Fairtax4me

I believe you can fit a 205 width without rubbing the strut body. Not sure on height exactly. A 195/70 should fit just fine.

I missed this one somehow. Glad to hear its running well and a simple tune-up was all that was needed.

Crank the engine for 5 - 10 seconds then sniff around the tailpipe for the smell of raw gas. If you smell gas, then you're getting fuel. The next step is to figure out if you have spark. Pretty simple, pull a spark plug wire off the coil, crank the engine for a few seconds and watch for a light show. Easier to do at night. If you have both, then it's either not enough of one, or the timing is off.

You put it to good use in the lifted wheeler! I'm no help about the Air injector, first time i've ever heard of that system on these cars.

Low battery voltage can cause some screwy problems. When you say won't start, do you mean the it just clicks when you turn the key, or does the engine turn (chug chug chug) but won't fire? I don't think a faulty O2 should prevent the car from starting, but OBD1 is strange, the fact that you got a code from it at all is a miracle. :-p Need air fuel spark to get fire. Air is pretty easy, but the ECU controls the other two (fuel/spark) and is needs input from sensors to do it. So determine which one you do NOT have, and we can go from there.

Time for a beer! This typically being an age related issue, we can expect this to either be the one case we ever hear about broke tailgate wiring on these cars, or there will soon be a major flood of people complaining about their reverse lights not working. :-p

Well... shucks. I suppose you could pull the plugs and try to confirm. Did you try the combustion gas test again? Time for a 2.2 swap.

The TCU controls the TCC Lockup solenoid directly. There is no outside source. The fuse on the strut tower is for the AWD transfer clutch duty solenoid. Has nothing to do with the TCC. There can be several things wrong here, incorrect vehicle speed input to the TCU causing it to lockup the TCC early, Throttle position input, or more likely a bad wire connection between the trans harness connector and TCU, or a damaged wire inside the trans or poor ground connection, or a failing solenoid. Input power from the TCU to the lockup solenoid appears to be a Red/Yellow wire on pin 6 of the trans harness connector. The lockup solenoid is grounded to the transmission case. Is the transmission pan dented in any way? Look for marks that would indicate the ears of a jack head have been in contact with the pan. Any amount of weight placed on the transmission pan can cause damage to wires or solenoids inside the transmission.

Sometimes it says on them. A machinist should be able to look it up though. They will also be able to look up the amount of step the flywheel should have. Be sure to give them year and model info.

Doesn't matter which way the core gets hooked up, as fluid flows freely through the core at all times, but the hoses do somewhat reach only to the pipe they're supposed to connect to. If you hook one up wrong, and it's easy, the other will be a b o itch because of the way they're routed. I believe you have them hooked up correctly. The combustion gas testers seem to work the best when the engine is hot and bubbling, even though that's kind of the worst time to try and test them, that's when the most gases will be present. Have faith! This stuff can be frustrating but don't give up until the cows leave home... or something to that effect.

I'm scratching my head too. Wire diagram makes it look like they should be hot only in Start/On. But looking at it, the hazard light circuit is mixed into all of that as well, and THAT works without the key... It's possible I'm reading the diagram backwards, or just missing something, but I don't see a power source for any of that other than through the ignition switch. Page one http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/CadiLLacPimPin97/FSM%20screenshots/99FSMWDPG1.png Page two http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/CadiLLacPimPin97/FSM%20screenshots/99FSMWDPG2.png Page Three http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/CadiLLacPimPin97/FSM%20screenshots/99FSMWDPG3.png

The intake pictured is a hot air intake, despite what the description says. That open filter just pulls hot air out of the engine bay around it, which is going to decrease performance and fuel efficiency. Your stock airbox pulls air from just behind the passenger headlight (cool air enters from below the bumper then into the engine bay around the headlight housing), through a water separator in the passenger fender (away from heat sources), then into the stock air filter box under the hood. This is a very efficient setup which nearly guarantees you'll get as much cool air (as cool as outside air gets) as the engine can use at all times. The only way to make it "better", is to route the intake opening on the water separator box in such as way as to stay inside the fender, and close off the hole there that leads to the engine bay behind the headlight. If you take some of this stuff apart you'll see how it all works. Also, Oily air filters don't go over so well with these cars. The oil tends to collect on the MAF sensor and "numbs" the sensor, causing the engine to run rough and give poor fuel mileage and performance. Bottom line is, clean paper filter in the stock airbox. Exhaust can help with high end performance but you most often lose low end torque, so you actually end up using MORE throttle to get moving, which is where the most fuel is used to begin with. Do what you please, but Subaru did think about exactly what you're thinking when they designed these cars. Whats the way to get the best power, best efficiency, but overall best reliability out of the car, and they implemented design accordingly. The best "Mod" (and by far the cheapest) you can make is the "Driver mod". Change your mindset about driving, and how and when you use the amounts of throttle that you use. I'm not saying go out an hypermile the thing, but you can change alot by shifting at 3000 rpm instead of 4000 all the time. Shift sooner, and cruise at 65 instead of 75 or 80. Most of the time I cruise at no more than 60, usually 55, and I can easily do 30+ mpg with my 96 sedan on a long drive. I haven;t figured mileage with my lift and bigger tires yet, (haven't run through a full tank yet) but I'm still on track to get at least 24mpg mixed, compared to the average of 25mpg mixed I used to get without the lift.

You have to remove the whole knuckle from the car and have to press the hub and bearing out of the knuckle. Or you use a hub tamer to pull the bearing out, then press the new bearing in.

Fuse number 1 should only be hot with On or Start. Power for that along with everything here: Rear defogger timer AT shift lock control module Back-up light switch (MT) Inhibitor switch (AT) Hazard switch A/C switch Combination meter Mode control panel Rear defogger timer TCS off switch Blower motor relay Check connector Daytime running light control module Daytime running light relay FRESH/RECIRC actuator Hi-beam relay Keyless entry control module Power window and sunroof relay Seat belt timer Security control module Vehicle speed sensor (MT) Wiper deicer relay Wiper deicer timer Airbag control module Airbag control module Lighting switch Comes through the ignition switch. Some other things may be switched as well. Some fuses in the dash panel are also hot at all times.

Yeah the gasket fits around the edge of the thermostat.

I just did this. It's not too bad of a job but you need a HUGE puller or just take it to a trans shop and have them press it off and back on. I ended up using this setup, turning the forcing screw with a breaker bar, holding the puller still with a 3 foot pipe. And it barely got the thing loose. Once it cracked loose everything moved fairly easily, and the new bearing was easy to hammer on with the help of the old bearings inner race and a large socket. Had the shaft held in a vice with pieces of 2x4 on either side to protect the shaft. This was the reason for replacement. Sounded like a rod knock. The bearing should run about $50-60 at the dealer. IIRC the same bearing was used in the MT from '90 to 98 or 99, when they changed some things internally.

General rule for any turbo/SC is you need 10 HP for every 1 psi boost. To get just 5 psi, you would need a 50hp 12v DC electric motor, which doesn't exist.

Your antifreeze mix in the system is something like 70/30 coolant/water. Possibly as much as 75/25. Antifreeze doesn't dissipate heat well, that's why it has to be mixed with water. Too little water and the antifreeze will boil. Try one more time, drain that stuff out. Pour half a gallon of Antifreeze into two bottles (1/2 in each) fill the rest of the way with water for perfect 50/50 mix. Remove the upper radiator hose, fill the block FIRST with coolant with a funnel or through the hose. Quickly reinstall the upper hose and fill the radiator with the bleed plug open. Close the bleed plug and start the engine, top off if necessary, cap the radiator and let the engine warm up. Fill the reservoir to the max/ full line. After the engine reaches operating temp turn off and let it cool completely. Top off radiator if necessary. Also, if you don't have a Subaru thermostat in it get one.

I don't think you got enough coolant in the system. You should be able to pour in close to a gallon and a half on initial fill with an empty block. Fill the block first, then radiator. Torque sequence is to tighten all 90 degrees then tighten all 90 degrees again. You did do the second 90 degrees right?

The source of the smoke, is it at the front of the engine, or the rear? Not on these. The 05+ engines don't usually leak coolant, just oil. Subaru HGs almost never mix coolant and oil. Not unless you overheated the hell out of it already.

I'm taking my really bad one apart tomorrow if it doesn't rain. You'll get some carnage joy from that one I guarantee it!

Looks like it sprung a leak. :-p I always liked the floor jack approach with transmissions. It's just easier for me to hold the trans with one hand and raise it with the other. With it hung up the way you have it, I think you could lift the tail housing enough to slip the mount studs out of the cross member and just let it slide back? That might be how you did it. :-p Look at it this way, if it hadn't failed now, it would have just failed later. You know cars don't break when you have time to fix them!

At first glance it sounds like a bad ECU, but the gauge makes no sense. The ECT varies resistance with temperature, less resistance means higher temp right? (or is it the other way?) Either way, gauge wire is shorted? Possibly to the ECU reference wire? Why the fan is staying on with key off, fried ECU? I'd start pulling fuses one at a time to see what circuits the fan issue can be narrowed down to. Check for continuity between the ECU wiring and gauge wiring.

That is probably poor connections at the battery. Try cleaning the terminals, also check the ground connection on the block just above the starter, and make sure the positive is connected securely to the starter.

Don't you love it when a small project turns into a big one? Check the release lever for cracks. I hear that's common.