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Everything posted by Fairtax4me
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BG44k fuel system and top end cleaner. Pricy, but works like a charm.
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how do you people clean car parts at home?
Fairtax4me replied to soobie_newbie67's topic in Shop Talk
Simple green is corrosive to aluminum. USAF did some tests years ago, and consequently prohibited the use of simple green. Purple power I'm not sure about, but I've used it many times on aluminum parts (degreasing the outside of engines, transmissions) and have never noticed any ill effects. I have seen plenty of other degreasers dull/etch aluminum surfaces almost immediately. -
OK. That might rule out anything having to do with the LPG system... maybe. On a side note? Can you take some pictures of the LPG setup under the hood? I have a long standing goal of one day converting my carburetted truck to run Propane or LPG. If there is any part of that system connected to the intake manifold or intake pipe/airbox, maybe give that a wiggle and make sure it's on there tight as well. I don't recall if that year has a MAF sensor, but if there is any air entering the intake box after the MAF sensor it will throw off the ECUs air density calculations, and that can cause it to run rough.
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Look like Toyota of Honda wires to me. Do they have a part number on the box they came in? Subaru wires in 97 I think they had 2 different types for coil packs for that year, but they were still mounted in the same place. All 4 wires should be the same or close to the same length. And the spark plug ends should be the same. NGK 97 GT 2.5 wire set at rockauto.com. That one is for the female end type coil. The other wire style is for the male end type coil. But the plug end is the same.
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Lambda or Lambda-sonde is an oxygen sensor. If it does this when the engine is cold the O2 sensor is not the culprit, although it probably won't hurt to replace it at 245k km. I think you have... A vacuum leak. There should be a diagram on the bottom side of the hood detailing the vacuum hose routing for the engine. Follow all of those hoses (there are only a handful) and make sure each one is connected securely, free of cracks, splits, and general dry-rot. Did this problem start immediately after the LPG conversion?
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Rust, maybe. He lives in AK, don't know if they salt the roads like it's going out of style the way they do here. But suspension parts will be well worn, wheel bearings, U joints, engine might be worn out, transmission, anything that moves basically, will almost certainly be ready for overhaul or replacement by 250k miles. So you either dump a ton of money into it on parts, sell it to someone else who wants to, or scrap it.
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O2 sensor don't work when it's cold. Has to warm to about 600°F before it has any effect on fuel delivery. Have you checked fuel pressure when cranking when it does this? A bad crank sensor won't make it sputter slowly to life. That will get you either all or nothing. You got a fuel issue. This is OBD1 we're talking about here. The car could be on fire and it wouldn't throw a code.
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I thought OZ Racing when I first saw them, but the similar styles I can find aren't quite the same, and don't come in a 15" size. They're 15x7". Feel fairly light weight. Stock sticker on each with "5M1-570485100", (which yields a big fat 0 results searching on Google) "Made in UK" Iso9001 cert., and a picture of the British Flag. Any ideas?
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People forget that these have a differential stuffed underneath the gear case, and diffs are much more susceptible to damage from old gear oil. But differential failure in the MT is much less common than the main shaft roller bearing failure, and the guaranteed worn out synchros. It won't hurt, but it probably won't help much either. You get 100k more miles out of it and by then the rest of the car will be worn out just as much and ready for the scrap yard, or to become someones weekend off-road basher.
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Do this. Drive down a back road somewhere not to far from home. Something not busy with traffic, where you can run 40-45mph safely. In 5th gear, at about 40-45mph, push in the clutch, push and hold the gas pedal to the floor, let it rev up to about 5000 rpm then drop the clutch, Right foot still plastered to the floor like your life depends on it. Heres what should happen. It should jump, kick and lurch around, but engine speed should immediately drop back to running rpm for that gear at that speed, roughly 2000 rpm. If engine speed does NOT immediately drop, it slowly rides back down over the course of several seconds, or stays at 5000 rpm or goes higher, and it makes the same screaming noise, the clutch is bad. The other good clutch test, which is more for older stuff with metal bumpers, is to pull up to a big tree and set the parking brake. Rev the engine and drop the clutch in 4th gear. Car stalls right away, clutch is good. It keeps running, clutch is bad.
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Every parts listing I have seen says the 2.5 and 2.2 clutch disc are the same size. I haven't seen dimensions for the pressure plate, other than a few that list clamping force, which is higher for the 2.5 plate. The dual mass flywheel is quite different, and so is the pull type pressure plate used with it. That setup is larger, but only available on the STI as far as I know.
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I've always had the opposite. Clutch slips in higher gears under acceleration, or if you go fast enough, just trying to fight the wind, before it will slip in lower gears. I wanna say clutch. If you suspect accessory belts, remove them and drive the car around the block. It won't hurt anything, unless your battery is dead, or you aren't strong enough to turn the steering wheel without power steering.
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Made a nice pick on CL today. Saw an add for Subaru parts and sent an email. Ladies Ex had split for Cali and left some junk behind taking up space in her garage. She wanted it gone. Four stock struts, four stock springs, TMIC, and cat pipe all from an 06 or 07 WRX. Four 15x7 after market aluminum wheels, a set of plastic wheel ramps, a 15qt drain pan, and a Duralast roller creeper. All for the price of..... $100 Gonna put some pics up later. I'd like to try to identify the maker of the wheels. Stickers on them just say "Made in UK", and have a part number. No manufacturers markings anywhere that I can see. One of the struts was blown, (reason for replacement I bet) But the other 3 appear to be in good working order. And since I have no real use for them they'll probably be in the Classified section before long. The cat pipe and intercooler are in good shape, except it would seem a mouse used them for storage and left some seed husks and acorn shells inside them. At least on the Cat it was on the OUT end of the pipe. Not sure how cleanable the IC is. Ideas?
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Corrosion is inevitable. Corrosion on the mounting bolt shouldn't be the cause of a misfire, but clean it again just for giggles. And coating it with anti corrosive paste or spray should help keep corrosion to a minimum. Improper plug gap or a weak spark from a failing coil pack could be possible too. A lean mixture creating spark knock would cause the knock sensor to retard ignition timing. Turbo engines are very easily damaged by spark knock so it's not hard to imagine the knock sensor could retard spark so far to cause misfire. A bad O2 sensor could cause misfires as well. What are your ideas for the fuel mileage? What mileage is on the car?