Fairtax4me

The small one with the black plug is the revolution sensor. The larger sensor wih the green plug is probably a thermo-switch, as presslab said. I don't know that either of those sensors is available as a replacement part.

Typo on my part. Should be X. W is 1998. I edited the previous post with the right letter.

Glad to hear you got your car back. Sucks about the tools though. Keep a watch out on Craigslist. Those fudgers will get what's coming to them.

Body damage, rust, and torque bind? Timing parts at that mileage should be a given no matter the service history unless it was just done and the seller has receipts. I wouldn't budge an inch over $500, I'd even go for cheaper than that.

Like Ivan said, check the input shaft (main shaft) for play. There may be a small amount, but if there is too much it means the mainshaft ball bearing is worn. Also possible the seal just went bad. In which case, its about $10 from a dealer and takes an hour or two to replace. Most of that is cleaning the case halves before reassembly.

I would ************ my pants if the oil pressure light stayed on after I changed the oil in my car. Will have to keep this in mind if I ever work on a new Outback.

The dowel pins like to rust/corrode and stick. Prybars and screwdrivers required. It'll come apart you just have to persuade it a bit. Clean the dowel pins really well with a wire brush and coat them with anti-seize before putting it back together.

You've already bled the lines? If you're good you can bench the MC and after you hook up the lines push the pistons in on the calipers, this pushes the air out of the top of the lines into the MC. Do it right and all the air will be pushed up and out into the reservoir.

Check the VIN etching on the bell housing. Tenth digit should be a X for 1999. This would tell you the model year of the vehicle the engine came from, if it is not original to the car.

Coolant level is too low. Fill the radiator as much as you can, and fill the overflow to about halfway up the bottle. Check for leaks before and after driving, and check the coolant level EVERY morning before starting the engine. If you have a very slow leak it can take weeks or months for the level to go down noticably. If the level drops quickly you may have a more serious leak or possibly bad head gasket. Keep a close eye on the coolant level and make sure it's always topped off to avoid overheating and potentially causing head gasket problems.

Friend of mine had the same problem in her Forester. No sound at all from the stock radio. But it would come and go. Just depended on what mood the head unit was in that day. Something internal went bad, dunno exactly what, replaced it with an aftermarket cd unit and no problems after that.

Gotta go with clutch slave cylinder on this one. Seals in it are more likely to go bad because of the heat, and any water that gets in the fluid (natural for brake fluid, even in a closed system) will eventually settle in the lowest part of the system which is the slave cylinder. Water causes rust, rust eats the seal on the piston.

I don't know that Exedy makes brake master cylinders. And no the part in that listing will not work. That listing is for a CLUTCH master cylinder. Same principle different part, not interchangeable. I have never had trouble with parts store rebuilt MCs but I can't say how long they'll last. I think I've bought maybe two ever and I didn't keep the cars long after. I've had good luck with used MCs though.

There should be a way to retrieve the codes stored in the abs control module. The codes will tell you which component or circuit needs repair. If the impact involved any of the wheels a speed sensor or wiring could have been damaged.

The bearing on the AC belt tensioner pulley tends to go bad on these. Remove the alternator belt, start the engine and see if the noise is still there. Then remove the AC belt and check again.

The water pump leak could just be the bypass hose or the thermostat housing. I'd try to confirm the source of the coolant leak and address that first. The separator plate leak can be put aside for a little while just keep an eye on the oil level. If you find the water pump is leaking replace the front cam seals and put a timing kit on it when you replace the pump. Good kit on eBay: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=260925109309&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=42621810424 Comes with cam and crank seals. Aisin water pumps are OE for many Japanese cars.

I may swap the manifold just for giggles sometime. I'd really like to know the actual cause though. If I move everything with the manifold it's harder to know just what's faulty. After riding around for about a week now with my false knock sensor plugged in I have noticed a small increase in power overall, and an occasional ping here and there, but I still get periods of random power loss. Since I can't seem to make the problem happen on a consistent basis I'm just going to swap out one part at a time and drive a week in between to see if there is any noticeable difference. If I stick to that schedule, I should have every sensor/electrical part changed out by about March. :-p

The California sensor has a shorter wire harness I think because it was placed further forward on the exhaust. Other than that I don't think the sensor itself is any different. Does the listing give the length of the pigtail? I saw the cheap prices of the off brand sensors on rockauto and am tempted to try one, but just to save $5 or $10 it might not be worth the hassle to have it fail in a year (if it even lasts more than a day) and have to replace it again. One other thing to check is the shape of the connector. There are slots on the sides and/or top that keep the wrong sensor from being plugged into the harness. You might also just check the wiring going to the sensor for damage before replacing it. A heater malfunction isn't an uncommon problem but there could be other reasons for the code, such as damaged wiring.

Pull the engine and do a reseal. $225-250 you can do timing belt, all idlers, water pump, all the cam seals and o rings, front crank seal, oil pump reseal and o ring, separator (baffle) plate reseal/update with new steel plate if needed, and valve cover gaskets. Don't forget the $2 o-ring under the rear wrist pin access cover. (It's the diamond shaped cover left of the rear main seal) Step by step picture write-ups for all of the above can be found at The Beer Garage: http://beergarage.com

Like Ed said. Ej25s weren't around in 95. They were still on the drawing board. Didn't hit the scene til 96 and they were only in the Legacy. 98 Impreza Outback Sport wagon would have an interference SOHC EJ22. Legacy Outback wagon would be the major interference DOHC EJ25D.

Like press said, each winding (wire) is basically a circuit all it's own. The copper winding is coated with an insulator so the electricity flows all the way through the length of the wire rather than jumping straight across to the closest exit point. If its a brushed motor the open or shorted windings will create a dead phase. You'll get no "push" no magnetism from that winding. As the motor turns around you basically end up with the equivalent of a misfire to a gas engine. It causes the rest of the motor to work harder and creates more heat. There's also the possibility of the broken strands breaking loose and shorting against the case while the motor is turning. Do you like fireworks? I'd see if there is a motor place nearby that can rewind it or source a new armature. If its an induction motor (3 phase?) I'd just solder the broken ones together. The affect depends on the number of turns and just how any windings are in each coil. Probably wont notice too much difference but it would be wise to monitor the temperature of the motor and the "repaired" coil for a while just to make sure it isn't going to overheat. (Could catch fire or burn out the solder)

95 model year Legacy was OBD2. 90-96 Ej22 is non-interference.

P0420 catalyst efficiency below threshold. P0440 evap emissions system. You got the wrong codes. Your definitions are for codes P1400 and P1420. The pressure control solenoid valve is located above the charcoal canister behind the right rear wheel. All of the metal parts back there are prone to rusting. I don't envy you having to remove the canister to get to that valve. I'd expect some corrosion in the wiring or inside the connector. Good possibility of mouse damage too.

Woah, woah..... Woah! 1. Check the drain plug first. Is it tight? 2. If it is the front seal, pull the trans and replace the seal. It's not that hard. All you need is a floor jack and jack stands. 3. I dont see how putting sealer around the input shaft would work. You can't get to the seal to apply sealer without splitting the case. Not to mention the oil drips from the weep hole in the case at the lowest point of the seal housing. If you seal over the weep hole the oil will eventually fill up the housing and start pouring out onto the pressure plate, which will then ruin the clutch disc. So you spend 4 hours removing and reinstalling the trans to get what? A few thousand miles maybe, if youre lucky, without a leak, then you have to replace the clutch, when it only takes another hour, maybe two, to split the case and put a new seal in. Search for Gloyale's easy transmission front seal replacement thread.

Welcome back! Name sure seems familiar. I think I've seen it pop up in search results once or twice. Where are you in VA?