Fairtax4me

IIRC there are Chiltons and Haynes for that year but im pretty sure you can get the FSM for it from Busted Finger forums. http://bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=18 You'll get the hand of these pretty quick with how simple these are laid out. Plugs were a bit of a pain on the older engines but by 04 shouldn't be any harder than swapping plugs on a Ford or a Dodge (gotta be easier than my 85 Ranger).

Fiberglass and Nylon composite. They're actually very tough, and as Nipper said, weigh quite a bit less than an aluminum manifold, and cuts demand for aluminum. Go look under the hood of a Toyota, Nissan, Mercedes, or BWM, even Porsche for that matter. They all have them too. Ford and GM have used composite intakes for years, same with Dodge/Chyssler. Very common and it works quite well. I've seen a few of these sporting around. They look good (except for the ugly metallic light blue one) and they certainly don't look as big as the 2nd gen Legacy until you get up close. But it's the same old story. Remember the Camry? Used to be a small nearly compact car, now it's a tank, and the Corolla is bigger than the old Camry was. Hyundai Elantra/Sonata, same story. Subaru is just following the yellow brick road. Can't wait to see what they move in as the new compact compact. Think 4 door BRz.

Classic symptoms of a misfire. Often caused by old spark plugs and wires. Go get new NGK spark plugs (look in the owners manual and get the number they list or go to a dealer) and either NGK or Subaru OEM (from a dealer) spark plug wires. Any other brand will likely be a waste of your time and cause just as much or more trouble. The 2.5 is VERY picky about spark plug wires. When was the last time it got fuel and air filters? PCV valve? If it's been more than a year change those as well. Lots of parts stores (here in the U.S. anyway) will read OBD2 codes for free. Just aks at the counter. There are some cheap readers out there that can read and erase codes, but most of them just give you the code and you have to go look it up yourself. I use Canobd2.com since they have a HUGE list of manufacturer specific codes. I also own one of their scanners which has all the code definitions in it. They cost a little more than the HF $30 jobs though. There are also apps for iPhone/ Android that can read codes through the use of a Bluetooth transmitter that plugs into the OBD port. Costs about $40 for the transmitter and you can use the basic functions of the App for free. Have to wait for shipping to get it though.

You'll get the bare basics. RPM, ECT, TPS, MAP, MAF, O2 V, Calculated load, Fuel Trims, spark timing... that's about all the early OBD2 systems supported. There are other values that can be checked such as knock sensor input and certain emissions valves duty cycle if you have a program that can read straight from the ECU, but I don't think Scan gauge will do that. I could be wrong. How much is this thing? You can pick up an Equus Innova OBD2 scanner that reads live data, all the sensors mentioned above, and has built in OBD2 code definitions, and is updateable, and supports more manufacturer specific codes than pretty much any other readers on the market for around $140 from Amazon. If you have a smart phone, iPhone and Android platforms have OBD2 diagnostic Apps that can be downloaded and you buy a small Bluetooth transmitter that plugs into the OBD2 port. Then you can read/erase codes, view available live data and sensor outputs, freeze frames, and you can email snapshot or recorded live data to yourself, or anyone else for that matter, so it can be reviewed on a computer. Generally about $30 - 40 for the dohickie to plug into the car and you get the basic App for free. I bought the one for iPhone called BlueDriver, and the basic app is quite useful.You can read and erase DTCs, email them, and view some basic data. The whole program can be opened up for $50 IIRC, but you can also open up just one or two things at a time for only a few dollars.

Compression is probably fine. Fine for an engine with 360k anyway. Plugged cat you typically get a rotten egg smell. Engine doesn't make power at higher rpms or under heavy load because of excessive back pressure in the exhaust. It's unable to push out the exhaust fast enough to make room for fresh air/fuel to come in so power drops. The cat may also get very hot, and in some cases glow red / orange. There are a few tests that can be done to check for a plugged cat. A vacuum gauge attached to the engine will tell you if vacuum is dropping when the power loss occurs, which can be an indicator. Testing the back pressure of the exhaust is the best way but can be difficult without the right tools. You can also remove the cats and inspect them visually for obstruction. Do you have emissions testing in your area? A shop that does emissions generally will have the equipment to do a diagnostic on the cats without removing them. If you don't have emissions testing, you can gut them for a temporary solution, though in the end you probably should "replace" them. Other causes, as said before, clogged fuel and/or air filters. Power loss can also be caused by a dirty MAF sensor, bad knock sensor, bad throttle position sensor, low fuel pressure, jumped timing. The PCV valve can cause running issues if it gets clogged/ gummed up. Loose intake hoses, cracked or loose breather hoses (from the valve covers to the intake tube). Lots of things can cause power issues. Start with the simple stuff, give everything a good checking over and do some general tune-up stuff if it hasn't been done in a while. Plugs, wires, filters. Any filter more than a year old just needs to be changed anyway whether it helps or not.

I'll elaborate a bit more on my suggestion. Should have before but I was having a hard time sitting still. I had the exact same behavior from my 96 when I bought it. I was blessed with a Check Engine Light, being an OBDii car the diagnostics are a bit more sensitive when intermittent problems arise. I've also read of at least one other instance where intermittent stalling was caused by a bad MAF. The problem comes from broken solder connections where the pins connect to the PCB inside the housing. Most of the time the broken connection is still touching, but every now and then because of movement or vibration a small gap opens and cuts power or signal to the sensor. The ECU loses the signal from the MAF for a split second and flips out. When it loses the MAF signal it kills the engine. You can unplug the MAF and it will stall, but once restarted it will run or at least should run in a safe mode that will allow the car to be driven, though it may be rough and stumble, it will still run. You can do this as a test, if the engine runs without stalling for an extended period of time, then you can safely blame the MAF for the stalling problem.

When dealing with cars of this time period there is NO SUCH THING as a Rwd Subaru so just get that thought out of your head. It's either FWD or AWD. AWD will have a rear driveshaft, FWD does not. Automagic transmission AWD cars you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft and drive around no problem for eternity. This is quite often used to diagnose bad u joints as well as torque bind problems

Always keep in mind that parts marked with L or R will be referring to position based on sitting in the car. Are we to assume this fixed the problem and it now runs flawlessly?

MAF sensor.

I have to polish the headlights on my car about every 6 months. I just go at them with some PlastX on a rotary buffer with a polish wheel and they come out nice and shiny. I did a write-up with pics. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102339&highlight=Fairtax4me%27s+headlight+cleaning+thread And I just realized how old this thread is. :-p

Whenever I've changed axles there are usually one or two turns that are just a bit more than what can be done by hand, but easily doable with even a small ratchet. Once the axle nut is snug there is only about 1/8 to 1/4 turn to reach full torque. If the inner race preload hasn't been set (races pressed together) there could be several turns before the slack between them is taken out. This is why it's important to torque the axle nut with the wheel OFF the ground. If not done this way the bearing is pulled together while loaded and damage to the races or bearings may occur.

I'd have to guess a failed U joint or bad carrier bearing. Pretty easy to tell which if you take the driveshaft off. Put a catch pan under the trans end to catch any fluid that comes out.

Look great to me! Yeah those old seats do look a bit "worn". Are those brackets aluminum? I'd be kinda worried about making something like that from aluminum, unless its like 1/4' thick.

If your RPMs go up, but speed stays the same. It's the clutch. Otherwise, catalytic converter or fuel system. When was the last it had some quality time with new spark plugs and new filters?

These are nice looking bars for sure! I'd love one but I now have a 2" cross member drop which would make for some funny angling in the front and probably incorrect bolt hole locations. One concern I have with it is the spacers that mount it to the frame. I can see those bolts getting bent or sheared off if you hit something hard enough. A small bracket welded to the bar, something that wraps around the bar partially (Similar to what you have for the skid plate mounts on the Baja bar) then extending up to meet the frame, rather than using a spacer, would be tougher. Less side load stress on the bolts. Really tough would be bending that bar upward in the middle make that mount point flat on the frame across the whole length of the front. Then when the car lands full weight on a rock, the brackets don't get shoved up through the frame. Don't want to pick apart your design too much though. It's still a lot better than what some others come up with. And the cost is very reasonable to boot! All of the Legacy line has the brake and fuel lines run in through the firewall and inside the car along the drivers side rocker panel / floor pan. Keeps them away from rust and damage from using the car like it was meant to be.

Hey! I just had that same Idea! :-p Ford used some for years that were run off of the EECIV engine control system that would actually compensate for changes in idle speed and throttle position. Of course the ECU was controlling all of it, but it was a variable solenoid. You might be able to use a simple controller like an Arduino that could read throttle position temperature and engine speed and drive the solenoid based on inputs from the sensors already on the engine. You could even use it to control an idle air control valve. :-p

I believe all of the new manifolds are shorter because of the TGVs, and bolt pattern is different, but if an adapter could be made from aluminum or thin stainless that may help shave a few lbs. Just don't know how the newer intakes would work with the old 1.8 idle control valve setup. If done carefully I think you could shave the aluminum manifold down, then polish it for a nice finished look. Might mean sacrificing a manifold or two to find the limits though. I'm sure there are a few places on the block and heads that could be shaved down. valve covers have those big ridges and 16valve cast on the outside, those could go. Not a huge difference but if you find lots of little ways like that, they all add up in the end. Lightweight flywheel should be a must. The stockers are 23lb? Maybe more, I know I've seen 12lb versions. That's 20% of the way to your goal right there. Act offers a 9.6lb flywheel for certain engines, not sure how interchangeable they are but you ca do some digging about those. Seem to be only around $250 as well. Carillo makes lightweight rods for Wrx and STi blocks, maybe could save a few ounces there, but would cost $800. If you can get a set that fits a 1.8? :-p

97 -99 2.2 has rollers w/ SLA.

This is kinda what I was thinking. No telling how long it was sitting and condensation has a tendency to collect on metal parts over time. You did change the oil in the engine right? Did you notice if any water came out with the old stuff? Even when drained there is still a small amount of oil still in the bottom of the pan that could have been water contaminated. I wouldn't bother with retorquing, unless you have a very good feel for exactly how much torque is supposed to be on the head bolts.

Problem with the flexplate theory. If it were damaged badly enough to affect engagement of the transmission, the engine would not be able to start because the starter could not spin the crankshaft fast enough to overcome the compression in the cylinders. But the flexplate can be inspected through the access hole in the top of the bell housing to the right of the throttle body. You could even remove the bolts that hold it to the torque converter and see if it falls apart.

I wonder if you could do a timer / temperature controlled setup? Also, part of the cold idle programming is injecting more fuel, so you'll want a way to enrich the mixture slightly when the idle valve is open.

The screws have "security" Torx heads. Go to RadioShack and ask for a set of security bits. They also sell large kits at harbor freight and northern tool that have about 100 different bits of various types and sizes. http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-91310.html Can't help much for the heater core but you can get the FSM here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ 95 - 99 are basically the same, so any of those should at least help point you in the right direction.

If its truly FWD you can put it on a dolly, but I've always preferred to tow a real trailer with BRAKES, when pulling a car around. And not that you'll be doing much reversing with an RV, but backing up is impossible with a dolly.

Dunno what happened there. Felpro makes the HG for Subaru. If you look at them they even have the FHI logo stamped in them. Using a Subaru thermostat is pretty important on the EJ engines, they're not too forgiving with aftermarket t stats. I have close to 15k miles on a patched together in a hurry ej22 with unsurfaced heads and felpro gaskets. Never has even made it to the halfway on the temp guage. If it overheated bad enough though it could have warped the heads, but I've never heard of one mixing coolant and oil. Is there actually water in the crankcase or was there just some vapor coming from the filler tube? When the oil is hot there will be some vapor in the crankcase but it's just oil vapor that the PCV system draws out. Try changing the t stat and refilling the cooling system and properly bleeding it of air and see what happens.

Ej 22 was started in late 89 for 90 production year Legacy, but with the right sensors and wire harness any 90 - 98 ej22 can be used. Year of the engine is not too important though. ECU for a 2.5 will run a 2.2 just fine and doesn't need to be changed, there is hardly any difference between the two. Cel on for multiple misfires and poor running can be any number of things. Timing is one that plenty of people get wrong, and it's relatively easy to check. Three 10mm bolts hold each cover on over the cam sprockets, remove the covers and you can line up the timing marks to see if the cams are out of sync. You can check crank timing at TDC if you can find the notch on the pulley, but it's often very difficult to locate. You'll likely have to remove the crankshaft pulley and remove the center cover to check if the cams are timed properly with the crankshaft. Also be sure to check for any vacuum leaks. There are lots of hoses associated with the EGR that can harden and break, and there are a few that to to the passenger strut tower. Also check the PCV hoses from the block to the intake on the passenger side of the throttle body, and breather hoses from each of the valve covers to the air box on the intake. Check for loose clamps on intake tube at the throttle body and air box as well.