Fairtax4me

The rack can move a bit if the bushings are shot. 1/4 turn of the steering wheel would move the rack about a half inch maybe? Don't think the bushings will allow that much movement if they're gone but you never know. This could be either front or rear suspension problem so check the whole thing over with a fine tooth comb. Make sure the bolts through the steering shaft U joint are tight too. Did you remove or loosen anything suspension related in order to remove the transmission?

What color smoke? Any bubbles in the coolant? Still losing coolant? Spark plug condition. How do the plugs look? Wet? Dry? Black? White? Green? Oily? It sounds like you removed the injectors. Remove the park plugs and let the cylinders dry out for a day before trying to start it. Also get new O-rings for the injectors before putting them back in. All vacuum hoses connected? Is there gas in the Fuel Pressure Regulator hose?

Nothing to do with the torque converter. That would vibrate with engine speed, not wheel speed, and would not change when taking your foot off the gas. This is drivetrain related. Bad U joint, bad inner CV axle, bad carrier bearing or carrier bushing.

Friction modifier? That brings to mind stuff like Slip Lock or Posi-Trac Limites slip addtives. DO NOT use Slip Lock or other such friction additives designed for clutch type limited slip differentials. Those make it EASIER for the clutches to SLIP. Additives of that type will ruin an automatic transmission in no time. You could try an additive such as Lucas Transmission Fix, or K&W Trans-X Stop Slip, or other type of fluid that is designed to prevent slipping. But..... Since the transmission engages properly after restarting the engine it certainly seems like an electrical problem and a fluid additive will likely not help. First things first, change the fluid entirely. Any fluid that meets Dexron III spec will work. I usually buy the store brand Multi-Vehicle fluid or Dex/Merc mix whichever is cheaper. Drain and refill 3 times (roughly 4 quarts will drain each time) with a short drive in between. Some people go for 20 - 30 miles. I drive for about 3 minutes. I've even just idled the engine for a minute or two and shifted through all the gears before draining/filling again. The point is the same, get most of the old fluid out, which can't be done by draining just once.

There are a few out there. The Yellow Box is a simple to use unit with a few switches that you set a certain way to alter the output. Has a chart with settings and good instructions for how to use it. http://www.yellr.com/yb_home.htm There is also one called TrueSpeed which looks a bit more difficult to use IMO, and they advertise it only for trucks, but for the most part speed sensors work the same way regardless of what they're on. http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp Yellow Box is only about $100, the TrueSpeed is $200+. There are others out there as well. These are just the few that I know of off hand.

Rolling forward a little after being shifted to Park is quite normal for automatic transmissions of any kind. Info here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission11.htm Clunking and hard shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 are fairly normal for the 4EAT. A fluid change may help, but probably won't, it's just how these are. Find a good mechanic for your friend to take her car to. Don't let her take it back to that guy and get robbed.

Or the pilot bearing. If the noise is present with the clutch pedal held about halfway then it's likely the TOB.

I'd hardly say relocating the sensor would make it ineffective. All the sensor does is listen for a sound within a certain frequency range, and creates a small voltage pulse as the sensor element reacts to the vibration created by the sound. It's basically a microphone. But it's listening to the block instead of open air. Sound travels much faster and much more efficiently through metal than it does through air. The sound that detonation (spark knock) makes even when it can't be heard by our ears, will still resonate through the entire structure of the block, and thus will be picked up by the sensor regardless of it's position. If the sound of the knock is so small that a change in position of the sensor affects it's ability to react to that knock, the ECU would not pay attention to that knock anyway. On a forced induction engine this may be a bit more critical, as even small knocks can mean catastrophic failure under high boost conditions. But for a normally aspirated engine it's not going to make a difference. Also, if the sensor is replaced with a resistor, then you have absolutely NO reaction to knock at all. It will continue to knock and the ECU will NOT react to correct the knock because it doesn't know it's happening. With a relocated sensor, you still have the sensor. So when/if the engine begins to knock the ECU WILL react and will cut timing advance to try to stop it.

Nice! What kind of screwdriver are you using for the starter switch? I find the old big Craftsman drivers without the shiny coating get the show going with the least amount of sparks. But when you really want to F with someone you have to get one of the cheapo new Stanley drivers with the cheap chrome coating. The stuff practically burns itself! :-p

Park brake shoes need to be adjusted. It can be done with a brake spoon (curved blade type tool used to turn the adjuster without removing the rotor). Or adjust the shoes outward a little at a time while removing/replacing the rotor several times until you get a nice tight fit.

The drier is too cheap not to replace if you have the system depressurized. Look on the label under the hood, should be on top of the header panel by the hood latch, that will tell you how much refrigerant to put in the system. Unless it has been altered in some way from stock form, filling with the recommended volume of refrigerant will get it working as it is designed to.

TCU should be easy to swap. Its under the dash somewhere I think. Either that or under the carpet on the passenger floor/ foot panel.

The old washer is a common rubber lined steel washer. They tend to fall apart when over-tightened. The rubber separates from the steel. The fiber washer will probably just fall apart. I'd go buy a copper washer (will deform to seal), or the proper crush washer.

You should be ale to use something like that. You could also just go buy some large washers from the hardware store and just take the grommets out entirely.

A 12 point socket can usually be pounded over the locks to remove them. You then have to clamp the socket in a vice in order to pound the lock out of the socket though. I had to do that to all 20 lug nuts on my old car. They were stainless sleeved and the steel lug nuts had rusted and expanded under the sleeves so the proper size lug wrench wouldn't fit on the lugs, but the next size up would just round off the corners and spin. Had to hammer the proper size socket on and hammer the lug nuts out of the socket. These use Metric 12mm x 1.5 thread lug nuts, very common size on Japanese and European cars. You can buy lug nuts from most auto parts stores for a few dollars a piece.

There is no code for the PCV system. Post the exact code please, otherwise there's no way to give accurate information.

90-95 mt starters will interchange doesn't matter what it came from. There were differences in shape but they still fit and work the same. AT & MT starters do not interchange. 2.2 and 2.5 starters do not interchange afaik. 1.8 or 2.2 MT starter from 90- 98 should work.

Depends on the problem. What's the problem?

When I worked for Mercedes we often wouldn't get pricing info on new models until after we had demos on the lot. It was a regular thing to put Monroney labels on cars we had had for a month or more. And we didn't know the price of the car until we got the label.

Looks like normal play to me. FSM specifies 1/4" of free play at the release lever. The side to side play is normal for the design of the fork and TOB. They are not a solid unit, the TOB is only somewhat loosely attached to the release fork by two small clips that look like paper clips. As they get old they may stretch and get very loose and the release fork can wobble around so much you could swear it wasn't attached to anything at all.

Sitting in traffic, lose engine power, rattle sounds, engine stalls. The only thing missing here to add up to a major overheat is some steam from under the hood, but you might not have that if there is no coolant in the engine. Check the coolant level.

Bleeding the hydraulic system is difficult at best, most who have experience with it here recommend compressing the slave cylinder completely with a c clamp while bleeding the lines. The speedometer gears can't be swapped without opening the case. Much cheaper to buy a speedometer calibration box that will alter the output signal from the sensor.

Yeah it's pretty common to relocate the knock sensor, I haven't heard of any ill effects from doing so.

Well the first thing I would do is put some bushings on the linkage and see if that helps with the popping out of gear. Make sure the trans mount is in good shape as well. If it doesn't help it's tear down time. Likely the mainshaft bearing is worn out. Check the bustedfingermotorsports.com forums for service manual downloads. I don't have the link to their download page but I know they have Legacy and Impreza FSMs. The trans is the same other than a few gear ratios, so you could also use a Legacy FSM from here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ For the transmission section. Also you can search here for Gloyales thread on how to separate the case to get to the guts. I just did a rear bearing replacement and can offer a few tips if you need any help.

The air filter? :-p If you're (un)lucky you have ABS and that's the ABS pump module. There could also be a charcoal canister for the evap emissions system there. And the horn.