Fairtax4me

You can replace them without removing he heads by using the old Rope trick, or compressed air fed into the cylinder at TDC. Pop the springs off and the seals can be easily pulled off and replaced.

More MAP sensor fun today. I hooked up the Scanner and had a constant steady reading of 0"hg. Drove all around looking for SOME minuscule change and got nothing. Connected the vacuum line straight to the sensor (bypassed the PSSS). Same 0 reading. Swapped MAP sensor with another one, then another one, same thing. So then I went chasing after broken wires poor grounds and low voltage from the ECU, none of which I found. It was hot so I gave up. Might have a go at checking voltage and signal while I wiggle the wire harness on the ECU tomorrow morning before it hits 90. Posed to have 100+ heat index tomorrow so if it doesn't happen before 10 it wont happen at all. :Flame: I have 5.1V reference at the sensor. Approx. 0.9 V on pin 2 at idle, but it doesn't change with RPM increase. I looked for a while but couldn't find any info on sensor output compared to vacuum.

This is the difference between leaking Intake valve seals and Exhaust valve seals. Intake seals tend to cause smoke under high vacuum conditions (such as engine braking down a hill), Exhaust stem seals tend to cause a small amount of smoke a startup then will go away for the most part. You'll figure out which seals are the cause if it starts fouling spark plugs... eventually.

Never heard of Tailor. BWD is a common brand for american car parts. Mostly electric parts sensors, switches, solenoids, that kinda thing. Niehoff specializes in ignition parts and may just be a subsidary? of BWD.

G Wagon doing what it was made for Here's an extended wheelbase version And a 2 door version Gotta love the plaid interior One of my long-time favorite cars. The 10.4 sec 132mph turbocharged super-sleeper Plymouth Reliant "Relentless". Vs a Supra Turbo. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yT6tPsMfjI http://thedodgegarage.com/

$300 is insane to just look at the timing belt. Good call pushing on to the next place. A compression check and/or leakdown test will confirm bent valves if that is the problem. I'm not convinced that's the problem. Sounds more like the timing is off. Being just one tooth off can cause all sorts of gremlins but the engine can still run well enough that you may not notice.

Post the exact code and we can help more.

All these muscle car pics and no Torino?!?! Gotta fix that right now!

Well that explains it! You did it out of order! It's supposed to be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. :-p 3..1..6 5..2..4 [/sarcasm] In all seriousness, that is the order according to the FSM. I'd still love to blame air in the system, or a faulty thermostat. Speaking of, have you tried running it without the thermostat? Can't hurt. 20-30 minutes for gits and shiggles right?

From what I've seen broken springs are fairly typical on higher mileage clutches. Just metal fatigue I guess. When they have different sized springs the shorter (lengthwise) ones always seem to break first. Puts added stress on the other springs, they wear out. I've seen the longer springs with 1/8" between the spring and the hub at each end. With enough wear, and bouncing around between shifting and on/off throttle, I can easily see how one could fall out. Excessive heating of the pressure plate causes the spring plate to lose tension. That combined with glazing of the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces (also caused by excessive heat) is usually what causes slipping. The glazed surface can be worn away with time, but it takes much longer because it is harder and smoother than the unglazed (un-heat-treated) metal. Brakes work the same way. Glaze the rotors, and you can't stop anymore. You get the most consistent wear from both the pads and rotors when they aren't heated to an excessive degree. Keep the heat out and the clutch will last until the rivets wear into the flywheel. What you have there is a well worn friction surface, and minimal glazing of the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces. Your flywheel wear is typical, just as a brake rotor wears with use. That's about the best I can 'splain it.

Classic low RPM Misfire. Plugs and wires would likely do it some good. NGK or Subaru OE wires ONLY. Cheap out on plug wires and you'll be jumping out of the pan and into the fire, so to speak. Buy the plugs that are recommended in the Owners manual or emission sicker under the hood if it says. (some say which plugs the engine is supposed to have some don't) These can be a little jumpy, but that's a slow onset symptom. It sounds as if it was doing fine one day then started doing this the next?

It means nothing now, but I was kinda thinking that yesterday. I figured you would figure it out. :-p New plug wires can be difficult to "click" onto the plugs. Double check them all if you haven't already.

Just grab a few fan relays from a junkyard car. I think they use 30 amp slow blow fuses in the fuse panel. Grab some of those too and to can hook them to spade connectors.

Look here: http://repair-manuals.blogspot.com/2011/06/subaru-legacy-1996-repair-manual.html FSM will tell all.

The starter relay is on the starter. Other than that... Ignition switch.

OBD1 you don't need a code reader. You connect two plugs under the dash and turn the key On. The CEL will flash the codes. Youtube How To:

They checked the front, how about the rear? Auto trans? Anything different if you put the FWD fuse in? Does it change if you downshift into 3rd?

You mean I actually have to fix it now?!?! Sawdust and duct tape fixed it right up, she's nice and quiet now... For now... [/sarcasm] This ones going to the scrap yard, there and big gouges in several of the gears, 3rd synchro ring is ground to a pulp. Diff looks ok, but with all the chunks floating around in there it's not worth the risk/trouble of keeping. I will be hammering the bearing off to keep as a memento though!

I'm missing something here... How does it work? Air, electric, or centrifugal? Also, since this is designed for the rear differential, how difficult would it be to modify/fit it in a front differential? I don't know how much different there is in the carriers, but front and rear lockers would make one of these cars completely unstoppable!

Ok. Assuming no fuel. Check all fuses first. The pump is easy to access via a plate in the floor behind the passenger rear seat, though you may have to go in from the trunk if your seats don't fold down. You can check the connector there for 12V with the key On. The two larger wires are the power and ground for the pump.

They will but you have to recognize the sounds and realize there is a problem when it starts kicking out of 4th and 5th gear. This one was driven after 4th and 5th were no longer able to even be engaged. PO was driving around holding the shifter just to keep it in 3rd.

I've been meaning to take apart this transmission for 6 months to see just how worn the mainshaft bearing really was. It's even worse than I thought. It's never good if this is what greets you when you open it up. Video so you can see the signs. This was sitting in the bottom of the main case. Part of a synchro hub? Then we got to the fun stuff. All the ball bearings pretty much just fell out. One fell out and rolled down the driveway into the grass somewhere. I found it later, so it's not in this pic. The score marks on the plate are from the 5th drive gear rubbing on it. And here you can see the extreme wear on the inner race.

Like everyone said, just get a whole kit, idlers, water pump, oil seals. Nifty picture guide here: http://beergarage.com/Subaru.aspx

Vacuum leak? PCV and breather hoses connected tightly? Seems like it should be something basic. Checked timing belt alignment?

Just struts and strut spacers requires no mods to steering. Only if you put a cross member block kit on it will you need to lengthen the steering shaft.