Fairtax4me

Knock sensor sounds likely. Or the MAF sensor needs to be cleaned. Seafoam in the intake can do wonders for problem like this as well.

Probably $15 or under for just a blade key. My local dealer is $3 for a key cut, plus $3 for the key. But I think it's more for a VIN code cut. BUT... they're called stealerships for a reason... Call and ask if they can do it and what it costs.

On a manual transmission car the brake switch will not matter. There is a hitch in the key stroke that requires you to push the key IN to get it to turn back all the way to the lock position. If the key is incorrect, it may be that the key is hitting the lock cover and cant go in far enough to get past the hitch. I've seen that happen before on a Honda, and the magic trick was to push the lock cylinder inward with a screwdriver while turning the key back. It was made especially difficult in that case, because the owner had twisted the key and broken it off inside the lock cylinder. It then had to be fished out with very skinny needle nose pliers.

Dealers can usually cut a new key based on the VIN. You'll probably have to show them License and Registration to prove it's your car, but they usually cut them while you wait. Not like some other makers that have to order keys and you wait a day or more to get it. Dealers cut keys are usually pretty cheap too.

Sounds like the fusible link fried.

Knock sensor is a very common failure and is a well covered topic here. The sensors most common cause for failure is due to corrosion. The code can also be set if the wiring to the sensor is damaged. An engine condition will not cause a knock sensor code to be set. Failure of the sensor or wiring to it is the only reason a code wil be set. The burning smell is not an indicator of a bad sensor, more than likely that is oil or some other fluid, axle grease maybe, burning off of the exhaust and is unrelated. Replace the knock sensor and inspect the wiring to it for damage. eBay is a good source for inexpensive sensors, one member just posted that he got one for less than $15 shipped and it worked great.

Yes you will get a P0420 code for cat efficiency. You can sometimes get around that by using a spark plug anti-fouler on the rear O2 sensor.

Overfilling typically causes cavitation which makes bubbles in the fluid and can lead to slipping. A small amount, such as < one pint, will not make a huge difference.

Spitfire the difference between flat tappet and roller rocker cams is very visible with the valve cover removed. The rollers can easily be seen. http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/IMG_3506.jpg Tappets are not easily visible. http://www.sdsefi.com/ej22rockers.jpg Tappet cams have wider lobes and have oil holes in the face of the lobe to lubricate the tappet as the cam spins. Roller cams do not have holes. As far as I know the switch from tappets to rollers was around 94-95. I know the 95 EJ22 has them. The rollers offer a reduction in friction. Making it easier for the engine to spin, and consequently making power more efficiently. I don't know if there is a huge performance gain from swapping tappets for rollers, I assume there is a somewhat noticeable difference since the regular engine builders on this forum prefer to use roller rocker setups. Both types of cam will fit in any phase 1 2.2 head. Both tappet and roller rocker assemblies have the same bolt on design, so either will fit any phase 1 head. BUT the rockers MUST be matched the type of cam they were designed for. Roller rockers do not work with tappet cams because of differences in lobe height and angle. Tappet rockers can not be used with roller cams because there is no oil feed for the lobes and the cams would be destroyed in short order. Roller rockers must be used with roller cams. Tappet rockers must be used with tappet cams.

Thinking Knock Sensor as well. Front Oxygen Sensor can also cause intermittent trouble and not set codes.

Check the U joints for play. More than likely the carrier bearing itself is OK. Unless the bushing is ripped or otherwise obviously physically damaged it's probably OK.

Dang! I saw "Redneck" and thought there might be duct tape involved! Yeah that one sensor can/does make quite a difference when it goes bad. It can cause trouble and not trip the CEL, or it can trip the CEL without ever causing trouble, but eventually it will cause problems because the ECU relies very heavily on input from the knock sensor. You have the muffler squeak too! I loved that sound on my wagon. I had the same pitch on 3 different volume levels depending on throttle and engine speed.

The main separation year is 99. Anything 90 - 98 is a safe bet will swap just fine. Anything 99 or newer will likely swap just fine, but going from pre 99 to post 99 you run into problems. Differences in electronics, wire harnesses, different bellhousing bolt patterns, etc. A 90 - 99 trans will physically bolt to a 2000 engine just fine, it's just the other particulars that will make or break it. I'd stick to 99+ for a transmission.

I think your girlfriend was bored.... Sounds good though, what is the rest of the system comprised of?

Typically once torque bind has started it doesn't go away. Sometimes fluid changes help, but the causes vary, and there are a few fixes depending on the cause. There are a few threads on how to pull TCU codes. I think the method differs from older to newer models.

That would be Marshall I believe.

Turbo Maintenance is pretty similar across the board. Find an owners manual for a US/EU model WRX or Legacy Turbo car of the same era. But basically, do oil changes sooner rather than later. Turbos put a lot more stress on oil than a regular engine will. The oil breaks down faster, which means it can't lubricate the engine properly. The extra power also puts added strain on driveline components (transmission and differential) which means the oils in those should be changed more frequently as well. That's really the most important thing on a turbo car, keeping up with fluid changes.

I think mine has about that much play in the rubber bushing, It's pretty soft and you can move it quite a bit with little real force. But you could have damaged the bearing or, I'd bet you more than likely damaged a U joint. Either way, you'll need a whole prop shaft, as neither the carrier or any of the U-joints are replaceable. It's also possible that the transmission and/or motor mounts were damaged if the driveshaft got jammed forward into the tailhousing of the trans. I don't know how far the diff carrier brace can move, but if it moved far enough forward to completely dislodge the rear bushings from the cross member then it certainly moved enough to take the slack (which is only like 1/2") out of the slip section of the prop shaft where it slides into the transmission. It would jam, and force the transmission and engine forward. Then if you drove it that way, the U joints would certainly be worn from the stress put on them. It also probably damaged the output shaft seal on the transmission.

Not a nightmare but you do need a fair amount of room under the car to maneuver. The filler tube goes under the frame then fits to a section of rubber hose just above the rear crossmember. The ring clamp there is accessible but you'll want a hose pick to get the rubber section loose from the metal tube. With the tube loosened from the body it can be pulled out of the rubber hose and then lowered out of the wheel well.

Found it here. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/16102AA080/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_2/ The part number you listed opposedforces shows as the Pressure sources switching solenoid for the MAP sensor. #5 here. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_2/ But. that's not to say they didn't use the same solenoid twice or even three times on the same car. I've tried to look some of these up before, and the names Subaru has for these various solenoids in their catalogs are very confusing. The only way to really know for sure which one you need is to look at it, because even the parts reps often can't find the right ones. SP4Y is useful for pictures if nothing else. 16102AA080 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=15215 14774AA341 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=6331 14774AA371 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=6370 14774AA271 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=6373 42084FA090 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=12553 42084FA120 http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=12557 More goodies here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_piping/illustration_6/

If it is the purge control solenoid under the intake manifold it's 16102AA080 This is the valve under the #3 intake runner on the engine. There are several other valves back by the fuel tank. These are all difficult to identify due to the way they are labeled.

Pull the trans codes to find out why the AT temp light is blinking. AT codes must be pulled manually, You cannot read AT codes with an OBD2 scanner. 4 new tires or 4 matching used with the same tread depth will help, but may not fix the TB problem. Likely the Duty C solenoid is bad, or there is some bad wiring to it.

Too much gas is usually black smoke. White is either coolant or a large amount of oil. PCV valve stuck open? Are the breather and PCV hoses attached properly? How is the oil level? Have you done either compression or leakdown test?

You never know how crazy those people across the street are. Sorry to hear of your loss. Drink for good memories!

A few ideas. Call your local waste disposal authority. Your local Fire Department may know where such substances can be disposed of. Check your city/county's website for their environmental protection/management department. If there isn't information on their website, find a phone number and call them. If there is no info online, call City Hall or the county main office and ask. I had the same problem here. I figured there must be some local government entity that would have information about the location of a proper disposal facility for used antifreeze and household toxic waste. And through my county's website I found out the Rivanna Solid Waste Authority has a collection center at their main transfer station about 5 minutes out of town, and they take used antifreeze and motor oil for free. Other things such as paint or household cleaners/ poisons they will take on certain days throughout the year. Last time I had paint to get rid of, I poured some on a big sheet of cardboard (placed in such a way that it won't all just run off) and let it to dry in the sun. 30 minutes was all it took. Then poured more on top of that, repeated the process until I had dried a half gallon of paint into about 1/4" thick sheet on top of the cardboard. When I was satisfied that it was dry, I folded it up and tossed it in the garbage can along with the empty paint can.