Fairtax4me

Does it sound like this?

Are you sure you used the correct marks? One tooth off it should still run, but it sounds like you might be way off. Did you remove the camshaft sprockets to replace the oil seals?

For an EA car, you're going to notice a huge increase in power just with an EJ22. A 90-96 ej22 you can continue to run naked. Any EJ25 you will need to run covers because of the interference design of the block. Franken motor offers about 30 more HP, but you pretty much have to use premium fuel or it will ping.

I'd check it with plasti-gauge before going any further. Buy the next size under bearing if needed. Machining the block is going the opposite direction.

On a turbo, extreme amounts of detonation/pinging. The ECU would be working overtime pulling back timing and boost to keep the engine from destroying itself. Pinging leads to cracked ring lands, cracked spark plugs... most extreme would be the eventual hole through the piston because of pre-ignition, or rod through the block after the piston shatters from very heavy detonation. I would check out the throttle body and clean the plate and bore if needed. I'd also check out the idle control solenoid.

Knowing how some dealers repair head gaskets, I wouldn't be surprised if that's the cause. But it could just be due to low coolant.

The port in the intake manifold may still be partially clogged. That's a PITA to clean though.

Turbo went bad because of infrequent oil changes? I see a picture of an engine full of sludge and an intake full of carbon deposits. :/

Head gaskets come one to a pack. So that's $ 23.99 each. You DO NOT need new head bolts. Subaru head bolts are not stretch type. Don't let the parts person talk you into buying them. You will want new intake manifold gaskets, usually exhaust manifold gaskets can be re-used. Single port exhaust gaskets are hard to come by in parts stores. They're $8-10 each at a dealer.

I would go with the poor contacts in the motor theory. You could try just unplugging the connector on the motor and see if the pins are corroded. If they are clean them up and see if it makes a difference.

Starts fine, runs fine, bad mileage, probably a bad front O2 sensor. If you put in copper plugs last time they could probably stand to be replaced by now, but I've never had spark plugs make a huge difference in fuel mileage unless they were causing misfires.

A dead misfire could cause stalling as the engine idles down. Gotta wonder if cylinder 4 is the only misfire. Any idea how many miles are on the car?

Ive looked into it before. Knowing the typical lifespan of aftermarket cables and their tendency to corrode, yes I would buy the cables from the dealer.

I used to do this as well, until recently. Di-electric grease is silicone based, which when introduced to the fuel system can cause silicone fouling of the O2 sensor. Silicone fouling doesn't typically burn off very easily. It usually means you have to replace the sensor. Silicone is also not good for fuel lines since they're designed to be resistant to petroleum. And typically hoses made for petroleum exposure tend to deteriorate when exposed to silicone. Petroleum jelly works the best.

Sounds like the throttle wouldnt respond probably because the engine stalled. Check the battery cables and grounds on the engine and chassis. Possible the terminals in the diagnostic connector are dirty or loose causing connection issues. Could be a poor connection at the ECU as well.

The price difference is because the dealer cable is the harness that includes both positive AND negative cables, of the exact length and diameter specified by Subaru. With the exact terminals you need at each end. It's wrapped in wire loom, taped, and even has the clips that secure it in the proper places. Number 3 here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_7/electronic/battery_equipment/

Yeah that's a single row bearing probably for one of the transfer shafts. Probably why it was only $27. The mainshaft bearing is usually about $60.

Have you tried calling a locksmith?

Check the air intake tubing and filter box for proper fit and connection. Also make sure the water separator in the fender is still there.

V-powers take my vote. You'll get about 40k out of them before the electrodes get too worn. Then you can re-gap them and keep on trucking, or replace them for $10 again. What are Iridiums, $10 each? $40 and they'll last 60k maybe 80k miles.

I have one of those 6 sided piston tools. All the times I've done brakes I have never found a piston that it actually fits. It's usually close, but I've rented the big brake piston set from advance more time than I've actually used that $6 tool. :-P

No difference in springs between legacy and Outback, just taller struts. You can swap in any Legacy struts from 95-99, Impreza struts from 93-07. They all fit the same. WRX or STI struts will be shorter than standard Impreza struts, and will have stiffer springs. You may want to remove the cross member spacers for ground clearance under the oil pan, but its not totally necessary.

I thought maybe it would start shooting fire balls and lightning when the music started!

Nifty. I've always just used a wrench bolted to the bellhousing to hold torque converters in. I like that trans jack though. I have an adapter that sits on my floor jack but its so tall I never use it. With a transmission sitting directly on the jack head I can roll it out from under the car. With the jack adapter I would need the car another 6" higher off the ground to do that. The jack doesn't lift high enough to do that.

Belt needs to be tight all the way around before installing the tensioner, and the only slack should be between the upper left (drivers side) sprocket and the crank sprocket. Remove the belt and reset.