Fairtax4me

Well the first thing I would do is put some bushings on the linkage and see if that helps with the popping out of gear. Make sure the trans mount is in good shape as well. If it doesn't help it's tear down time. Likely the mainshaft bearing is worn out. Check the bustedfingermotorsports.com forums for service manual downloads. I don't have the link to their download page but I know they have Legacy and Impreza FSMs. The trans is the same other than a few gear ratios, so you could also use a Legacy FSM from here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ For the transmission section. Also you can search here for Gloyales thread on how to separate the case to get to the guts. I just did a rear bearing replacement and can offer a few tips if you need any help.

The air filter? :-p If you're (un)lucky you have ABS and that's the ABS pump module. There could also be a charcoal canister for the evap emissions system there. And the horn.

Burning metal? Could be burning clutch on the compressor when it's engaged. Large cylinder to the drivers side of the alternator is the AC compressor. Has to big aluminum lines bolted to the top. The pulley is composed of an idler (the belt rides on this) and a hub and clutch assembly that turns the compressor shaft. The outer section of the hub (the clutch) is pulled against the idler when a magnetic coil is energized. If the compressor is seized you will not be able to turn the inner hub of the pulley by hand, or it may feel notchy. Be sure the engine is off when you try this. The hub is the section on the front with the triangle. Put your hand on it and try to turn it. Should be easy, with an even feel of drag the whole way around. If it's very hard to turn, or doesn't turn at all it's likely the compressor is damaged internally. The smell could also be something strange in the heater core, or the blower motor is burning out.

I've used Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage for years in several of my cars. After the first 3000 miles the oil drains out black as coal. Then over several changes it lightens to more of a molasses color. I've never had completely black oil after three oil changes with Maxlife. I've heard that it also helps to quiet down piston slap in the 2.5 engines. I have a friend with a 99 Ej25 and I'm trying to convince her to change over to Maxlife so I can see if it makes a difference.

Mix a half quart of ATF with the rest clean engine oil and the lubricating properties are practically the same. The detergents in the ATF are strong enough that you don't need much to clean a crank case. The principal is the same whether using seafoam ATF or MMO. Mix too muh of the solvent in with the oil and it's effects can be detrimental. A good alternative to bottled additives is to buy motor oils labeled as a "High Mileage" mix. They contain added detergents for cleaning the crankcase, and conditioners for oil seals.

First and foremost, You need a new shop. If they can't diagnose a simple misfire, they aren't worth their weight in salt. When was the last time it got a tune up? Spake plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, PCV valve?

Don't even have to do all that. Ej22 takes 30 minutes to do both sides with a 1/4" drive ratchet and small 10mm socket. A 10mm wrench may be needed for the rear bolt on the drivers side. Pull the breather hoses off the valve covers. Remove the whole intake tube, breather hoses, MAF and filter box top as one section. Pull the spark plug wires off of the plugs and flop them up on top of the intake out of the way. Remove the rear bolts entirely before loosening the others. Once you get a few turns with the ratchet/wrench they will thread out easily by hand, then loosen and remove the middle and front bolts. The drivers side valve cover has a nifty built in handle to lift it out with. Passenger side is easy enough to just grab with your hand. Clean the gasket surfaces really well with a rag or brush and brake cleaner. Slip the new gasket into the groove and slide the cover back on the engine.

I've seen worse. That's mostly from poor ventilation and missed oil changes/longer drain intervals. Blame it on the PO. Change the oil every 3000 miles like you're supposed to and that buildup will actually dissolve and wash away.

Only difference is the plug, (1 pin vs 2 pin, even though only one pin is used) which can be swapped from one sensor to the other if needed. The sensor is the same otherwise.

See that little diamond plate on the left side of the rear main? That's leaking worse than the rear main. You GET that $2 O-ring that goes under that plate from the dealer and replace it. Part number is 806931070. You'll regret it if you dont. Didn't see the cam cap O-rings in your list either. And since you'll have the pan off, get a pickup tube O-ring.

An input from the starter circuit when the key is turned to the start position, and tachometer signal. It doesn't NEED the start signal input, it just changes a few things (timing,IAC position, fuel input).

The pressure sensor is used to determine when there is a leak in the evap emissions system. I'm not aware of any inertia switch on these cars. If there were one, it would likely cause the car to not start at all until the switch were reset.

I was on my phone when I posted earlier and couldn't see that the fitting has a hex on it. Thought it was just round. I would guess that fitting just threads into the cooler assembly inside the end cap and there is a separate seal (O-ring) between the cooler and end cap to hold back the antifreeze. I don't think any amount of tightening on that fitting will help a leak of that nature. I suggested the JB because it could possibly work as a temporary fix if you needed time to order a radiator or didn't have the time/money to replace it right away, although it does take twice as long if you have to remove the radiator twice. (once to "repair" the leak, and again to replace it 2 weeks later).

99 has issues with the Idle air control valve. They often go bad and will cause rough idle and stalling problems, and often do not set a code. No CEL? Does the CEL work when the key is turned to ON? Checked for broken vacuum hoses or loose/ broken breather/ PCV hoses? Checked that the air box behind the throttle body is assembled properly and clamped tightly to the TB? It hinges at the bottom and can be difficult to reassemble if taken apart, it's often spit open a bit at the bottom which can cause problems. Intake hose clamped tightly at each end? Intake hose isn't broken anywhere? How old is the fuel filter? How old is the air filter? Is it full of acorns?

I don't mind paying a little extra to have an extra cut done if it really needs it, this case was just so minimal. If I had known the step was so small I would have said to just make it flat. He also charged me $10 to pull the alignment pins out. Which I was fine with because the last time I tried to get one of those pins out (on my truck) I mangled the hell out of it. Had to go buy a new one, cost me $8 plus gas going back and forth from the Ford dealer twice. :-p

That pivot ball is pretty easy to clean. Just pull the snap/lock ring out and pull the shifter up it should pop right out. A good wipe down and new silicone grease should have it working like new. You can check the reverse checker for operation by removing the linkage rod from the selector on the transmission. Try to twist the selector arm towards the passenger side (movements at the selector to pick a gear are the same as they are at the shifter). If it is difficult to turn the reverse checker is working. It should spring back to the center position as soon as it is released. If it freely flops between the center and 5/R positions there is a problem with the checker mechanism or the arm on the selector shaft inside the trans.

Well at least now it should last until the rest of the car rusts away. :-p And now you're an expert at removing a Subaru transmission!

Could try JB Weld.

That's why I said it might as well not be there! Cost me an extra $10 to have the step cut too!

Yep, this is a well discussed topic. Multiple threads covering this idear in the Old Gen forum.

One other thing you could check is make sure the ignition coil is wired to the igniter module properly. You have the FSM for 97? I'd start with the ignition module and fuel injectors and make SURE the wires from them are going back to the correct pins on the ECU. A simple continuity check should determine that, and you can check for shorts by checking continuity across circuits. Follow those up with the other various sensors. (perhaps the crank and cam sensor wires got mixed up?) I've never done a swap of this nature, so I really have no clue where something might have gone wrong, except for maybe while cutting up the wire harness. If all else fails, you might try to enlist GD's expertise. I'm pretty sure he's done a few of these swaps. I think I've seen him offer to cut up harnesses for swaps before, so I'm pretty darn sure he knows what he's doing. If he doesn't know, (what he's doing that is) he deserves an Emmy.

Usually if one side is affected it's jumped timing. That should show up in a compression test. I've heard of the H6 engines having some issues with timing chain guides, but mostly at high (200k + ) mileage. Are there any other codes besides the codes for misfires? Anything at all? edit: I didn't read the whole post first. Could be a sensor issue, plugged cats, even a bad intake gasket. Did the mechanic do a compression test?

The reverse checker mechanism pulls the shifter back to center from the 5/R positions. I'm not sure if that is servicable with the transmission in the car. More than likely you have to remove the tail housing to disassemble the check mechanism. There is a rod that is bolted to the shift selector arm inside the extension housing that engages the reverse checker. If the bolt has come loose the rod will hang loose on the selector shaft and will slide out of the checker. The bolt on the rod is accessed through the top plate on the extension housing. Look up Gloyales thread about front seal replacement, there are some pics in there I think.

What year 2.2? Phase 1 2.2 gaskets felpro makes, it's the same part you would get at a dealer. Autozone carries them for 19.99 each.

Ether. And yes it's EXTREMELY flammable. (pretty sure it says that on the can, but who really takes those warnings seriously?!?! ) You do NOT want spray it constantly, put a few shots in the intake, set the can off to the side then crank it over. Sorry you had to learn that the hard way. So we are now down to two things. Spark timing is off, or we have a couple intake valves open when they're not supposed to be. Mechanically, this would mean bent valves or improper cam timing, which will show up on a compression test. All different electronics because of the OBD1 - OBD2 switch seem like a good place to start putting some blame. Just for clarification, NOTHING concerning the timing belt was changed/removed during the switch-over to OBD2 correct?