Fairtax4me

Plenty of people run naked on this board. If it were a 97 interference engine that's a different story, but on a 95 it won't hurt anything if the belt gets snagged. Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Cheap car FTW!

No real trick to bleeding the lines with ABS on these. No special tools required. I have done them by myself several times and have had no trouble getting all of the air out, though I have, occasionally, had to bleed the system twice. My method has always been to start with the wheel thats furthest away from the MC and progressively move closer. If the lines were open and the system went completely empty it will take longer to bleed the lines. Air bubbles will get trapped in the high parts of the system, such as where the lines loop out of the ABS hydraulic module. These can take a bit more effort to get flushed out to the calipers, but it is doable without any special tools. I always buy the quart sized brake fluid bottles, because that's how much I expect to use to bleed a whole system if something major (such as the MC) has been replaced. If you haven't been through almost a quart of fluid yet, you probably still have some air in the lines.

Head gaskets on the 2.2 are incredibly easy to replace, and if your Subaru mechanic is any kind of Subaru mechanic he should know how easy it really is. With it overheating that quickly I have to wonder if the thermostat is opening at all. It's also possible the heater core is plugged and is preventing flow of coolant through the bypass route which is imperative to proper cooling system operation.

You may still have air trapped in the system. Or you may just be expecting too much from an old car. The brakes on the early second gen legacy aren't great, especially with the small rotors and single piston calipers. Also, when the ABS engages in these the pedal will fall to near the floor and you will lose a substantial amount of braking power. This can feel like spongy brakes, but its just because of the way the ABS hydraulic module works. GOOD brake pads DO make a HUGE difference. Even if those pads are new, they may just be the cheapest pads the previous owner could get their hands on. And you said they had a bunch of grease on the backing plates, perhaps they got grease all over the friction material as well. It's hard to tell sometimes, and any grease that gets on the friction material will heat up and soak deeper into the pad. Try bleeding the brakes again, start by doing both rear wheels first, then move to the front wheels. If that doesn't help, install some decent ceramic pads.

If binding even with the fuse in it is a mechanic issue. The clutch plates have probably worn grooves into the output drum and are unable to unlock. Do you have VDC? Is it a 4 or 5 speed auto trans?

Did you fill the engine with coolant through the upper radiator hose before filling the radiator? Should have poured in at least 1.5 gallons. If not you need to add more. Did you install a Subaru thermostat or similar aftermarket design such as the Stant Xactstat? Only takes a minute to overheat? A minute while sitting still idling? Or a minute driving down the street? Are you sure it's overheating or does the guage just say its overheating?

FSM definition: P1133 Front A/F Sensor Heater Circuit High Input. Bosch is OE. My cars original was a Bosch. I have a 95 with original Bosch sensor. I bet if you look at yours it will say Bosch on the side too. Some may have had Denso, and I've seen Denso sensors for a bit less $$ than Bosch sensors, but it really doesn't matter as long as you get the correct type of sensor. Double check that the connector on yours matches the connector pictured for the part you plan to buy. You may need an A/F ratio sensor rather than a standard Oxygen sensor. Often the only visible difference is the shape of the connector. The alignment notches may be on different sides.

They can be. GD posted some tips in a thread about drilling the EGR ports a while back. Basically you measure the depth of the threaded section on an engine that has it already drilled. Stick a drill bit in (the size you need to make the hole) and mark it with tape. Then only drill that deep into the head you need to tap. If you have a drill bit stop that's the best way because then its not possible to drill any deeper, and the base will be cut smooth so the flare on the line will seal properly.

If you were going to turbo it, yes I'd get a higher volume fuel pump, but just to swap from a 2.2 to a 2.5 I wouldn't bother. The original pump will work just fine. Yes, the stage 1 clutch should work fine. Usually the only major difference with those is a higher clamping force, which holds up to a bit more power without slipping. There may be a difference in friction material on the disc, but generally it has the same design as a stock clutch disc. Kinda looks like a sun flower, with about 20 small pads with a small gap between them. The gap helps bring cool air between the pads to cool the disc, flywheel, and pressure plate, and allows friction material that gets shaved off to be thrown away from the friction surfaces. The stage 2 clutch is the type you want to avoid for street driving.

You might be able to find a more local driveshaft rebuilder who can replace the u joints and Carrier Bearing cheaper. I've bought used driveshafts before (u-pull-it type junkyards) and haven't had any problems, but that can be a crap-shoot.

The ones I've seen are bolted under the number 3 intake manifold runner. That may not be true for an OBD1 car, but its easy enough to check.

Pull back the boot on the slave cylinder and see if there is fluid inside it. You could also just have old fluid that was starting to boil while sitting in traffic in the heat. It's just brake fluid which absorbs water as it gets old, and that degrades the fluid and lowers its boiling point. I've always had good luck removing slave cylinders and pumping them by hand to remove air. Open the bleeder (if it has it) and allow the cylinder to fill with fluid via gravity feed or by pumping the pedal once or twice. Close the bleeder, turn the cylinder so the hose is at the top and squeeze until it bottoms out. This forces all of the fluid (and air) back into the line and up and out of the reservoir. Wait a few seconds for any air to rise out of the fluid. Repeat two or three times waiting for a few seconds between steps for air to rise to the top.

Codereader.com has several good handheld scanners which all work well with Subarus. The more expensive ones that read ABS codes will NOT read Subaru ABS system codes. Use their website to research their scanners then search the model number on Amazon and you'll find most of them for about half of the retail price. For a cheaper option, look into the Torque app for android phones. You just need a Bluetooth enabled OBD2 adapter, usually only $15 or so on eBay. As for PC software there are some options that use the cable you have, Romraider is one but I'm not sure what kind of support they have for newer models. Another is Evoscan, but again, I'm not sure of their support for your particular Subaru. You'll want to do some researching on the performance oriented Subaru forums such as RS25 and NASIOC. Google is handy for searching out any leads you may get from those. A few members here (Brus Brother for one) have used RomRaider and may be able to offer some help about that program. Regardless of the software or scanner you use, probably the best you will be able to do is scan Check Engine Light related diagnostic codes. I'm not aware of any current software that supports TCU, TCS, ABS, or SRS code scanning on Subaru vehicles except for Subaru SSMIII, which is very expensive to obtain. Reading codes for those systems is best done by the "secret handshake" methods for each system.

As long as the upgraded clutch is not a multi-puck design (the disc has several small "pucks" that look like brake pads with gaps between them) then it should be fine. Usually the only difference between OEM and a stage 1 upgrade is a higher clamping force. The multi-puck clutches are not designed for street use and make normal driving very difficult, and will wear out faster when used for street driving.

If you just had the system open you could just have too little coolant in the system. A large amount of air stuck in the system will prevent the coolant in the reservoir from being pulled back in. Open the radiator cap and let the engine run up to normal operating temp. Top off coolant level in the radiator as necessary. Be sure to open the bleeder valve on the opposite side of the radiator if it has it.

In this case I think you should match the flywheel and clutch to the engine. The release mechanism type is the same for both engines, the input shaft size and spline count are the same for both, but the 251 clutch may have a stronger clamping force, which will help with longevity of the clutch. There are also some flywheels that have a step machined into the face that may make a different clutch not grip properly. As for lightweight vs stock, the lightweight flywheel is going to cause shuddering issues when releasing the clutch. Part of the flywheels job is to maintain rotational momentum of the crankshaft during clutch engagement, which helps keep the engine running. If you take away some of that mass, you take away momentum. The engine will be more likely to stall during engagement of the clutch. You will have to slip the clutch more, and use more throttle to prevent that, which will cause the clutch to wear faster. It will also lead to hot spotting on the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces, which will cause shuddering when engaging the clutch.

Baja, Outback, and GT model manual trans had 4.11. L and base model manuals had 3.9.

Even with a small leak the system should still pull most of the coolant back in when it cools. The hose going into the overflow must reach to about 1/2" from the bottom of the bottle, if its cracked or cut just a few inches into the bottle it can't suck up any coolant below that point.

Inside air temp gauge! No, I'd probably go with the vacuum gauge. Much more versatile than any other gauge you can put there.

Might try checking fuses in the under hood box too. If you really need to run a compressors that draws so much, use a dedicated 20 amp fuse line straight off of the battery rather than using the accessory outlets in the car. Those are hardly suited to deliver even the 15A they're supposedly rated for. I don't rember it being all that difficult to get to the lighters on the 00-04 models. Pretty similar to the 95-99 IIRC. The console cover around the ebrake pops out, then the cover around the shifter. Pull the ash tray and there are two small screws that go up into the dash, easily removed with a stubby screwdriver. Then there may be two screws at the top of the radio bezel. The bezel will pull out and the wiring for the 12v socket should be accessible, and you can check for power and ground to the socket.

X2, Sounds like a post MAF air leak. An air leak would cause a low reading from the MAF, which would propmt the ECU to lean out the mixture to obtain proper A/F ratio. Did you check the valve cover breather hoses where they attach to the intake tube? How about the one that goes to the PCV Y fitting? Is the large hose that goes down to the fitting on the block fitted properly?

Transmission or center differential is toast. AWD cars can't be towed with two wheels on the ground and two on a trailer. 1 mile is enough to destroy bearings and chew up the clutches in the trans.

Took a look at the MC on my car today (96 Legacy L, MT, ABS, Hill holder) Appearance wise the MC is different. Mine has the castings for lines on the bottom of the MC, but none of them are drilled out, no lines attach to the lower castings. There are only two lines coming out of the MC, straight off the side same as the one in your picture.

Yes it works very well for low clearance seals. I bought it to use on my mothers 98 Camry 4 cyl that needed cam and crank seals. There was only about 3" of room between the cam seal and motor mount bracket on the strut tower, which made using a regular seal puller impossible. It also used close for seals, which don't leave much room between the shaft and metal seal housing for a prying tool such as a screwdriver or pick. I did not want to risk gouging the camshaft, so went in search and found the Lisle tool, which works very well.

Sometimes you actually need a hub puller to push the axle out with, but most of the time a couple good hits with a hammer will pop it loose so you can slide it out of the hub.