Fairtax4me

The front seal is only $10 or $12 iirc. just replace while it's apart since it can't be done otherwise.

Just sounds like the solid "clack" I used to get out of my old ranger when I put it in drive. Only did it one in ten times, but had to do with driveshaft position more than anything else I could figure. Never shook or wobbled at speed. Replaced the front u joint and it never do it again. Inner cv joints can do this when the outer housing is worn. Grooves wear into the housing where the bearing normally rides. After a while the groove gets so deep the bearing starts to hang on it and will bind the axle. When it lets loose you get a big pop. Got 4wd? Remove the front axles and go for a spin? Alot of work but it will rule out axles if they aren't the cause.

3 failures of the same manner, nothing that really stands out mechanically that might cause it. Knowing there's play in the input shaft, that seems the most logical. Guess you get to take a transmission apart.

Sounds more like the diff grenaded. If it were a cv the boot would be all twisted around, grease probably slung everywhere.

Mostly stock with ground clearance? Forester fits that bill perfectly. Get a 98 cheap with a blown 25dohc and drop in a 2.2 from a 95 legacy. Its a straight drop-in swap. Put 1" Jackson rally spacers on the struts for that extra bit of lift and call it good. You'll get good ground clearance, room for common sized tires (less$$), and will have good gearing for the 2.2. Oh forgot to mention, set of Delta torque grind cams. They give a nice increase in bottom end power.

What exactly happened to the original clutch? Did it break the same way?

Assuming all of the big fuses in the under hood panel are fine (they can appear fine but you should remove them all one at a time and test them) the next step would be checking relays under the dash. The main relay gives power to pretty much everything when the key is turned. It's a big single pull double throw, will have 6 large wires going to it.

I'm not sold on it being caused by the MSB but I can't say for sure. If the pilot bearing is good any side to side movement of the input shaft will be minimal. It can still move fore/aft but the disc is designed to slip, so unless there is a groove worn into the input shaft or the disc doesn't slide across the splines easily, that shouldn't cause a problem. It's certainly caused by some sort of misalignment putting excessive side loading on the disc and overstressing the hub that holds the friction ring. Was the flywheel resurfaced /replaced at any point? Was it removed to replace oil seals? Any way it could have been put back on crooked?

How many miles? How does the engine sound while cranking? Normal chug chug chug, or does it sound more like one long smooth woosh? Did you check the fusible link in the under hood fuse panel?

It's not supposed to be doable on these, but maybe you're putting the disc in backwards? Most have "Flywheel side" printed or stamped on them, but some cheaper discs may not. How about some pictures of this broken hub?

It must have been making some noise. The mainshaft roller bearing wears out all the time on these and causes exactly as you describe. I just replaced one that was in the early stages of failure at about 190k miles. Have one starting to go in the transmission that's in my car now that's around 180k IIRC. Old transmission from the same car the MSB started rattling like a bad rod bearing at just over 190k, but it had been making noise since around 170k. Have a FWD trans with a completely shot MSB (input shaft can be slid forward/back far enough to engage gears) at 225k. There were big chunks in the oil on that one.

<~~~~ one more for good measure.

The second pic is the main ECU ground and needs to be grounded to the block. Doesn't really matter where. From the factory it is grounded either to the top of the intake near the ignition coil or to the lower rear side of the number 4 intake runner port. Battery ground (large cable that goes to the battery) connects to an L shaped bracket that is held on by the top bolt of the starter.

They're just pressed in like lug studs, but the top hats have to be removed before you can get the studs out. Not enough room between the top hat and spring perch.

Hell no! Do not get those! Look in the offroad section, there's is a whole thread with strut and spring combos that give X amount of lift. Most people go for Outback or Forester struts/springs and often put strut blocks on top to give more lift if they want it. Between struts, blocks, and tires, you can get 3-1/2 to 5 inches of lift with NO other modifications to the car.

As GD said, that looks like it will be inside the ring. Hold the new gasket over it and see how far it extends if any beyond the edge of the ring.

One fails the other will soon follow. They aren't that expensive, might as well do both.

Clean connections make a big difference. Cleaned the terminals on a buddy of mines work truck because he said it had been hard to start. Had to jump it a few times, and he was complaining that his boss wouldn't put a new battery in it. Popped the hood and the tops were clean between the terminals and posts was nothing but white/green crust. Brushed it all off and clamped it back down, it went from barely turning over to starting at the touch of the key, with nothing more than clean terminals.

I know the ones with Air struts were different. Btw the modification to the tower is to simply drill a hole in a different spot. It seems the older top hats had equal spacing between the bolts, and the newer ones the outer bolt is about 1/4" further out. It's a pretty simple fix and really shouldn't have any effect on the strength of the tower.

Seems kind of strange, but I can see how the design of the housing would allow that with just enough of a gap. Hopefully the pressure wasn't low at idle and causing any bearing damage. What's the difference in the STi pump?

BlueDriver for iPhone is downloadable through the iTunes App store. They have a website as well, http://www.Lemurmonitors.com

There's a pipe that runs down from the intake to the drivers cylinder head, and a port drilled out in the head for the EGR. Plug the port in the head and use your intake, it should work fine. Make sure the exhaust matches up (single vs dual port).

Gut says U joint. Could be a CV though.

The old ranger 4 bangers are easy, but they're gutless. I suppose the 6s are just as bad off for power. The biggest problem is the airbox for the HVAC is in the way and its really tight getting a socket on #3. Then your basically blind putting the plug back in because there's no way to even see the hole. It takes finesse for sure. The old loyales are awesome offroaders. Take a look in the old gen forum there's a huge picture thread. Lots of info about the ins and outs of those too.

I bet you were thinking of a Torino Gt, which could have had a 429 under the hood, making somewhere around 375 hp. It's like the difference between a Chevelle and a Chevette!