn't care which gear, just needs to know if its in gear or not in gear. It uses this switch to hangs idle settings and fuel/spark mapping. A bad nuetral position switch can cause erratic and/or low idle and stalling. It's a simple switch, either on or off, so its easy to test. It's the furthest back on the drivers side of the transmission.

I would say just run it with the EJ22 harness but there are probably differences in the idle control and the 2.2 harness and ECU won't run the newer style IAC. Conversely, keeping the 2.0 harness does you no good. There is no way to make the ignition wiring differences work. The ECU and igniter send different signals to the COPs than they do to a single coil pack. It's much more involved than simply hooking up two wires. You could certainly run a single coil IF you have an ECU and harness that's compatible with the type of IAC valve that's on the 2.0 intake, AND also has the wiring for a single coil pack. Maybe a 99-01 ej25 harness and ECU would work? Other than that, best bet would be to find some used COPs, or put the 2.2 heads and intake on the 2.0 block and run it with the 2.2 harness.

Nope, that's what's called "Torque Bind". It's the drivetrain binding because the front and rear wheels have to turn at different speeds, but are unable to because the AWD clutches are locked when they shouldn't be. Common problem. First check all of your tires, are all 4 the same exact size, brand and model? If not they need to be replaced with a full set of matching tires. Are all 4 tires inflated properly? Low air pressure will cause the tires to "drag" which effectively means the low tires don't spin at the same speed as the inflated ones. This causes wear of the AWD clutches. Do all 4 have similar tread depth? Subaru allows no more than 1/4" difference in circumference between tires or damage to the AWD clutches will occur. Any of these will cause accelerated wear of the AWD clutches and result in failure of the clutches to unlock properly. First step is to correct any tire issues, then change the transmission fluid 3 times. If neither of these corrects the problem then you have to replace the transfer clutches.

What is it going into? What engine is it replacing?

If its the cam seal, chances are it has alread soaked the timing belt with oil. If the leak is as large as it sounds, you shouldn't drive it at all since you will be losing so much oil. If the oil level gets too low you risk severe damage to the engine. It's also possible the leak is from the pressure galley behind the oil pump, which would mean low oil pressure for the entire engine. If thisnis the case you, again, risk serious engine damage by driving it. Best to not drive it until you've found and repaired the leak.

You'll want a jack adapter to lift and lower it with. Or some creative finnagling with a come-along and a floor jack. You can't put a jack under the pan because it will crush it and mess up stuff inside. (Wiring, solenoids, etc) so you have to have some way to lift the trans up into the car without holding it under the pan. If you have an adapter that is larger than the width of the pan it may be OK. Other than that, standard transmission replacement procedures apply. Unplug, unbolt, lower down. Raise new trans into place, bolt in, plug in, done. Since this trans also drives the front wheels you get axles to deal with as well, but those are easy. Knock out the pins and leave the axles in place until you get the trans separated from the engine. Once its separated you can slide the trans over far enough to each side to remove the axles without having to mess with strut bolts or ball joints.

Does the other side look the same? Can you upload a picture of it?

Looks like that's the only way to go. I thought the rear bearings on the FWD models were serviceable, but it appears they're pressed into the hub, then the whole hub assembly just slides onto the spindle. Rockauto has them for about $50 US, (some even cheaper) but I'm not sure how much shipping would be.

Depending on how long the boot has been split, you could reboot it for about $30 and a few hours of your time. Or if the axles is starting to make noise install a rebuilt axle from FWE for around $150.

Or just liquor. Prepare for the carpocalypse be installing this handy portable Geiger counter! http://www.geigercounters.com/Prospector.htm

Differential fluid will not affect shifting. You need to be focusing on the ATF dipstick which is on the drivers side. It's under a bunch of hoses and usually difficult to see. Check ATF level with the engine warm and running in park after shifting through all gears. The 4EAT uses Dexron III type fluid. Fill ATF through dipstick tube on the drivers side. If front diff fluid is also low top off with 80W-90 gear oil through dipstick on passenger side.

A slow enough leak from a caliper seal could boil away due to the heat of the brakes, before being visible or leaving a trail of fluid on the ground. I would start by pulling each caliper and checking the dust boots for fluid. Are any excessively dirty or damp looking? Compress each piston and if the boot doesnt collapse all the way use a needle to poke a small hole in the boot. If air comes out put a little RTV over the hole and move on to the next caliper. If brake fluid comes out thats the source of your leak. Be sure to check all 4 calipers. You don't have to disconnect any of the lines on the master cylinder just to inspect behind it. Just unbolt it from the booster and pull it out a little bit and look behind it with a flashlight. The lines are made to flex a little in that area, and there is enough flex to pull the MC out a bit.

That's either a cam seal or the valve cover. Did you not replace the cam seals when you replaced the timing belt?

You asked where its useful. This is a good feature to use when traction is limited and you do NOT want wheel spin. The engine doesn't transfer as much power to the wheels in the higher gears, which helps with preventing wheel spin in snow, grass, mud, etc.

I got one from autozone, but it came with the clutch kit I bought. I was short on time and couldn't wait for an Exedy kit to be shipped. Worked out though because the quill on my transmission was quite worn, and the sleeve seems to have helped with the clutch chatter issue I was having, though I don't notice any difference in the way the clutch feels.

10 teeth is just shy of half a revolution. Bent valves are a guarantee. The belt was probably loose because of a bad tensioner and skipped when the engine was turned off. Not uncommon for the crank to spin backwards a little when the engine stops (compression makes it spin back). If the belt is loose it will just skip rather than moving with the crank.

Depends if is a front or rear bearing that needs to be replaced. Pretty sure the rear bearing is a standard split conical roller type. The front bearing, while still a conical roller, is a press in type and you will need a press or other wheel bearing service tool kit in order to replace it.

Don't need to worry too much about wheel spin with AWD. Even if you do spin it's still going to pin you in the seat and take off. Much more important to keep boost up and keep the engine in the proper RPM range than to worry about spinning wheels.

You can not clean a MAP sensor. There is no element like a MAF sensor has. You may have a vacuum leak. When was the last tune up? Plugs, wires, filters, PCV valve?

Looks like a quality kit. Also looks like the sleeve could be removable. The ones I've seen the sleeve is a press fit and has to be cut off. Those are generally much less expensive, but if you ever have to split the trans case you have to get a new sleeve. I would try to find out the manufacturer of the release bearing they use. If the bearing is good quality I would go for it.

Yeah once that axle is out and you can free spin the bearing you see just how bad the bearing really is.