Fairtax4me

My guess would be someone replaced the rear sensor and stripped the threads out of the bung. Probably cross threaded the new sensor or the threads pulled got chewed out by the old one. What better way to fix it than with a welder right? I would just cut the whole deal off and weld on a new bung. A competent exhaust shop should be able to do this for no more than a half hour or so labor, plus a few $ for the new bung, which they should also have.

That's not how fuses work. Fuses limit current (amperage) by burning out. Check the fuse for the fan. If its blown, it's probably because the fan was pulling too many amps, which means its not any better off than the old squeaky one.

Year model engine transmission. A CEL means the ECU is detecting a fault with the emissions control systems of the car. It turns on the light to let you know it needs to be fixed because the problem is increasing the harmful emissions output of the engine. Knowing the important info above will help determine how to retrieve the fault codes which will in turn determine the necessary repairs.

What kind of noisy? Auto or manual trans? Have you checked fluid level? Best way to extend gear life is with more frequent oil changes.

The important parts will all swap over with the intake manifold. Put the 97 manifold on the 92 engine, move the harness with it. The only other sensor I can think of that you might have to swap is the temp sensor. You will need the dual port Y pipe though. EGR shouldn't be that hard to trick. EGR has been a hot topic lately and there was a great idea in one thread to just run a hose from the EGR port on the manifold over to the intake box. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1152600&postcount=10 Otherwise, GD has detailed instructions on how to drill out the port in the head.

You have 2" square tube? Cut some and make drop spacers for the cross members to match the strut spacers. Cross members, transverse arm bushings, trailing arm brackets, diff carrier, and the center driveshaft support. Drill holes buy some bolts and you can drop the whole suspension 2". You could just pop a set of legacy outback struts on it. You can do those with no other mods and get a solid inch. Then you can fit slightly larger tires to get another 1/2" or so. With no cross member drop I would do about 1.5" spacers at most on the struts. You want to make them tall enough that you don't need to knock the old studs out of the strut mounts. To get the studs out the mounts have to come off, which just adds time and extra work to the project.

Never stopped mine. Been a few years since we had really good snow here, and I'm sure the Soob would do better now than it did then, but I couldn't believe that a car could push 20" of snow on worn out all seasons. Land rovers jeeps and 4wd trucks couldn't touch it.

I wanna say a set of plugs and wires would fix it right up. I think I'd check the spark plugs for fouling, and make sure no oil is getting in the plug wells. Spark plug wire resistance can be checked. The FSM should have the specs in it.

I've re-used valve cover gaskets plenty of times. As long as they're still pliable they're usually fine. Just make sure both sealing surfaces are clean.

Why do you need a steering pump? If its just leaking these pumps are very easy to rebuild and seal kits are only about $40 from Subaru last time I checked. A new front bearing you can get at Napa for under $10. Rebuilding only requires basic hand tools a block of wood and a vice.

Block, kind of a toss-up. Biggest problem with the block is the rod bearings are easily damaged by overheating. Supposedly the 99 block is a phase 2 block that has larger rod bearings and should be more resistant to damage. Did you already drain the oil? Check it for shiny flakes. If an engine gets overheated too badly the rear timing covers will deform. They end up with a melty/wavy look near where they bolt to the heads. How do the cylinder walls look? Can you still see the cross hatching?

The ad has like 5 pictures of the block all taken from the same angle. Also don't think 3 weeks is enough time to determine if a rebuild is any good. After the inital oil change (which should be like 1000 miles) drive another 1000-1500 miles and take an oil sample to send to in for analysis and check compression and leak down. Do the same again in one year if its still running. I will give props on cleanliness of the parts though. As long as the insides are that clean when it's put together it at least shouldn't die of dirt/particulate damage.

95-99 alternators had a recall so Subaru sells reman units for about $75. You could put one of these in your car but you need to swap the wire harness connector to match. I suppose you could also just use spade terminals, but it won't be waterproof. Check resistance on the lead that goes from the alternator to the fuse panel just to make sure it's not all corroded inside. Should be little or no resistance. Also worth checking voltage at the alternator output with the engine running.

Heads are generally re-usable with little work. Clean them and check for cracks in the combustion chamber. Make sure the valves close all the way. Put it back on. If desired, now is a good time to replace valve stem seals.

Have the wheels balanced. Most common cause of vibration at speed is out of balance tires.

Did you remove the fuses to test them? If not how did you test them? Resistance? Test light? Neither will tell you if this fuse is blown. Resistance can be checked only by removing the fuse. Fuses good and the bulb works, check circuit operation as Gloyale said, ground the small white/red wire with the key On.

Steam cleaned! That one clean piston is evidence enough, but the others look like they were starting to seep coolant as well. Valves tend to take the same coloring as the spark plugs, a little white means that cylinder is lean. Properly running the valves will be grey but not heavily deposited, and the combustion chamber may have black/brown coloring. Lots of black crud could mean a rich mixture, and/or too many short trips. Basically the black carbon crud will burn off when the engine gets up to operating temp and stays there on a regular basis. A thin layer of carbon will build up on the piston crowns and will stay there unless the engine overheats, or a head gasket goes bad, in which case the carbon gets steamed off. It will start off in small spots, usually closest to the source of the leak. Here's a good comparison. Left side was leaking coolant. You can see a small notch in the bottom left side of the fire ring. Right side is normal.

If you jack up the rear of the car you should only get a few drops. If you use a clean pan you can filter any that drains out and put it back.

If you mix block test liquid with antifreeze it won't work. Probably don't need to bother at this point. Sounds to me like the head gaskets are cooked.

They must have drilled a different spot in the head or something. Take a picture of where the small bracket lines up and post it.

ECU came from a 97 L. Same problem was occurring with the old ECU.

There is a restrictor port in the booster hose something like midway. It's inside the hose, just looks like a little bulge in the hose about 1/2" long. Id have to go with a bad master cylinder if you're sure you got all the air out of the lines. Brake fluid collects water, any moisture that might have got in the system while it was sitting for that long could have certainly caused the master to rust which would chew up the seals inside it.

It's possible the 93 heads were not cast for EGR ports. Subaru didnt use EGR in the EJ engines until 95. You could either swap heads, or do like Gary said, tap off the exhaust header. The flexible copper tube you can get at any hardware store should work, and will be easy to flare. I bought some at Lowes a few weeks ago 5 foot roll for about $5.

Does the car have ABS? Some ABS systems have to be bled a certain way or you'll have air in the ABS unit that can cause a spongy pedal condition. The are specs for testing the booster in the FSM I think. Basically check the amount of vacuum at the booster by putting a T adapter in the hose past the check valve. It should be the same as at the engine. Turn the engine off and vacuum should stay the same. If vacuum decreases the booster or check valve could be leaking. With the engine running pump the pedal a few times then release. Turn the engine off. Push the pedal hard down and fully release at least 4 times until the pedal doesn't sink anymore, then hold. While still holding start the engine, the pedal should sink about 1-2". Pretty sure the spec for these cars is in the FSM. If it passes that test, and is getting the proper source vacuum and holding it after the engine is turned off, the booster is good.

A little more detail about the timing differences I'm seeing on the scanner. When its being insolent timing is usually in the 12-18 degree range while trying to accelerate from about 2000 rpm. As rpms increase timing stays in about the same range, but it will sometimes jump around. Then when engine speed gets to about 3000-3500 rpm it will suddenly jump up to the 30-35 degree range and the car takes off. This happens under "normal" acceleration, and engine load is only in the 20-30% range, or only slightly more. If I put the pedal down hard load will increase into the 35-45% range, and this is when I saw the very low timing mentioned before, but it was at 2000 rpm. When its acting normal timing doesn't usually go lower than 20 degrees unless RPMs are very low, like under 1500. Then it may be down around 12-15 degrees, but it rises steadily with the increase in RPM and doesn't jump around any. I've seen it as high as about 40 degrees when accelerating very lightly. With normal acceleration it'll be around 20-25 degrees and increases steadily as rpm increases.